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MTM shirt critique and fit advice

throwingfits

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I've never owned a shirt that fit well. I've tried MTM from a variety of places like Brooks Brothers, Mohans (NYC), etc. and now I'm giving Indochino a shot. The shirt is a better fit than most of the other MTM places have been able to achieve after two or three attempts, but it still needs help!

There are a number of issues, but the main issue (I think) is that there is pulling at the front of shoulder (I think the armhole is adequately sized, but the fabric is tight at the front of my shoulder at what I would call the front of the armhole where the seam descends into my armpit). There is also bunching of fabric that happens from the front of my armpits up around the back of my neck (like the straps of a shoulder holster), especially when an arm is raised. Also, I think there is not enough fabric in the back and perhaps a bit too much in the front/chest as the back feels tight when I raise an arm.














FWIW, here are the current measurements:
NECK 18.5"
LENGTH 32.75"
CHEST 44.5"
STOMACH 40"
SHOULDER 21"
SLEEVE LENGTH 28.25"
BICEP 16.5"

The positioning of the armhole just feels really off and I am not sure what measurements to tweak to correct this and the bunching around the neck. The first shirt had the same issues and adding an inch to the shoulder width and sleeve diameter (on the advice of a local tailor I don't trust) didn't do much to resolve the issue. It seems to me the position of the armhole is off, but I don't know how to change it.

Any advice?
 

pvrhye

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The armhole is low because you're wearing too big a shirt. I'm guessing your have a thick necklike me. It's not a good state to be buying shirts in. There's some cheap MTM shirt outfits though that you should consider.
 

Shirtmaven

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You have sloping sholders with a right low. i do not think indochino can account for shoulder slopes. no way to fix this. this needs to be dealt with in the cutting. it is an easy cutting alteration no clue as to which online service deal with this fit issue.
 

throwingfits

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Thank you for the reply. I've only gone online after receiving equally poor results from every shirtmaker I've visited in person. I'm in Dallas now and the options I've found are extremely limited. (I've given BB, Q Shirtmakers and J Hilburn multiple shots at it with no luck). I really don't want to spend more than $200 per shirt. Again, thank you for your comments.
 

either/or

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-Been looking for a thread like this. There's some info to be had here, but it's "modern tailor" specific. Also, there are a lot of pages.
Still, now I know what to expect when I receive my first online-mtm-shirt in a few days. I took body-measurements...
 

Beatlegeuse

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Originally Posted by either/or
-Been looking for a thread like this.

There's some info to be had here, but it's "modern tailor" specific. Also, there are a lot of pages.


Still, now I know what to expect when I receive my first online-mtm-shirt in a few days. I took body-measurements...


I think you might be disappointed in your first shirt from MT. I haven't heard of one person yet that had a positive experience with using body measurements, you really should have used shirt measurements instead. BTW, here's the official MT thread....read through this and you will see that every success story was the result of using shirt measurements:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=193399
 

either/or

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Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse
I think you might be disappointed in your first shirt from MT.
I didn't order from modern tailor, but from tailor store. But (having read the entire MT thread) I have a strong feeling the same applies to them - or any online-mtm for that matter. hence the
Anyway, its just part of the learning curve I guess. I figured I might had to go through some trial-and-error to get it right, so that's ok. Thanks for the link on the official MT thread, also I agree on measuring a well-fitting shirt seems to be the way to go. There are a couple of good instructions buried in the other MT thread on how to adjust existing (non-fitting) shirts, I think I will give those a try if the first one doesn't come out right.
 

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