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Modified Brooks Brothers OCBD: Improvement or Crime against Nature?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

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    Not sure this is so. I think of the french front shirt as more formal or elegant and a placket as less formal and better for tieless. A small difference either way.

    We had another thread on placket vs. no placket and we were all very confused & not agreeing about whether or not the plain front, no placket was more formal or more sporty. I think there's a case to be made either way.

    I hate to iron plackets, and I think they look bad without a tie, so I don't get them. And I could be all wrong about this. All I know is that no placket works for me
     
  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    We had another thread on placket vs. no placket and we were all very confused & not agreeing about whether or not the plain front, no placket was more formal or more sporty. I think there's a case to be made either way.

    I hate to iron plackets, and I think they look bad without a tie, so I don't get them. And I could be all wrong about this. All I know is that no placket works for me


    I happen to agree that a shirt without a tie looks better without a placket. I don't know if this is correct or follows conventional wisdom, but it is the case to me. The simpler, cleaner look goes a long away.
     
  3. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    To follow this derailment, I own one shirt with a placket and no chest pocket and it looks weird. After I picked that one up, I'm generally pocket=placket, no pocket=french/no placket.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    To follow this derailment, I own one shirt with a placket and no chest pocket and it looks weird. After I picked that one up, I'm generally pocket=placket, no pocket=french/no placket.

    I kind of feel the same way. In fact, it might have been my Mercer OCBD, with a regular placket but no pocket, that motivated me to try a different approach.
     
  5. neyus

    neyus Senior member

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    Looks great. This is how I envisage a BD Collar shirt to look like.
     
  6. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I appreciate the experimentation with a traditional Brooks design. But, personally I prefer a one button collar and a round barrel cuff. I usually like a placket, but this looks really nice with the heavy oxford cloth. Nicely done.
     
  7. manofstyle

    manofstyle Senior member

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    For $100 a shirt I like it a lot.

    I have shirts made for me in HK, but the BDs are lifeless compared to what Brooks Bros. make.

    Issue for me with Brooks button downs was the low collar height, otherwise they are really nice shirts.
     
  8. sartort

    sartort Senior member

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    mafoofan,

    care to add any actual "in action" pics? i am pretty impressed by what i have seen and read thus far but would like to see what they look like when worn.

    thanks.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    mafoofan's head exploded after taking the bar, I fear he will not be back.
     
  10. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    mafoofan's head exploded after taking the bar, I fear he will not be back.

    Nah... like Dr. Arcane, he'll be back.
     
  11. crazyquik

    crazyquik Senior member

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    I recently recieved a Jantzan OCBD, with longer collar points, standard placket, 2 button cuffs, and button-thru pocket. However, I ordered it with NO collar interlining and got a lining [​IMG]
     
  12. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Over the years, I've bought more than a dozen OCBDs from Brooks Brothers and gave Mercer a crack. I would've tried J. Press, but their stock shirts are tents on me and they don't do made-to-measure OCBDs. Until now, no OCBD has completely satisfied me. So, I decided to give Brooks Brothers' made-to-measure program another try--but this time, I implemented some modifications to the classic format. [​IMG] To make the collar higher and improve the collar roll, I had them implement a two-button collar. The old, single-button collar tended to flatten on my neck; this one stays up and looks better with a jacket. In the interest of making the shirt dressier, I also replaced the standard placket with a French placket (or 'no placket', if you prefer). I've never liked the way a rounded barrel cuff looks poking out of a jacket sleeve, so I got rid of the standard OCBD cuff and added a two-button mitered cuff. I also eliminated the chest pocket and back pleats. The final shirt is more usable to me. Worn by itself, it looks dressier. It also looks better with a jacket and tie since the collar stands up better and there is more space for a tie knot. Yet, it works just as well as the original when worn casually with jeans, and it's just as durable. Thoughts? Have I created something that shouldn't be?
    How did you determine the measurements for the shirts? Did you just give them your Matuzzo shirts to copy? And how many do you have of them by now? They do get a lot of wear in your recent WAYWT shots. Also, doesn't the comparative lower quality of the BB shirts bother you?
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How did you determine the measurements for the shirts? Did you just give them your Matuzzo shirts to copy? And how many do you have of them by now? They do get a lot of wear in your recent WAYWT shots.

    No, these were not copied from my bespoke shirts. I just went through BB's regular MTM process. I just specified a few out-of-the-ordinary things to get the final result.
     
  14. sonvolt10

    sonvolt10 Well-Known Member

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    What is the current pricing for the modified BB OCBD's?
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is the current pricing for the modified BB OCBD's?

    I believe the retail price for a single shirt is ~$120, but you won't pay anywhere near that if you take advantage of promotions, coupons, special credit cards, etc. I think I wound up paying arounr $85 per shirt--but I also bought 10 of them.
     
  16. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    Actually, it fits pretty damned well. Don't tell Anna. There's about an extra 3/4 inch around the waist, but I think the slightly roomier fit suits the shirt.

    Not to dig up an old thread, but what do you think of the armholes on these BB MTMs, Foo? I have three shirts from this program and I am pretty happy with them aside from the armhole. Much too large and a pity when paired with a body that fits, well, pretty damned well.
     
  17. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I believe the retail price for a single shirt is ~$120, but you won't pay anywhere near that if you take advantage of promotions, coupons, special credit cards, etc. I think I wound up paying arounr $85 per shirt--but I also bought 10 of them.

    Lucky. I called one of their London shops, and MTM starts at £130 here, with no promotions to take advantage of. Definitely not worth it.
     
  18. NaturalShoulder

    NaturalShoulder Senior member

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    Not to dig up an old thread, but what do you think of the armholes on these BB MTMs, Foo? I have three shirts from this program and I am pretty happy with them aside from the armhole. Much too large and a pity when paired with a body that fits, well, pretty damned well.

    I have the same complaint about mine. The fit is otherwise great, but the arms are huge.
     
  19. glowell222

    glowell222 Senior member

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    Over the years, I've bought more than a dozen OCBDs from Brooks Brothers and gave Mercer a crack. I would've tried J. Press, but their stock shirts are tents on me and they don't do made-to-measure OCBDs. Until now, no OCBD has completely satisfied me.

    So, I decided to give Brooks Brothers' made-to-measure program another try--but this time, I implemented some modifications to the classic format.


    [​IMG]

    To make the collar higher and improve the collar roll, I had them implement a two-button collar. The old, single-button collar tended to flatten on my neck; this one stays up and looks better with a jacket. In the interest of making the shirt dressier, I also replaced the standard placket with a French placket (or 'no placket', if you prefer).


    [​IMG]

    I've never liked the way a rounded barrel cuff looks poking out of a jacket sleeve, so I got rid of the standard OCBD cuff and added a two-button mitered cuff.

    I also eliminated the chest pocket and back pleats. The final shirt is more usable to me. Worn by itself, it looks dressier. It also looks better with a jacket and tie since the collar stands up better and there is more space for a tie knot. Yet, it works just as well as the original when worn casually with jeans, and it's just as durable.

    Thoughts? Have I created something that shouldn't be?


    Other than the two-button collar, this is how I've had my button down shirts made, though I have an inverted pleat on the back so I can have just a bit more room to move. I like what you've done. I may have to give the two-button collar shirts a try next time I order.
     
  20. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    Just please, please, please don't wear a bd with a double breasted suit.
     

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