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Modified Brooks Brothers OCBD: Improvement or Crime against Nature?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Then this will really freak you out: I have eight Anna Matuozzo shirts in the exact same Riva blue twill, and in exactly the same format. By next year, I hope to make that number twelve.

    There's nothing more beautiful to me than a closet full of the same shirt.


    You're right. I'm totally freaked out. I'm glad you don't know where I live now. [​IMG]



    The funny thing is, if push came to shove, I'd keep the double-button collar and ditch the other changes. I don't know why higher collars seem to suit me so much better. On the face, it makes little sense since I'm short. Maybe it has to do with the exact shape of my neck, or maybe it looks better because I'm shorter. If it means anything, Anna herself suggested a higher collar for me on my bespoke shirts. I don't know what's going on. But I experience a similar phenomenon with regard to collar size: bigger seems to be better on me, despite my stature.

    I can see that, in the abstract. But I wear OCBDs almost exlcusively without ties, and I happen to think that double-button collars look not-so-good with an open collar, which is why it's a deal killer for me (and to a lesser extent, the placket for the same reason...)

    EDIT: Houndstooth OCBDs are a classic too.
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Then this will really freak you out: I have eight Anna Matuozzo shirts in the exact same Riva blue twill, and in exactly the same format. By next year, I hope to make that number twelve.

    There's nothing more beautiful to me than a closet full of the same shirt.


    What?? [​IMG]

    That is just crazy
     
  3. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    mafoofan--Like batman, only more OC(B)D
    Considering the furniture thread in conjunction with this thread, I would say he's more Bateman.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    + many.

    Didn't you at least tell them to hold the order until you heard what your e-freinds think? And if not, why have you wasted our time. I am here to change the world for good, not to amuse with opinions on decisions already made.


    Ha, if I waited to order after posting, you'd all be criticizing me for being a style-less tool. Now, at worst, I'm a tool with bad style.

    Let my modified OCBD be a gift to the sartorial world. I ask nothing in return.

    Me too. I would have gotten ten blue and skipped the stripes.

    This crossed my mind, actually. Nobody really talks about it, but the Brooks Brothers oxford blue is one of the prettiest blues for a shirt conceivable.
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The two-button collar is, I think, the most traumatic change to the shirt since it alters the element it's best known for. So, it does look odd at first. But objectively, I think it's an improvement since it adds some vertical emphasis. I normally always leave two shirt buttons undone because I don't like how stuffy it looks to unbutton only the top one. But with this shirt, I'm fine with leaving only one button undone because the collar appears to carve out more open neck space.

    I wonder if we'd have thought twice if the maker had been anyone but Brooks. Such is the power of branding and tradition.
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That said, I probably wouldn't have ordered five of the blue unistripe, as nice as those are. Especially when the red unistripe is so appealing too, IMHO. I really like the charcoal unistripe Mercer offers also.

    Surely BB has some small checks that would've been great in a BD collar and still versatile enough for wearing with a tie...did you ever think about ordering something like that, mafoofan?


    Clearly, you don't understand my psychology. When I see a non-blue shirt, I mentally replace it with a blue one.

    Small checks might be okay. If they're blue.

    What?? [​IMG]

    That is just crazy


    No, it's sanity. Soothing, consistent, homogenous sanity.

    Considering the furniture thread in conjunction with this thread, I would say he's more Bateman.

    He had some cool Barcelona chairs in that movie.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have BDs from CEGO and Geneva. They all have high collarbands and one button collars. They do slouch a little bit, especially compared to my spread collars, which have the same band but two buttons.

    I just do not like the look of a two button collar worn open. That, and not really the incongruity of it being on an OCBD, is my real objection to these shirts.
     
  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Five identical shirts, in two separate colorways? Who does that? I have maybe three white button cuff shirts, for times when CBD reigns supreme, but other than that ...

    Amateur.

    - B
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    What?? [​IMG]

    That is just crazy


    I support M. fully.

    I just moved in the last month after many years in the same place, and it was sobering to finally realize that I had accumulated over a 100 of the commonly known RTW Italian hand-finished shirts in a menagerie of colors and patterns. Sickening. They hadn't been collected in one place before, and each shirt looked at me accusingly, for not all are loved.

    I admire young Mr. F's monk-like shirt monotheism.


    - B
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I think the flattened collar, btw, is part of the look of an OCBD (see, WFB and DPM) but perhaps you need a high collar band more than most.

    I agree that is our youthful ideal, but to my eye, no one produces that collar anymore, even BB.

    Carl from CEGO, I recall, theorized that this look is the result of enthusiastic, cheap laundering applied through ever shrinking collars to ever fattening necks. Perhaps. But, I remember getting this look right from the get go.

    - B
     
  11. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Me too. I would have gotten ten blue and skipped the stripes.
    This is not uncommon for men who know their style and what they want. Ordering one particular quality, or one particular style/color within a quality. And it seems especially true with blues and blue stripes (obviously white as well). Makes some sense too. After all if you feel the need to get 5 different shirts but wear the blue striped one most often, then it'll wear out sooner and you'll be stuck with the shirts you only got because you were worried about repetition.
     
  12. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

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    I like the 2-button collar and have several BD shirts with 2-button collars by Borrelli, Lorenzini and others. I would bring back the placket and chest pocket though, which are essential on a BD. I am indifferent on the cuffs.
     
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    I wonder if we'd have thought twice if the maker had been anyone but Brooks. Such is the power of branding and tradition.

    Eh. Like I mentioned before, the Italians have been doing this for awhile, but they don't do oxxford cloth very often, at least in RTW.

    If I thought BB still produced the type of shirt that I remember wearing growing up, I might defend its integrity more, but the current stock version is inadequate, both in cut and cloth, and the tarted up Thom Browne version that I like better is not the traditional mid-century BB OCBD shirt either.

    Moreover, since it is a stock MTM option, I am sure that many have already trod where M. has gone.

    - B
     
  14. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just don't like it.
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just do not like the look of a two button collar worn open. That, and not really the incongruity of it being on an OCBD, is my real objection to these shirts.

    Maybe a new acronym is in order. Maybe MOCDBBD, for modified oxford cloth double-button button down? It may be incongruent as an OCBD, but its a dead-on MOCDBBD.

    I admire young Mr. F's monk-like shirt monotheism.

    I imagine it's like being a vegetarian or drinking diet soda. After a while, you don't care for what you're missing.

    This is not uncommon for men who know their style and what they want. Ordering one particular quality, or one particular style/color within a quality. And it seems especially true with blues and blue stripes (obviously white as well).

    I just have OCD when it comes to my OCBDs.
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just don't like it.

    Yes, you do. You just don't know it yet.
     
  17. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    I like that all my shirts have two-button collars now. The uniformity soothes me.

    I fully understand this cumpulsion...er...feeling. [​IMG]

    Let my modified OCBD be a gift to the sartorial world. I ask nothing in return.

    You should follow Manton's lead from his BlazerSuit (TM) and get a patent on your creation.

    Overall, I like M.'s modified OCBD. Wear them in good health. I'd like to see how the collar looks with a tie.
     
  18. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I just have OCD when it comes to my OCBDs.
    More likely you just wear a new shirt every day.
     
  19. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    More likely you just wear a new shirt every day.

    Ah yes, Khashoggi syndrome.
     
  20. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Ah yes, Khashoggi syndrome.
    Heh, though I think it was closer to Washoggi syndrome.[​IMG]
     

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