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Modified Brooks Brothers OCBD: Improvement or Crime against Nature?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jul 22, 2008.

  1. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm sure she could, but it would be overkill for a shirt I'd like to neglect and abuse with impunity. With discounts, these bad boys are only ~$100 each.
    Oh, you can afford it. The difference is like 7% of one Rubinacci.

    I go no placket on all my shirts so they can be worn tieless
    ??? Is that what I've been doing wrong all these years?

    I do not 'ball'... But a Rubinacci sack would be a fascinating creature.
    I need to wash my brain now.
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Am I even allowed over there anymore? The shirt would only cause further alienation.

    Replace the lowly Manton-y plastic buttons with those Kabbaz MOP ones. They are the finest in the world...center punched from mermaid scale.

    Stock up on underwear and socks while you are over there. I am particularly fond of the Zimmerli briefs with the rise that go up to one's nips. I like stuffing the extra fabric into Japanese denim...gathering it up like a spent parachute and jam, jam, jamming it into a pair of Somets.

    Makes it look like your packin' cannon...but be careful, you have to stuff the front rather than the back for this effect.



    - B
     
  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think I like it, and I imagine I'll like it even more once it gets a bit tattered. My first thought was that maybe you'd be better off with a more refined cloth, but the more I've looked at it, the more I've decided I like the contrast of the design details and the simple cloth. Makes the shirt look less precious than it might with a fancier cloth. The lack of placket works very well. My fondness for minimalism/tradition probably would have prompted me to stick with one-button cuffs, but that's a minor quibble, and me being stuck in my ways.

    Not quite sure what to think of the tall two-button collar for open-collar wear. I once bought a tall-collar buttondown and returned it, thinking the collar seemed a bit much. Maybe it was something about the overall effect of that specific shirt, or maybe I just wimped out. I'll be curious to see some pictures of yours in action.

    Anyway, nice to see someone willing to tweak a classic design. Doubt you'll run into anyone wearing a shirt like yours, M. Hope you get plenty of wear out of it.
     
  4. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I go no placket on all my shirts so they can be worn tieless (I am a jacket, no tie guy, esp. in summer). so +1 for the no placket heavy OCBD. To my eye, a placket has to be covered by a tie, and I have a bunch of no-placket BDs, mainly Jantzens, and I like this part of your shirt a lot & have worn no-placket BDs and find them to my liking etc.
    Not sure this is so. I think of the french front shirt as more formal or elegant and a placket as less formal and better for tieless. A small difference either way.
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The two-button collar, in particular, is a good improvement.

    I like that all my shirts have two-button collars now. The uniformity soothes me.

    When is the best time to buy to get these kinds of discounts? Are the MTM OCBD's USA made? Do they charge extra for style preferences such as no pocket and side pleats instead of a box pleat?

    They usually give a 15% discount whenever you buy at least three made-to-measure shirts. That discount can be combined with a further 15% if you apply for and use a Brooks Brothers card to make the purchase.

    The options you name don't cost extra.

    Oh, you can afford it. The difference is like 7% of one Rubinacci.

    Oh, I definitely can't afford it. Anyway, to be admittedly hypocritical, a handsewn OCBD seems a little antithetical to me.

    Replace the lowly Manton-y plastic buttons with those Kabbaz MOP ones. They are the finest in the world...center punched from mermaid scale.

    Stock up on underwear and socks while you are over there. I am particularly fond of the Zimmerli briefs with the rise that go up to one's nips. I like stuffing the extra fabric into Japanese denim...gathering it up like a spent parachute and jam, jam, jamming it into a pair of Somets.

    Makes it look like your packin' cannon...but be careful, you have to stuff the front rather than the back for this effect.


    For the record, you said it, not me [​IMG].

    The lack of placket works very well. My fondness for minimalism/tradition probably would have prompted me to stick with one-button cuffs, but that's a minor quibble, and me being stuck in my ways.

    Not quite sure what to think of the tall two-button collar for open-collar wear. I once bought a tall-collar buttondown and returned it, thinking the collar seemed a bit much. Maybe it was something about the overall effect of that specific shirt, or maybe I just wimped out. I'll be curious to see some pictures of yours in action.


    I might have considered a one-button cuff, but oddly, Brooks Brothers only offers a mitered cuff with two buttons. I don't know why.

    The two-button collar is, I think, the most traumatic change to the shirt since it alters the element it's best known for. So, it does look odd at first. But objectively, I think it's an improvement since it adds some vertical emphasis. I normally always leave two shirt buttons undone because I don't like how stuffy it looks to unbutton only the top one. But with this shirt, I'm fine with leaving only one button undone because the collar appears to carve out more open neck space.

    Not sure this is so. I think of the french front shirt as more formal or elegant and a placket as less formal and better for tieless. A small difference either way.

    That's what I figure.
     
  6. Agnacious

    Agnacious Senior member

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    I think the placket change is the most drastic change.

    The removal of the pocket I could live with though I usually have them on my BDs. And the back pleats, I am indifferent.

    I am not a fan of the cuff treatment. I would rather a button on the sleeve placket to keep the cuff straight. If there is one there, then the second button on the cuff is decorative and distracting.

