MTM shirts in Vancouver, BC?

[cmrocks]

I was hoping that someone would be able to help me out here. I'm looking to have a white linen shirt made for me for this summer. I've shopped around and haven't been able to find anything I like. Someone recommended to me that I have a shirt made for me instead. I live near Vancouver, BC so I would have the shirt made there. Does anyone know where I could go to have that done?

Also, will they make different styles of shirts? I'm a college student so I'm not really looking for a dress shirt. I want a shirt that ends slightly below my belt line, is slim fitting and is made from plain white linen with no pockets or anything. I'm hoping something like this is possible to have made.

One more thing, what would the estimated price for a shirt like this be? I'm willing to spend the money for a nice shirt but I would like to keep the price under $200 if possible.

 

[tattersall]

Paging member Roger... he's been testing the bespoke shirt waters in Vanc.

 

[houserichichi]

Harry Rosen should do a white linen MTM, though the exact specs of the fit I couldn't say. Their shirts tend to range around 160 and up for MTM.

 

[Roger]

You called? MTM shirts in Vancouver, eh? Well, Tattersall is right; I have been researching this lately. I'll give you a list with some annotation.

Chevalier Creations. I've had one shirt made by Gabriel (the shirtmaker and owner)--my one and only bespoke shirt. I think the workmanship is pretty good, but his prices may be higher than your range. I'd imagine he'd charge somewhat more than $200 for a good linen shirt. Gabriel has re-located his business in the past 4 months from his original location on Seymour St. to somewhere else, but I don't know where that is. I'd imagine he'd keep his old phone number (for convenience of customers): 604-687-8428.

Let me now give you four shirtmakers I've talked with, and in the case of the third and fourth, seen their operations. On the basis of what I know at this point, I think I'd rank them in this order:

1. Minichiello - 127 W. Esplanade, North Vancouver; 604-985-9222. Paul Minichiello built up a good reputation for tailoring (suits, jackets, shirts) over a long period. He now is in semi-retirement, but the business is being continued by his daughter, Julie. I think I'll have my next shirt done by them; Julie seems great--very knowledgeable and approachable. I'd guess that they could do a good linen shirt for $200 or very close to it.

2. Andy Yuen. Andy is a fairly young guy starting out in the bespoke clothing business in Vancouver. He lives in Kitsilano, and his phone number is: 604-731-8080. I've spoken to Andy, and have heard good things about his work (he doesn't do the sewing, but organizes everything else and does the fitting). Haven't checked out his fabrics yet. Should be able to do this for around $200 I think.

3. Angelo Papa. 1501 Commercial Drive; 604-253-7633. Operates out of a hole in the wall on Commercial Drive. Store lacks ambience, we might say, but his shirts look OK, and he does have a decent fabric selection. I'm pretty sure that he could do a shirt for you for around $200.

4. Steven Chan. 3015 Cambie Street; 604-874-8616. Definitely not first-class, but seems competent, and could, I think, make a linen shirt for you for probably somewhat less than $200.

In addition, I've just recently visited Madison Men's Wear, 1050 W. Pender in the Bentall Building; 604-683-2122. They offer MTM shirts, but they just do the measuring, with the manufacture taking place in the East (probably Toronto). The most reasonably-priced of their lines are shirts made by the Royal Shirt Co., and I expect that a nice linen shirt would probably cost more than $200--more like $275+, I'd think. Another well-known source of good MTM shirts in Vancouver is the Zegna shop in Pacific Centre. You will get a good MTM shirt there, but won't get it for $200. I'd think more like $300+ for a nice linen shirt. And certainly Houserichichi's suggestion of Harry Rosen is a good one. I think in Harry Rosen's case, the shirts are made in the East (they might even use Royal Shirt Co. as Madison do), and I think I'd be surprised if they could do what you want for $200 (although I could be wrong about this).

Two other points: (a) It's hard to distinguish between true bespoke and MTM when it comes to what we might term "custom" shirt. If the shirtmaker (the "chemisier") creates a unique pattern for you based on your measurements and preferences, it is bespoke. If s/he takes your measurements and then simply goes with an existing pattern (properly scaled for your measurements), it is MTM. I suspect that much of what is described as bespoke is actually MTM (Tattersall twigged me to this). Although bespoke is the more desirable in the minds of most, MTM is probably more than good enough for most men who want a good fit, but don't have a lot of advanced ideas about style features. (b) There are dozens of shirtmakers in Vancouver. Most are pretty basic and make cheap shirts. I dropped into the shop of one the other day near the corner of Burrard and 8th. The shirtmaker, a woman, knew nothing about different grades of cotton or of the better mills, and was churning out shirts for around $80. She was using 2-ply 100s for most of this, as far as I could tell.

My recommendation would be to first talk to Julie Minichiello and see what she can do for you. If that doesn't work out for some reason, call Andy Yuen, and, after that, Angelo Papa. I think that one of these will pan out for you.

Best of luck and please keep us informed of your adventures in the wonderful (and sometimes confusing!) world of MTM or bespoke shirts!

