MoneyWellSpent's Southern Trad Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Caustic Man, Jun 13, 2016.

  1. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was in one of San Francisco's older independent menswear stores The Hound, last week. An out-of-town, middle aged gentleman was selecting socks and said to the SA with a tone of pride, "I need the bright and colorful ones. Us Southern boys, we love to wear color."
     
  2. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Any experience with their products? I've been tempted to become more acquainted with Sid Washburn but I don't know enough about them.

    You mean like weaved uppers?

    This really says it, to me. Color is not only sought out, but it is a matter of pride and, at least perceived, difference for southerners.
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    CE, by no means did I mean my uncle was exceptional in wearing a harrington for 50+ years. He's always dressed about standard NE as possible. I rem And afaik harringtons have been the default casual jacket in NE for 50+ years. Well, sometime in the 80's they began to be associated w/ old men. Go into any thrift store from DC through Maine from 1992-2012 and you'd have seen a bunch of them, generally in khaki or stone, but sometimes other colors. My uncle's, again, which must be 50 yrs old, are yellow and navy.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016
  4. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've visited the store many times since it opened in Atlanta in 2007. Various brands have come and gone but the over-all house style and influence have a distinctly younger Southern trad feel and vibe without getting too out-there.

    The store is going more and more private label with SId Mashburn branded suits, jackets, trousers, shirts and shoes. Although there are name brand accessories. I just bought some white bucks which were probably made by Alfred Sargent in the UK but branded SM. I was disappointed with a previous purchase of private label tailored shirts. The colors and fit were good but the quality of the fabric just wasn't there. Even after numerous washings they remained a bit stiff. You can still get Incotex, Edward Green, Levis, Sartorio (owned by Kiton) and a few other quality brands.
     
  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    @emptym fair enough. Part of the problem with defining southern trad from it's counterparts in the north and west is that they are all essentially variations on a theme. Sometimes the variations are marked, sometimes not. They are borrowed heavily from one another and, unless you can pinpoint the origins of something, it would be difficult to say for sure where the origins of some of the more heavily borrowed items are.

    I do think it's still fair to say that vibrant colors and light summer fabrics are more quintessentially southern than northern, though.

    @GusW thanks for the info. I was intrigued to find that Sid Mashburn was trying to push dartless jackets, which is admirable in my book. If they can get young people to wear those again then they will have achieved something even the northern tradists can admire.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2016
  6. doomx

    doomx Senior member

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    Yes weaved uppers are something that I have essentially only seen down here, mostly by southern dandies including the owner of a very nice menswear store.
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I would tend to agree. This isn't to say that I haven't seen them elsewhere, just mostly in the south. Even in the south they are pretty rare IME. Maybe yours is different.
     
  8. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    California is the real "New England". In 1579, Sir Francis Drake landed near what is now San Francisco and named the land that he claimed for Queen Elizabeth I, "Nova Albion.

    41 years later, in 1620, a group of regicidal maniac witch burning Roundheads who were aiming for Virginia but missed landed near Cape Cod and as time went by, decided to call their part of the world "New England".

    None of their colonies or cities are named after kings and queens of England unlike the Southern colonies, where all the colonies and many of the cities are named after kings and queens of England.

    A boy I was at school with took some pictures one day in 1964 during lunch. Here's one of the pictures that he took, showing what we looked like at my old school (a public high school in Southern California) in 1964.

    [​IMG]

    The man in the grey suit with his hands in his pocket is the Dean Of Boys who always thought that we all were up to something and is interrogating one of the usual suspects.

    (We were all "usual suspects" just like, to the Dean Of Girls, all the girls were the usual suspects. The Dean Of Girls used to come up behind girls, put her hand on their shoulder and yell "kneel". If the hem of the girl's skirt didn't touch the floor when she kneeled, she was sent home to change.)

    52 years later, those of us who went to the Goldwater rally at the Beverly Hills Hotel in 1964 and never used drugs still dress like everyone in this picture. Those who were radicalized in college and used drugs don't dress like this anymore.
     
  9. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Reasons we love @Roycru : He never disappoints. [​IMG]
     
  10. leftofthedial

    leftofthedial Senior member

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    @Caustic Man

    Absolutely wonderful idea for a thread. It's nice to see Southern Trad getting some love.

    Subscribed.
     
  11. vida

    vida Senior member

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    True, but Sid has a lot of Italian influence in his tailoring and I think he has established his own unique look. I hate Southern Trad...
    looks costume-y and ridiculously trite. And I am from the South.
     
  12. vida

    vida Senior member

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    I agree with Gus. Most things are above average, especially the aesthetic quality of the goods, but the fabrics and finishing with regards to tailoring are not as refined as other makers I have tried ( Ring, Eidos). The fit is also not as slim IMO. He cuts a narrow shoulder and high arm, but the body and sleeves seem disproportionately full by comparison. The tailors are good and can usually balance this out.
     
  13. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    Agreed. I think an examination of the Southern trad genome would show at least a couple of influences from different eras. The pre-air conditioning "Aticus Finch" strain gave rise to cotton (including seersucker) and linen suits and jackets, straw hats, woven uppers shoes, and light colors in general. It was borne of necessity.

    On the other hand, in 1980 when The Official Preppy Handbook came out, the parody aspect of it was either lost on tons of college kids or they didn't care. I don't think it was coincidence that so many of the clothes described therein were coopted by Southern college kids, especially kids in Greek houses, though I don't know why. The brighter colors may simply have been a function of the longer hot weather seasons. I can't remember why I bought my first pink polo shirt. I do remember that the transition from wild polyester disco-inspired print shirts to solid colored OCBD's and bright polos came pretty darn quick in Reagan's first term.
     
  14. PaintSplattered

    PaintSplattered Senior member

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    Thanks to all who provided the information about Sid Mashburn, as I had become curious about that store recently as well.

    I was going to mention the Ivy-Style site, but see it has already been linked. I found that site looking for a review of the H. Freeman and Son MTM program. I didn't go to an Ivy college, and am from Nebraska. I do, however, have an interest in many different types of clothing.

    I remember seeing that picture Roycru posted before, and my mom has similar stories about girls being sent home to change. She was an Air Force brat and lived in Southern California for a while during junior high.

    Must admit in the past I didn't like striped ties, but now I'm liking them more and more. I was simply seeing ugly examples, perhaps.
     
  15. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    Their suits and sport coats are made in Italy (by whom I don't know) and are a bit pricey. I buy mainly socks from Silver. Socks seem to be a recurring theme for Southern Trad! Silver sells these amazing winter herringbone socks. Some of the regimental ties are neat if you are looking for a specific British unit to wear.
     

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