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Mr. Ned – a jacket

chorse123

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I stopped by Mr. Ned today to get measured for a jacket. I thought I would try Varham, as what I want is hard to find off the rack, and I'm not ready to place an order with a bespoke tailor. Curiosity was certainly part of my decision as well - I want to see what they can do, and how the jacket will fit. If it works, I'll have a decent and affordable resource for tailored clothes as I want them right in my neighborhood.

Also appealing is that they are cheap for CMT, as I can source material from Tip Top. This jacket is being made out of a wool/kid mohair blend from Woodhouse that I picked up today in Brooklyn. It is remarkably porous stuff, probably 10-11oz and the color is a nice medium blue, a little brighter than navy. Really beautiful cloth. I'm having Varham make it into a partially lined single breasted notch lapel jacket with three open patch pockets and side vents. I'll supply horn buttons.

I was wearing a slim Hickey Freeman for Bergdorf jacket which is fast becoming a favorite, and pointed Varham in that direction for the silhouette. I think it is something he should be able to handle, and in talking about the jacket, he nailed what was right and what was wrong with the fit. First fitting in a few weeks. He said a minimum of two before pick-up, but possibly more, as many as it takes.

To be continued...
 

edmorel

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Originally Posted by chorse123
I stopped by Mr. Ned today to get measured for a jacket. I thought I would try Varham, as what I want is hard to find off the rack, and I'm not ready to place an order with a bespoke tailor. Curiosity was certainly part of my decision as well - I want to see what they can do, and how the jacket will fit. If it works, I'll have a decent and affordable resource for tailored clothes as I want them right in my neighborhood.

Also appealing is that they are cheap for CMT, as I can source material from Tip Top. This jacket is being made out of a wool/kid mohair blend from Woodhouse that I picked up today in Brooklyn. It is remarkably porous stuff, probably 10-11oz and the color is a nice medium blue, a little brighter than navy. Really beautiful cloth. I'm having Varham make it into a partially lined single breasted notch lapel jacket with three open patch pockets and side vents. I'll supply horn buttons.

I was wearing a slim Hickey Freeman for Bergdorf jacket which is fast becoming a favorite, and pointed Varham in that direction for the silhouette. I think it is something he should be able to handle, and in talking about the jacket, he nailed what was right and what was wrong with the fit. First fitting in a few weeks. He said a minimum of two before pick-up, but possibly more, as many as it takes.

To be continued...



That's great. I'd like to see the jacket when it's done and your thoughts on the fit. I'd like to get something pretty much like what you are getting.
 

Patrick Bateman

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chorse, hope this works out for you. looking forward to seeing the results.
 

chorse123

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I'll post pics when I have it. Knowing all the caveats for Mr. Ned, I think I've gone in with the right expectations. I hope for marginally better fit than RTW, decent but unspectacular construction. If he gets those, or does better, I'll be happy. Especially when I figure the full price for the material would approach my total cost, and spending the same on RTW would probably get me worse quality, given how often navy jackets go on sale.
 

aportnoy

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That fabric sounds quite similar to a fabric that Manton had made into a suit by Raphael. if it's the same, it's wonderful stuff! Good luck Jamison.
 

Jolly Green

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Good luck with that jacket. I'm a couple weeks ahead of you in the process. I'm having my first "real suit" made by him. I just went in for the final fitting/alterations and was pretty happy with the way most of it came out.

Being my first time, I decided to go with the house style 2button and limit my imputs. I really didn't know what I wanted anyway. He recommended a light-medium grey nailhead. I think it will look fine.

Pics for your joint amusment and critique when they become available in a week or so.

Cheers,
D
 

Manton

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Originally Posted by aportnoy
That fabric sounds quite similar to a fabric that Manton had made into a suit by Raphael. if it's the same, it's wonderful stuff!
Can't be the same. I know who got the last length of mine. Plus, it was not marked as Woodehouse on the selvage. Mine was really a suiting, not a jacketing.

Chorse: Woodehouse is killer cloth. Enjoy!
 

chorse123

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Originally Posted by Manton
Can't be the same. I know who got the last length of mine. Plus, it was not marked as Woodehouse on the selvage. Mine was really a suiting, not a jacketing.

Woodehouse is killer cloth. Enjoy!


For what it's worth, mine is not marked Woodhouse either, but George said it was from them.
 

dusty

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I think Vahram is Wes Anderson's guy.
 

chorse123

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I had my first fitting today. Just the front and back pinned loosely together at the shoulders, and then corrected, but it looks like it's going to be good - slim, armholes are a good height, waist height and length look good. The three open patch pockets have been placed and look very cool, and I'm digging the material. Not as dark as most "blazers." Will be fun in the summer. He's moving it along quickly so I can take it on a vacation in November. Got to go get buttons. If it turns out, this could be dangerous to the wallet. Anyone want to buy some Incotex?
 

Cantabrigian

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Thank you for the updates, Chorse. After getting a jacket from LS whose fit can really be described as awful, I had pretty much written off the discount MTM guys but I will be excited to see how your commission turns out and am keeping an open mind about Mr Ned.
 

chorse123

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I picked up the jacket a few weeks ago. They really turned it around quickly, as I wanted to take it with me to Buenos Aires. I'll post a more detailed review with pictures when I get the time (getting slammed with work/holidays/flu), probably after Christmas. In short, I'm pleased. The jacket is good but not great, though I didn't expect it to be great for the price. It will now be my default summer jacket, so definitely a good value.
 

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