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Modifying the lapel notch

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BGW, Sep 13, 2004.

  1. BGW

    BGW Senior member

    Messages:
    107
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2004
    I purchased an Oxxford suit of ebay. It is some years old, and the lapel notches have a sort of downward orientation for lack of a better term. By that I mean that if one drew a line bisecting the lapel notch, it would point slightly downward (not up toward the shoulder like my neapolitan suits).

    The notches themselves sit about two inches below my collar bone -- not high but also not absurdly low, like one of those old armani's.

    My question is two-fold:

    First, does the notch style I have date the suit and make it look out of place in a modern office?

    Second, would anyone recommend having the notch altered, perhaps by raising the top of the notch, making it more vertical (about a 40 degree angle from 35)? Also, is there any way to slightly raise the bottom of the notch, bringing it slightly closer to horizontal (from 45 degrees to perhaps 40)?
     
  2. dorian

    dorian Senior member

    Messages:
    518
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    NYC/London
    You know, I was at BG yesterday and saw a wonderful 3 pc Oxxford suit.... except that the lapels had the same bizarre shape as you described. Maybe someone who has experience with Oxxford can enlighten us on the subject of whywhywhy...
     
  3. armscye

    armscye Senior member

    Messages:
    182
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2004
    Oxxford has used that shape of notch for years, and in fact to the cognoscenti it is a giveaway of a traditional Oxxford suit. By contrast, some Neapolitan suitmakers like Kiton favor a very openmouthed notch called a "fishmouth." And French suits seem to use a conspicuously closed, angled notch.

    In sum, these variations won't date your suit, they will make it more interesting to those in the know.
     
  4. BGW

    BGW Senior member

    Messages:
    107
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2004
    Thanks guys. I feel better now, in that at least there is some positive aspect. The lapel shape has grown on me, although not to the point where I love it.

    Anyone else have any comments, especially on the feasibility of a change?
     

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