    But the change of the front placket I think will detract by getting rid of the wrinkled placket that all of my OCBD have, and now it is in shirt limbo. I generally prefer the french placket, but I never considered it on an OCBD. Perhaps I just need to broaden my horizons.

    I would never wear a tie with a BD because I think it looks a bit off, but this shirt straddles the line.

    But as long as you are happy and had fun that is all that matters. I don't think it is a crime, but I wonder how many times you will end up reaching for it.
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would never wear a tie with a BD because I think it looks a bit off, but this shirt straddles the line.

    Oh, I think it looks fantastic with a tie--especially when worn Napoli style!

    But as long as you are happy and had fun that is all that matters. I don't think it is a crime, but I wonder how many times you will end up reaching for it.

    Well, I've got 10 on order (five blue, five blue candystripe). So, it looks like I'll be reaching for them frequently enough out of shear probability.
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You know, you really are snarkproof. [​IMG]
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I've got 10 on order (five blue, five blue candystripe). So, it looks like I'll be reaching for them frequently enough out of shear probability.

    This is really wierd.
     
  10. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is really weird.
    ???
     
  11. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ???

    Five identical shirts, in two separate colorways? Who does that? I have maybe three white button cuff shirts, for times when CBD reigns supreme, but other than that ...
     
  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like everything except for the two button collar. You should model it for us with a tie if you get a chance.

    I recently got some ocbd bespoke shirts made and also got mitered cuffs and no pocket. Next time I will consider the French placket too. Nice touch.


    Yeah, the two-button collar is a mistake, I think.

    I don't think I'm a fan, either.

    I agree that the two button collar is icky. I think the flattened collar, btw, is part of the look of an OCBD (see, WFB and DPM) but perhaps you need a high collar band more than most. I don't think so, though. I also like the box pleat in back and it pains me to see it gone. The other tweaks seem to be fine.

    I can't say exactly why some features seem critical to leave alone and some are fine to ignore. I would go back to the normal collar and return the box pleat. they seem important to me.

    You asked for opinions and now you have mine.
     
  13. shoreman1782

    shoreman1782 Senior member

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    mafoofan--Like batman, only more OC(B)D
     
  14. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was glad to see the box pleat go, as they annoy me. I prefer side pleats for my own shirts, but if mafoo does not need them, then no reason to have them.
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is really wierd.

    + many.

    Didn't you at least tell them to hold the order until you heard what your e-freinds think? And if not, why have you wasted our time. I am here to change the world for good, not to amuse with opinions on decisions already made.
     
  16. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    This is really wierd.

    I concur in the sentiment, but can't endorse the spelling.

    I don't mind the mitred cuffs, although I agree that they're not very OCBD-like, or the double-cuff buttons.
     
  17. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I concur in the sentiment

    +2
     
  18. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is really wierd.

    I concur in the sentiment.

    Me too. I would have gotten ten blue and skipped the stripes.
     
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You know, you really are snarkproof. [​IMG]

    Not on purpose. Most of the time, I honestly have no idea what you're all talking about.

    This is really wierd.

    Five identical shirts, in two separate colorways? Who does that? I have maybe three white button cuff shirts, for times when CBD reigns supreme, but other than that ...

    Then this will really freak you out: I have eight Anna Matuozzo shirts in the exact same Riva blue twill, and in exactly the same format. By next year, I hope to make that number twelve.

    There's nothing more beautiful to me than a closet full of the same shirt.

    I agree that the two button collar is icky. I think the flattened collar, btw, is part of the look of an OCBD (see, WFB and DPM) but perhaps you need a high collar band more than most. I don't think so, though. I also like the box pleat in back and it pains me to see it gone. The other tweaks seem to be fine.

    I can't say exactly why some features seem critical to leave alone and some are fine to ignore. I would go back to the normal collar and return the box pleat. they seem important to me.

    You asked for opinions and now you have mine.


    And thank you for it! The funny thing is, if push came to shove, I'd keep the double-button collar and ditch the other changes. I don't know why higher collars seem to suit me so much better. On the face, it makes little sense since I'm short. Maybe it has to do with the exact shape of my neck, or maybe it looks better because I'm shorter. If it means anything, Anna herself suggested a higher collar for me on my bespoke shirts. I don't know what's going on. But I experience a similar phenomenon with regard to collar size: bigger seems to be better on me, despite my stature.

    mafoofan--Like batman, only more OC(B)D

    See, Manton, someone understands me.
     
  20. cvac

    cvac Senior member

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    Having five blue BDs doesn't seem like a bad thing to me. I really like solid blue BDs too. I have five as well, though two of them look different because they are royal oxford and pinpoint, not standard end on end OC like the others.

    That said, I probably wouldn't have ordered five of the blue unistripe, as nice as those are. Especially when the red unistripe is so appealing too, IMHO. I really like the charcoal unistripe Mercer offers also.

    Surely BB has some small checks that would've been great in a BD collar and still versatile enough for wearing with a tie...did you ever think about ordering something like that, mafoofan?
     

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