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More on wearing button-downs with DB suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Eligius, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    The DB evolved from the frock coat, which historically was more formal than the single-breasted lounge jacket that helped pushed the frock coat off the market once and for all. A DB dinner jacket is less formal than a SB model for reasons that are unclear to me, but all seem to agree on the point. Poll 1,000 people and you will find that most believe that the DB is dressier than a SB (that is, one is more "dressed-up" in a DB than a SB). That's all I said. Don't confuse "dressy" with "formal." I made no claims regarding the latter ... but in most cases, I think the DB is both. If you want "casual," leave the DB in the closet. The farmers will appreciate the gesture.
     


  2. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Poll 1,000 people and you will find that most believe that the DB is dressier than a SB (that is, one is more "dressed-up" in a DB than a SB).


    Good luck finding 1,000 people that wear a suit.


    It's just clothes, wear whatever you like. If you feel a need to be militant about what should or should not be worn, you will probably enjoy thelondonlounge.net or the tailor and cutter forum.
     


  3. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    The thousand we might want to poll don't have to wear a suit to have an opinion about whether suit A is "dressier" than suit B. Just like I don't have to grow facial hair to have an opinion about whether a short-cropped beard is more "dapper" than a clean-shaven face. Of course one may wear what one likes. That goes without saying. But if the question is asked about whether this goes with that, it implicitly assumes that there is a right and wrong about such things and that one is curious about what high sartorial council has to say about such matters. So I will repeat - I think wearing a BD with a DB makes you look like a Goober from Wichita (more often than not). Clark Gable certainly looks like a Goober in those photos.
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Ok.
     


  5. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Who gives a fuck?
     


  6. Eligius

    Eligius Senior member

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    The DB evolved from the frock coat, which historically was more formal than the single-breasted lounge jacket that helped pushed the frock coat off the market once and for all. A DB dinner jacket is less formal than a SB model for reasons that are unclear to me, but all seem to agree on the point.

    Poll 1,000 people and you will find that most believe that the DB is dressier than a SB (that is, one is more "dressed-up" in a DB than a SB). That's all I said. Don't confuse "dressy" with "formal." I made no claims regarding the latter ... but in most cases, I think the DB is both.

    If you want "casual," leave the DB in the closet. The farmers will appreciate the gesture.


    The double-breasted in the 1st half of the century was, as Foo points out, often cited as the more casual lounge suit.

    As Will discusses, it is the single-breasted 3-piece that is most formal. http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/...ted-suits.html
     


  7. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Foo's DB flannel is (perhaps) an exception. The DB is dressy but the flannel is less formal than the worsted alternative. Hence, we're sending mixed sartorial messages. The BD can thus be used to highlight the casual side of that sartorial equation and within the realm of correctness in that particular context. On the other hand, maybe it's crap like that that cost Foo the title of best dressed man in the world. Who's to say?
     


  8. Eligius

    Eligius Senior member

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    Who gives a fuck?

    Are you allowed to use that work within one post of Edmorel?
     


  9. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Foo said nothing of the kind. Lucky for him ... the claim is flatly wrong.

    You're right. We should be taking group pictures of each other's shoes while standing in a circle. Or yacking about whether the olive $150 Joseph A. Banks suit Gomer just bought is OK for his cousin's wedding.

    Me, I won't be able to sleep tonight until this button-down DB thing is settled to my satisfaction.
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I truly don't see the big deal of BD's with DB's and would not hesitate to wear the combo. Same thing with BD's with french cuffs.

    BDs with DB can look very good, but mostly don't, and so should not be encouraged. FC on BD looks bad on everyone, even Cary Grant.
     


  11. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    BDs with DB can look very good, but mostly don't, and so should not be encouraged. FC on BD looks bad on everyone, even Cary Grant.
    I agree with this. In this day and age, I can't imagine anyone wearing a stylish, well-fitting DB would be mistaken for a goober from anywhere, regardless of the shirt collar. The simple fact that that the suit fit correctly would put the wearer a notch above 99 percent of the population. If a guy's clothes fit correctly and look good together, I assume any quirks have been done deliberately. There's charm in that.
     


  12. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    BDs with DB can look very good, but mostly don't, and so should not be encouraged. FC on BD looks bad on everyone, even Cary Grant.

    Many correct things look a lot worse to my eye (fishtail trousers for one) than BD's with DB's or FC's on BD's, so I will continue wearing what I like, as incorrect as it is.
     


  13. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    Did anyone else notice how high waisted his trousers are?
     


  14. J. Cogburn

    J. Cogburn Senior member

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    Agreed Doc. But being better-dressed than 99% of the population is not a particularly high standard these days, now is it?
    Yeah, it could be spezzatura. But more often than not, it's probably ignorantura. If I saw a guy coming into my office for a meeting with a plain worsted DB and an oxford BD, I would think that he's a Goober and that his clueless wife or girlfriend is probably dressing him. He has enough money to afford the good-fitting DB but not enough sense to know how to dress. Then I would cold-cock him. But that's just me.
     


  15. edelaney

    edelaney Member

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    Wow, I cant believe this is a topic of conversation. No button downs with DBs. I rarely wear one period, never when I need to be taken seriously, and NEVER with a DB!!!! Please dont do it!
     


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