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MTM and Bespoke makers in NYC?

Daniel Hakimi

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Hi all. I'm putting together a list of MTM and Bespoke makers in NYC. I've been collecting names for a while, but I put my thoughts together for a recent reddit thread, and decided to formalize it as an article. Buuuut there's no point in half-assing an article like this -- if I'm going to put together a repository of MTM and Bespoke options, I want it to be thorough and accurate.

One thing I need help with is my list of bespoke tailors -- I don't know nearly enough, and Reddit really just isn't the place to go asking about bespoke tailors.

So... I need to ask Styleforum for help. I know self-promotion is frowned upon here, but I can't really ask you for practical help without linking to the draft preview on my website. So... What do you guys think so far? Who am I missing? Do I need to fix any prices? Anything else worth noting?
 

breakaway01

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Some others I've run across -- but no personal experience:

No Man Walks Alone (Sartoria Carrara MTM)
Thom Sweeney (MTM)

Sartoria Vestrucci (bespoke)
Eric Jensen/Sartoria Gallo (bespoke)
David Reeves (bespoke)
Joseph Genuardi (bespoke)
Manolo Costa (bespoke)
Len Logsdail (bespoke)
Franco Ercole (bespoke and MTM)
 

Daniel Hakimi

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Some others I've run across -- but no personal experience:

No Man Walks Alone (Sartoria Carrara MTM)
Thom Sweeney (MTM)

Sartoria Vestrucci (bespoke)
Eric Jensen/Sartoria Gallo (bespoke)
David Reeves (bespoke)
Joseph Genuardi (bespoke)
Manolo Costa (bespoke)
Len Logsdail (bespoke)
Franco Ercole (bespoke and MTM)
Well that's very helpful. I thought of NMWA, but I guess I forgot to include it. Do you know, roughly, what the starting price points are here?
 

maxalex

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Are you taking into account the traveling European tailors who come to NY?
 

Crispyj

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Steed Bespoke Tailors visit NYC often.
 

Daniel Hakimi

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Are you taking into account the traveling European tailors who come to NY?
It would take an eternity to list them all, but I did mention, generally, that trunk shows regularly come through NYC. If there are any real standouts -- somebody my readers need to know about -- I'm open to a mention. I like the Anthology and knew their price offhand, that's why I mentioned them.
 

maxalex

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It would take an eternity to list them all, but I did mention, generally, that trunk shows regularly come through NYC. If there are any real standouts -- somebody my readers need to know about -- I'm open to a mention. I like the Anthology and knew their price offhand, that's why I mentioned them.
Got it. I don’t personally know much about it as I live in Italy (former New Yorker) but I imagine guys looking for bespoke in NY would be interested. I do know that my usual tailor in Rome feels it’s not cost effective to go to NY unless you’re charging a buttload like the big names, which he doesn’t. That wad pre-Covid, now they can’t go at all. Good luck with your project.
 

dieworkwear

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The traveling options are often better than the local options. I think it might be more useful to give people a guide on how to select a tailor and give a narrow list of options, rather than a directory.
 

Daniel Hakimi

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The traveling options are often better than the local options. I think it might be more useful to give people a guide on how to select a tailor and give a narrow list of options, rather than a directory.
That's fair, but I still think the directory is useful and I happen to have *most of it compiled already. Meanwhile, I'm barely qualified to talk about different house cuts and all that. I might write that guide a few years down the line, we'll see.

*most of what I'm reasonably likely to compile any time soon.
 
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Daniel Hakimi

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The traveling options are often better than the local options. I think it might be more useful to give people a guide on how to select a tailor and give a narrow list of options, rather than a directory.
Sorry, just getting back to this and trying to wrap it up together, and keeping your other point in mind... are there any standout traveling tailors that you care to point out? I do feel the need to list more than one (I only have The Anthology so far).
 

dieworkwear

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Sorry, just getting back to this and trying to wrap it up together, and keeping your other point in mind... are there any standout traveling tailors that you care to point out? I do feel the need to list more than one (I only have The Anthology so far).
Many of the major tailoring houses in Britain, Italy, and Hong Kong visit New York City, so it's mostly a matter of what style of tailoring you like and what's your budget. If you run through all the big names on Savile Row, they visit NYC. Rubinacci also visits NYC. So does WW Chan.

Simon at Permanent Style used to run a trunk show calendar on his website, where you could drop down a menu and choose any city in the world, and then see which traveling tailors are visiting on what dates. Since travel is limited at the moment, trunk shows are mostly at a standstill. I don't know if you can go back in that calendar's archive to see who visited NYC in the past, but if you can, it will give you a fuller list.

Some of the tailors I've used visit NYC: Anderson & Sheppard, Steed, Sartoria Solito, I Sarti Italani, and Napoli Su Misura.

I recommend Steed, Solito, and I Sarti Italiani the most. Steed is run by Edwin DeBoise, who used to be the head cutter at Anderson & Sheppard. The house style is "English drape," which means it has a fuller, rounded chest and relatively soft shoulder (relative to Huntsman, anyway).

I Sarti Italiani is a Sicilian tailoring company. They mostly do slim, Italian suits, but Peter (UrbanComposition on this forum) has been working with them to develop a style that I think is more amendable to US customers. It's a fuller chest, slightly extended shoulder, and slightly more comfortable fit. I find it to be a good halfway point between my Steed coats and the slim stuff I get from Neapolitan tailors.

Solito is the slimmest of the three tailoring houses mentioned. Neapolitan tailoring house with all the hallmarks of tailoring from that region: soft, natural shouldered, extended front dart, etc. Since they put such little padding in the shoulder, you can't extend the shoulder as much as you can through Steed or I Sarti.
 

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