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MTM advice needed (southwick vs hickey freeman vs (maybe) samuelsohn)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by notfortheweak, Jul 19, 2011.

  1. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior Member

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    The Southwick and H-F are about the same quality. The H-F being MTM wil be full canvas, but still machine made while the Southwick will be half-canvas but have more handwork than the HF.
    If you are looking for a modern style suit, then the Southwick Lawrence model will be great and you will be happy. Samuelsohn is better than either one, but the price reflects the difference.
    Congrats!
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2011


  2. notfortheweak

    notfortheweak Active Member

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    So, after a revisit to Nordstrom and Andover Shop tonight, I've decided to go with Andover Shop/Southwick, since there are more fabrics and I felt like the man I spoke to at Andover Shop had a much better sense about what to do to make a suit look just right on me.

    And now my thoughts turn to fabrics. I had been thinking a simple solid navy, around 8.5 or 9 oz, since I'd like this suit to be wearable year round and because I think with the addition of a vest, I don't want to go too heavy. While I was at Andover Shop, a navy birds-eye caught my attention, though, and I'm toying with that idea, although I don't know if birds-eye is appropriately dressy enough for a wedding suit or not. Once again, opinions are quite welcome.

    Thanks!
     


  3. comrade

    comrade Distinguished Member

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    Good man!
    I do not have have any tailored clothing from the Andover Shop,
    just sweaters and the like. I've been there, however and love
    the Ivy League natural shoulder focus, something that HF has
    lost over the years.. Go with the birdseye!!. My favorite suit in the last 20 years
    was a Birdseye from Chipp, now called (SF- affiliate) Winston Tailors.
    Birdseye, nailhead, small herringbone, etc. adds texture to an otherwise
    very plain formal suit. Get side vents too. Congratulations on tying the knot.
     


  4. notfortheweak

    notfortheweak Active Member

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    Does a birdseye present any challenge as far as matching a tie, either in terms of pattern or texture? It seems like it would be more a matter of texture, but I'm not sure if my instincts are right on that.
     


  5. southbound35

    southbound35 Senior Member

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    I agree and think birdseye, with soft shoulder and side vents, would be an excellent choice.

    I wear my charcoal birdseye in exactly the same way I would a solid charcoal. I don't think such a subtle pattern presents any challenge as far as matching a tie. I'd say your instincts are right. Hopefully, this bump might elicit others' opinions.
     


  6. The Louche

    The Louche Distinguished Member

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    +1. My birdseye is a favorite. It works the same way as a solid counterpart, but it's a lot more interesting. ALWAYS gets compliments.
     


  7. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior Member

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    I'm doing an entire wedding party with charcoal birdseye suits from Oxxford, white shirts and pink woven ties. Groom bought these as gifts for his 4 groomsmen....nice!
     


  8. Jack Ross

    Jack Ross Member

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    Go to a store that sells Southwick or Hickey Freeman (or even Samuelsohn if you want to pay an extra couple of hundred dollars) MTM. Not Nordstrom. Their Samuelsohn OTR suits are terrible! But, their MTM is definitely good...even better than good, and they seem to have picked up on that and have raised the price of their MTM suits accordingly.
    So, I can get the same fitting, fabric, persnickety snooty requirements that I want in a MTM suit from Southwick while saving a couple of hundred dollars and I don't have to wait for a one in a blue moon trunk show (although Southwick does haveMTM trunk shows. HF is Southwick under a different label made across town in Chicago from what I understood my SA to tell me. HF is more for the older gentlemen.
     


  9. Nick de Silva

    Nick de Silva New Member

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    Samuelsohn has been the biggest purchasing disappointment of my life. Circus clown fitting coats and trousers when I had MTM done at a few large. If you absolutely, positively have to have a MTM navy blue suit for your wedding have it done at Brooks Brothers 1800 lines. Not that expensive and will last a life time.
     


  10. Nick de Silva

    Nick de Silva New Member

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    Hickey Freeman, Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers 1818 line are all part of the Southwick American monopoly on American clothing, which is not a bad idea, because foreign governments are dumping tons of cash into their fashion houses to keep them afloat. This is why you are seeing a large drop in the price of Loro Piana in Southwick, HF, BB 1818, Polo Purple/Black label this year.
    I would not say that Hickey Freeman is for the "older man"...it is for the more conservative styled man. (Have you ever been in the barbershop waiting for your barber and they have a copy of GQ and you pick it up and the cover reads "SPRING SUMMER FASHION SPREAD", and you turn to those pages, and you think, oh nuts...they've gone back to Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars look...on every page. GQ should fire everyone of their fashion reporters and find people who cover "real conservative" clothing. Not this crazy, zoot-suit large stripes, weird double breasted junk. The only ones who are going to put that on are the ones who did not get the memo that Andy Warhol died, The Factory is closed, and Biancca Jagger is a grandmother.
     


  11. jefferyd

    jefferyd Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Or maybe it's because the Euro has dropped from $1.34 to $1.07 over the last two years.

    Wow, there's a whole lot of misinformation in this thread...
     


  12. Nick de Sylva

    Nick de Sylva Member

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    You might not have gotten the word, but Hickey-Freeman starting in Fall 2015 and thereafter MTM suits are fully canvassed (and have been for some time), their fabric stock is all Loro Piana and about 15% Zegna (a little bit more expensive). Southwick is really for younger men. Hickey-Freeman for men over 45 that wish to look conservatively dapper. If your local sales representative/tailoring measurement specialist is good, you will get a suit back that is more than made to measure and more bespoke.

    For a summer Loro Piana 2 pc, custom made, MTM, Loro Piana suit, expect to pay between $2700-$2800, for a Zegna fabric add about $250-$300 more. Their pants are half lined to the knee, surgeon cuffs, can get notched lapels, button choice, lining choice, etc. I spent about $20K on Samuesohn suits back in 2013 and that was the biggest waste of money in my life. They cut the suits and sportcoats wrong and had to send them back and when the came back they just looked like OTR with a choice of a different fabric swatch, which the sales rep did not get right and I ended up with two sport coats and two pairs of pants which their was basically no difference between and they tried to say it was my fault.
    I had been buying Southwick and I am pleased with them. However, they forgot to tell my sales rep that they did not have enough fabric to cut a pair of pants for a winter pair of pants so I am ending up with a 220g Navy instead of Pearl gray cashmere suit. 220g should be sufficient for the semi-tropics, and Super140 Loro Piana and the Super150 from Zegna I got from Southwick felt like air in the summer. I love them.
     


  13. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Hey Jeffery, you work at HF, correct? What changes have you made to the fits of their suits? How's the construction? The new fully canvassed models look nice.
     


  14. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    :brick:
     


  15. jefferyd

    jefferyd Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I did some work with HF back when they belonged to HMX group (they were then sold to Samuelsohn, the company at which I started my career in the ready-made industry). I will be joining HF/Samuelsohn on a permanent basis in February so I can give a better report at that time.
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2015


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