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More tuxedo questions

Tyto

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Sorry, one more (germane) question: would a deep burgundy, low-contrast foulard pocket square be considered over the top (or at least against the rules), as well?

A friend of mine recently wore one to a formal gathering: he wore it in a straight square fold, with only about 1/4" showing, and I thought it looked rather sharp, but I prefer to follow the rules in black tie, so....
 

Manton

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was it the Duke of Kent who first wore that style?
I don't think anyone can prove that he first wore it, but he certainly popularized it.
 

Millerp

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Sorry, one more (germane) question: would a deep burgundy, low-contrast foulard pocket square be considered over the top (or at least against the rules), as well?
Dean Martin went for that look. He was probably breaking the rules, but it worked for him.
 

STYLESTUDENT

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[Dean Martin went for that look. Â He was probably breaking the rules, but it worked for him.
He broke all the rules and just did not care-read Nick Tosches' entertaining biography. I'd rather be Dean (except at the end of his life, depressed about his son's death) than dress like him.
 

ViroBono

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In general a white or cream pocket-handkerchief is all that's needed, though I occasionally wear a red one with DJ.
 

Alexander Kabbaz

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Yes, if the lapel roll does not break sharply at the middle button. In the 1930s, 6-on-2 DBs with lapels rolled to the bottom button were quite popular. Flusser and others strongly recommend that look for shorter guys who love DB.
The gentleman on the cover is 5'11". Do you consider this style still within the bounds of propriety?
 

Manton

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The gentleman on the cover is 5'11". Do you consider this style still within the bounds of propriety?
Sure.  I wasn't referring to Wolfe at all -- and certainly not his hieght.  All I meant was that (as you surely know) it is a matter of considerable controversy in the lore and literature whether or not shorter men should wear DB.  I would estimate that the majority of those who opine on this subject hold the view that they should not.  Those who take the opposite view -- Flusser included -- recommend the 6-on-2 buttoned at the bottom as more advantageous for the short than the 6-on-2 buttoned at the middle.

The original question was: is buttoning a DB at the bottom against the rules?  The answer is: no, it's part of the canon. I threw in the bit about short guys as a side note, because that style of DB is not often discussed.
 

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