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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    From the Cheaney website

    Jonathan and William Church
    In August, 2009, cousins Jonathan and William Church conducted a management buy-out of Cheaney from Church & Co (by then a wholly owned subsidiary of Prada). They now own and operate the company and are committed to continuing the production of high quality shoes entirely made in Northamptonshire, from the cutting out of the leather to the final polishing, just as it was in 1886.
     
  2. flyfronted

    flyfronted Senior member

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    My Mrs has a pair of ladies Church Brogues and they are a thing of beauty and wonder .
     
  3. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Yes, Church's brogues can be beautiful. My Diplomat semi brogues have been around since 2006 (a replacement pair when Church's damaged my 2000 vintage Diplomats during a refurb!). Here they are last autumn at 6 and a half years old:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    There has been a bit of Loake-bashing lately. I do understand that and have often joined in myself.

    Loakes can be fully 'Made in England' from good calf leather and when they are - normally this would mean buying from the 1880 or 'Comfort' ranges - they can be excellent value. Anything else will probably be put together in England from bits made in India (like the Royal) or be wholly made in India. There is a Loake thread on the main forum.

    My Kews (now discontinued) are great quality and were exceptional value at about £150. Though no 'skinhead' styles in these ranges.....
    [​IMG]
     
  5. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Mr Knightley,I have 2 pairs of Loake boots from the 1880 range and i am very happy with them.As you say some ranges are made in India and you can see the difference in quality,i believe that a lot of Barkers are made in India too.I dont really like the shape of the toe on the Loake Royal,i could live with that though but not the leather they make them from.I think that the comfort thing has to be an individual thing ,Clouseau and Basset say theirs are uncomfortable whereas Botolph rates his.
     
  6. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    Yeah, probably just down to each fella's particular foot shape. Mine feel just fine after a good few hours.
    However, the difference in materials definitely can make a difference. I have a pair of cordovan Florsheim "Imperial" smooths that are supposedly from '75(though I doubt it as the fake "wood grain" on the sole didn't appear until '80ish if I'm correct), and I could wear 'em around the house and to work as they're really "like buttah'.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Basset

    Basset Senior member

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    Had quite a few pairs of Ruc's, probabably around 85 onwards, think they had three stars on the side as a logo,
    black or navy blue, i know what you mean, i've worn things in the past that make me shudder when i think of them
     
  8. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Yes, but i think that the collaboration between Church and Cheaney must be much older than that, because i have heard of it in the beginning of the nineties.
     
  9. Basset

    Basset Senior member

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    Interesting, another company outsourcing, a bit like Martens

    I bought my Royals when they first brought them out 05? it's not a bad looking shoe, they do change shape a little and spread when there broke in
    in terms of build quality, the've stood up well, and have developed no problems, polish up well, sole/stiching all intact, i paid around eighty pound for them so all in all good vfm, but there still as stiff as hell and kill me, mind you i've got arther in me cankles which doesn't help.

    I also had at that time, a pair of Jones the bootmakers Brogues, a company that doesn't get mentioned much, cost me arond £120, and were comfy
    a case of you get what you pay for, for me at the time
     
  10. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Bought my Royals around 2009 i think, for 100 quids, in London (for Continentals like me, London is the more convenient destination with the shuttle. But it is a bloody expensive city). Think the same as Basset: good quality, age well, nice color (burgundy), but i can't walk all day with them like i do with my Church's Burwood.
    And i don't think it will change, the leather of the sole is not supple at all. My Church's are comfy since day one... But at least the Loakes look good.
     
  11. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Clouseau.Maybe the answer would be the Loake Sovereign,it is the Royal with a Danite rubber sole,i have that sole on one of my pairs of Loake 1880 boots,very good IMO.In answer to your flight jacket question about 12 years ago i knew someone who bought a Schott CWU jacket,i think it was better quality than the same Alpha jacket.About monkey boots,have i seen a picture of Jean Jacques Burnel wearing them with black jeans ?
     