 

[cmrocks]

Roger, thank you so much!

I will give Julie and Andy a call first thing in the morning tomorrow and see what they both have to say. I'll report back for anyone else who is interested.

 

[catscratchclub]

Ducati, please update? Have you made a decision?

 

[oirvine]

Has anyone heard anything about Steve Samson? Their website is http://www.stevesamson.org. They currently have have MTM shirts on sale for $79 to $95, which is quite a steal assuming they are okay quality.

Thanks

Orion Irvine

 

[Otterageous]

I have 5 beautiful made in Italy by Zanella and Gianfranco Irace of Italy linen shirts in a size XL which measures 17 x 36. all are pristine. what's your size?

 

[Otterageous]

I have 5 beautirful linen shirts by Lorenzini and one by Gianfranco irace of Italy.

 

[Siwash]

I've just picked up another 3 shirts from Angelo, I've been quite busy with him the last 18 months or so, I adore the shirts. $170-180 takes about 3 weeks.

His english isn't that great so be patient...I have been and I am very happy with the results.

Cheers,

Morgan

 

[Caexars]

Has anyone heard anything about Steve Samson? Their website is http://www.stevesamson.org. They currently have have MTM shirts on sale for $79 to $95, which is quite a steal assuming they are okay quality. Thanks Orion Irvine I'm having a pair of denim trousesrs made by him, cost me $190 or so. Not happy with the results, would not recommend him from my experience thus far. Had increasing trouble with communication. I know it's not MTM shirts, but will keep you posted. Still waiting to hear back from him to see if construction issues can be resolved.

 

[rkw5000]

I have used Minichiello in North Van and am happy with the product. However, you may want to pick up some MOP buttons on the forum or online as this was the only area where the shirts was lacking.

I have done Zegna and Isaia MTM through Harry Rosen and Holt's but the price will be well north of $200. Having said that, I did 2 Isaia's this spring and the price was less (like $100 less) than most of Holt's Isaia OTR offerings. They use some nice Thomas Mahon fabrics if you want to spend $300 - $600 on a shirt and wait 6-9 weeks.

 

[Doc4]

The only MTM shirts I've had made for me were by Matz Wozny in 1998. These were wing-collar dress shirts (M-W does a lot of work making court wear for lawyers and judges) but as I recall they offered services for making "regular-people" businsee attire as well, including shirts.

This may be of interest. I have no idea how they stack up to the others mentioned.

 

[Roger]

Originally Posted by Doc4

The only MTM shirts I've had made for me were by Matz Wozny in 1998. These were wing-collar dress shirts (M-W does a lot of work making court wear for lawyers and judges) but as I recall they offered services for making "regular-people" businsee attire as well, including shirts.

This may be of interest. I have no idea how they stack up to the others mentioned.
Interesting, Doc4. I considered Matz Wozny years ago, but for MTM trousers, not shirts. I decided to go with Minichiello for trousers too, and have been happy with the ones they've made me.

My post from two years ago is in this thread, and I can give you an update. I've now had about 7 or 8 dress shirts (no work or casual ones) done by Minichiello's--all very well-done. I haven't been back to Gabriel at Chevalier Creations. Gabriel is a pretty good shirtmaker and tailor, I think, but his prices are too high for me. With Minichiello's, their basic making price is, I believe, $155. To this you must add the cost of the fabric. RKW5000 is right in suggesting that you provide the buttons--unless these don't matter to you. For me, getting a really well-fitting high-quality dress shirt was important, and so I picked up some really thick, top-quality MOP buttons online and have supplied these. Minichiello's does have lots of fabrics available in their books (both Silver and Gold Thomas Mason, I think, plus lots of others), but I opted to pick up my own cotton and got lucky with Alumo. I've bought quite a bit of their Soyella cotton (170s), and have been able to get 170s shirts with great MOP buttons for just under $300 through Minichiello's (everything included). My recollection of Gabriel at Chevalier Creations is that anything approaching 160s (with cheaper shell buttons) would have cost me around $400. If you don't want to splurge on cotton, though, and maybe need the shirts more for work or non-dressy occasions, you could get a very nice shirt from Minichiello's for somewhere around $200, I imagine. One source of good cotton that would permit that would be Acorn fabrics.

However, note that Siwash has had good results from Angelo Papa.

If anyone does want to try Minichiello's, get in touch with Julie Minichiello, who has assumed the mantle of head honcho since her father, Paul (a longtime figure on the Vancouver tailoring scene) became ill and has retired.

 

[JeffsWood]

Originally Posted by oirvine

Has anyone heard anything about Steve Samson? Their website is http://www.stevesamson.org. They currently have have MTM shirts on sale for $79 to $95, which is quite a steal assuming they are okay quality.

Thanks

Orion Irvine

I have three Samson Shirts. They are good but not great with the last being okay. He sends them to be made somewhere else. I paid aournd $130 for each as I choose some nicer fabrics. Once of my shirts was "on the house" as it was very delayed. No plans to return there.