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Most amazing shoe ever made - WOW!

Son Of Saphir

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Does this maker sell RTW?

Yes.

One thing I did work out was how they did the braided stitching on the sole. A true functioning braiding of the sole would be impossible to do, and the hint is given here if you look at the photo here carefully. Notice how the right shoe has the yellow stitching through the slipsole, but it has no braiding on the top, yet when you look at the left photo you see braiding in the open channel of the outsole. Wei obviously is doing it the same way you do things with braided norvegese, he links the braided stitching in with the functional construction stitch (slipsole to outsole), hence why it looks different on the outsole compared to the slipsole. It makes perfect sense because it couldn't be done any other way.

norvegese - WM1978 Beijing 7.jpg



Same goes with the braided stitch on the uppers of norvegese shoes. The braided stitch never goes into the leather, it sits on the surface while being secured under the inseaming stitch. If you look carefully you can see it here. It is not difficult to do, it just takes time. Wei does it the same way with the braided outsole.
Branchini 7.JPG


Branchini also does it with his double braided uppers, but the middle thread for the upper braid would be purely decorative because it would be impossible to have two inseaming stitches. Sure, the upper braid would pierce the upper and damage it for decorative purposes, but numerous makers do it with fake norvegese, so it can't be too bad. Probably doesn't affect the integrity of the shoe much. None-the-less, Branchini's double braid would leave two rows of holes in the upper.

Branchini's double braided norvegese. See the two levels of braids.
Branchini double braided.jpg


Branchini's fake norvegese. A fairstitch constructed shoe with a braided bonwelt that has been stuck between the upper and the slipsole.
Branchini - fake norvegese - blake.jpg


A Testoni's fake norvegese. It is so done so badly that it gives itself away. The middle thread that holds the braid is not even an inseaming thread (notice how it raises up near the heel because the maker couldn't even stitch straight,so obviously not going into any insole). Also notice the inturned upper. The point is....the middle thread also pierces the upper all the way around, so it can't be too harmful. Ebay sells lots of fake norvegese shoes as norvegese. :fu:
Norvegese fake - A Testoni.jpg



I like to think about these things. These little mysteries tell a big story behind how the shoes are made. They all use little tricks and gimmicks, and it is fun to try and work out how they do it. Hope this isn't too boring.
 
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Son Of Saphir

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Here is another man that is starting to make fancy things like some of the above makers, his name is Khish Ken. Wasn't he the man who won the world championships of shoe making?? I don't read shoe blogs or watch Kirby's videos much so l am not sure.

Here is Ken doing the braided stitch. See how he does the single stitch on it's own to start out. Later he adds the braiding. See, Ken is becoming a fancy pants too. You never know what tricks he might pull out of his hat next. One to watch. I've been following him right from the start.
Khish Ken braided 1.jpg


Another fancy one by Ken. All hand stitched uppers. Would take forever and be so easy to make a mess of it.
Khish Ken braided 3.jpg


Braided aprons by Ken
Khish Ken braided 2.jpg
 
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DorianGreen

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Here is another man that is starting to make fancy things like some of the above makers, his name is Khish Ken. Wasn't he the man who won the world championships of shoe making?? I don't read shoe blogs or watch Kirby's videos much so l am not sure.

Here is Ken doing the braided stitch. See how he does the single stitch on it's own to start out. Later he adds the braiding. See, Ken is becoming a fancy pants too. You never know what tricks he might pull out of his hat next. One to watch. I've been following him right from the start.
View attachment 2307443

Another fancy one by Ken. All hand stitched uppers. Would take forever and be so easy to make a mess of it.
View attachment 2307445

Braided aprons by Ken
View attachment 2307447

Again, amazing skills and craftsmanship, but nothing I would like to have on my shoes, with the exception, perhaps, of the braided apron.
 

charlesford786

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These are some very intricate and perfectionist type of stitching, but these are gone out of fashion like a while ago. Are these still sold in any shops like do many people buy them or just on order-based production?
 

LA Guy

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I think those examples are more about shoes as objects, art, and craft for the sake of craft rather than wearability or having a language.

The western boots have a long history of the hand tooling and filigree so the language makes sense. It carries over to belts, saddles, silver smiths with buckles and firearms. It makes them wearable art and keeping craft alive.

Here’s a well used saddle from the 40s
View attachment 2307051 View attachment 2307053
And one from the 80s featuring handmade silver hardware
View attachment 2307055
And one from about 10 years ago featuring filigree as well as basket weave stamping and gold hardware.
View attachment 2307057
Such an incredible craft. There is a guy in Portland who does both hand stamping and hand tooling from whom I’ve gotten a few cardholder wallets and most recently, a belt, which I had to negotiate with him to get it done at a 1” belt with a hand forged buckle. Really cool craft and very nice to see it being practiced all over the world.
 

epsilon22

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Such an incredible craft. There is a guy in Portland who does both hand stamping and hand tooling from whom I’ve gotten a few cardholder wallets and most recently, a belt, which I had to negotiate with him to get it done at a 1” belt with a hand forged buckle. Really cool craft and very nice to see it being practiced all over the world.
Oh, would love to see pics if you have them.
 

Son Of Saphir

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There also seems to be a trend with seemless wholecuts being made by numerous makers now. Wei makes them (previous posts here) while Scafora has now listed them on his site for $$$$

Am a really big fan of the braided stitching on the soles, especially on the Lattanzi derby that was previously posted, and also a fan of the really high quality vintage antiquing that only a few of the top makers can do. So many makers do antiquing that looks cheap, but not Lattanzi or Branchini, they can do a colouring that makes the shoes look old, they are real artists. If only these didn't have such a narrow toe.

Stefano Branchini 1I - porridge jaw shoos.jpeg
 

DorianGreen

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There also seems to be a trend with seemless wholecuts being made by numerous makers now. Wei makes them (previous posts here) while Scafora has now listed them on his site for $$$$

Am a really big fan of the braided stitching on the soles, especially on the Lattanzi derby that was previously posted, and also a fan of the really high quality vintage antiquing that only a few of the top makers can do. So many makers do antiquing that looks cheap, but not Lattanzi or Branchini, they can do a colouring that makes the shoes look old, they are real artists. If only these didn't have such a narrow toe.

View attachment 2308395

Never been a fan of these fancy patinas. I also dislike such a heavily squared sole front, contrasting with the last shape. The work looks also a bit coarse.

The Scafora are more subdued and interesting in my eyes, albeit not my style.
 

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