  12. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Yes, i saw the Sovereign, and i am sure they are more comfortable, but to me Brogues must have leather soles... Sorry Cerneabbas, once again i am too classic, i know...
    About CWU, i don't lke their look, and here in France, they are exclusively wear by boneheads...
    Not for me !
     
  13. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Botolph.I like those smooths,how easy are shoes like that to find in the USA now ?. In answer to your "what did people drink back in the day." ? Well i live in the "wild west country" and the traditional drink is cider ( "aggro ale" as its sometimes known ),young lads drank it in the park/woods,sometimes with asprins in as that was thought to get you drunk quicker.What surprised me is that nobody mentioned the "keg" beers that were very popular at the time,they were well advertised on tv,so when you went into say a Watney pub for the first time you asked for Red Barrel,Worthington pub Worthington E,Courage pub Courage Tavern,Whitbread was Tankard or Trophy ( i think ).Lager was popular early 70s and would soon take over from beer as the best seller,Harp,Skol,Heineken,Carlsberg are the ones i remember.A question for you,as a Cider drinker myself i am interested in a drink that i have read about from America,applejack,is it still available and is it well known,or just a niche drink in certain states ?
     
  14. cerneabbas

    cerneabbas Senior member

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    Clouseau,I am sorry i just meant that if the Schott CWU was better quality than the Alpha then maybe it was also better as a MA1.I should have guessed that you would say that with the Soveriegn !.I remember my first brogues about 70 or 71,longwings but they had no detail ( holes ) at the front,they were not the greatest of brogues then ,but good leather and i wish i could get a pair the same now.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2013
  15. Basset

    Basset Senior member

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    Must admit im the same when it comes to shoes, leather soles for me, you can get Loafers, Brogues, with various rubber/airwear soles, cant stand em
    mind you i dont like DM shoes, which is strange considering i like the boots, personal tastes i suppose
     
  16. Botolph

    Botolph Senior member

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    Thanks for the info regarding "tipples of the times", cerneabbas. As far as the shoes go, you just have to have the combination of a keen eye for quality and dumb luck when dealing with eBay, Etsy, et cetera. I've made my (small)share of regrettable eBay purchases, like a pair of old Florsheim Imperial gunboats that looked great until I stepped off a curb/kerb wrong and the shoelace tore through the eyelets on my left brogue!
    Now the old Applejack... Oh man. I don't know if it's regional but we have it here in New England. It was ruined for me at a very young age and I haven't rried it since. My Mum(being a great cook at the worst of times) made some chicken concoction with Applejack in it and it just turned my stomach upside down and my face green. I'll never forget the taste of it, and to this day I won't go near it or cider of any stripe. I wish I'd had the same experience with Buckfast Tonic Wine; I'd be a more innocent fellow for it:satisfied:
     
  17. ek77

    ek77 Senior member

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    no, not by solovair.. the original bunch of the so called uk skinheads forum astronauts were handmade/handcut from some deadstock oxblood leather and deadstock tredair soles.. as i remember right they were made as a strictly limited edition around 20 or 30 pairs and just for board members...
    bbc (british boot company) found out about it and thought it will be a good idea to produce them for everyone...
    and now you will find these so called 69 boot everywhere...
    http://mikkelrude.co.uk/products/10-footwear/40-mikkel-rude-1969-boot/
    http://www.aircushionboot.com/ElevenEyeCalfLeatherAstronautBoot.html

    here is a pair of the original uk skinheads forum order:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. ek77

    ek77 Senior member

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    i guess we already had this pic before, as i remember right..
    outside steel caps.. ;)
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Gsvs5

    Gsvs5 Senior member

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    I remember that the" Heel Seam" was a very important feature in most of the Loafer style shoes we used to wear.Just came across this one on a recent production pr from Florsheim.(made in India )[​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Thanks for the precision, Ek77. Those Astronauts replicas are quite good, but they don't have the same grooves on the side of the soles than the old Hawkins (who had lesser grooves in comparison to Airwair). And the Hawkins had a nice brown sole on their oxblood or brown models. Those details are not on the Solovairs either.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2013

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