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Morning Dress

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BrummellMcQueen, Jun 11, 2016.

  1. BrummellMcQueen

    BrummellMcQueen New Member

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    Hello everyone,

    I am young guy living in a western European country where morning dress is still worn at certain weddings. A few members of my close family are getting married soon including someone in my immediate family. I will thus be required to wear a morning coat, which delights me. For another wedding in my immediate family a few years back, I rented one, but this time I decided to buy one even though I may still be growing a few cm's. I would like this forum's nice people's advice on a few things.

    I would like to know:

    1) Your opinion on the colour of the coat: dark grey or black.

    Note: If grey you can skip to 3) because I will buy it in my country.


    2) Your opinion on where to buy one, which will probably be in London since it has more options than my home town or country.

    I have already found a few nice RTW examples in my price range:
    http://favourbrook.com/shop/product/Favourbrook-Morning-Coat-Black-Bedford-FBMJ140b/
    http://www.gievesandhawkes.com/tailoring/formalwear/black-herringbone-morningcoat-7173.html
    http://shop.edeandravenscroft.com/collections/formal-dress/products/morning-coat-81308

    I have also found a reasonable "bespoke" option and would like to know what you think the company:
    http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/product/formalwear/

    3) Your opinion on tasteful waistcoat / necktie combinations

    I have decided to be more conservative with the waistcoat. DB, most likely grey or buff but would like to know what ties would be young and appropriate enough for me to wear.


    4) Which of these accessories can I incorporate in my outfit without looking ridiculous:

    a) A pocket watch
    b) A grey top hat
    c) An umbrella for a late summer wedding
    d) A slipped waistcoat

    The items of my outfit I am already decided on are a white, french cuffed shirt, braces and black cap toe balmorals.

    Thanks in advance,

    A.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016


  2. GBR

    GBR Distinguished Member

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    The tail coat must be black, any other is solely for going to the Races - The Royal Enclosure next week is a good example for you. The trousers should be one of the customary grey striped cloths which go so well in a morning dress.

    The top hat for a wedding should be black, grey again for the races. How many times have you seen a member of the Royal Family or other senior members of Government etc wearing a grey top hat at the Abbey or St Pauls? None, so don't start.

    That your family maintains this tradition is good so just gently conform with the required standard out of respect for the happy couple if nothing else.

    C&D is a reasonable middle of the road place to go to - there are few instances of bad experiences with them, but you should make sure that they no how to cut and fit such a suit - very different from a typical lounge suit. The words that they have on their website are correct are would bode well.

    Of the others, Ede and Ravenscroft example is surprisingly dreadful, one of the worst it has been my misfortune to see. It utterly lacks finesse or elegance. The Gieves and Hawkes offering is not much better. The third web site won't open quickly enough and so I have ignored it. C & D it should be, it is also likely to fit and should be capable of being let out (by them) as you age as a morning dress is something which should last for years - and even be passed down to your own son.

    A pocket watch is fine and a BLACK furled umbrella is OK if the weather threatens to be inclement, forget the rest - quite vulgar for a wedding. A cravat or a formal silver/grey tie - see Hober's offerings for examples.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016


  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Distinguished Member

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    Hi,

    I suggest you also read has other threads within this forum include the wedding attire thread, the state of morning attire thread, and the word wedding ties within the this thread.

    1-The only real option for morning coat should be black colour or at the very least, Oxford grey, which is an almost black grey. In grey you have the option to wear a full morning suit (coat, trousers and waistcoat in the same cloth).

    2- I would consider looking at eBay for a vintage example as modern option in RTW are really not cut properly (I have one that I use once or twice a year at formal British races). Otherwise, yes do explore an affordable bespoke option, but do ask to see previous examples as not everyone will be able to cut it properly.

    3 - try looking for a DB waistcoat with a dipped centre front, which are admittedly rare nowadays. In terms of ties, obvious choices are what we know as wedding ties but I would also consider maroon and burgundy ties with buff waistcoats.

    4- a top hat is a must in my opinion, and if you can, I would recommend a rabbit fur grey one. If you have a pocket watch and chain, again do wear it, but I would not buy one just for this. If you are going bespoke, the slipped waistcoat would be an option, otherwise I would not consider it as it really needs to be done properly to look good.

    If it rains do carry an umbrella, but if it is meant as an accessory to replace a men walking stick, then do not do it, unless it is your wedding.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2016


  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Distinguished Member

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    As GBR posted at the same time, I do agree that a black silk top hat look better but the black wool felt version you can easily find today, looks really bad so I would rather do the grey rabbit fur version, which is easly acceptable in the rest of Europe (we are not talking of UK standard only here). Some fur melusine can look good, but some are poorly done and too fluffy
     


  5. BrummellMcQueen

    BrummellMcQueen New Member

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    Thanks Marco!

    What do you mean by dipped centre front?

    A.
     


  6. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Distinguished Member

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    This is an extreme example, better ones are a tad less prounanced and have rounder point:

    [​IMG]

    Whilst the below is a very soft version :
    [​IMG]

    Ideal
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2016


  7. BrummellMcQueen

    BrummellMcQueen New Member

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    Thank you!

    A.
     


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