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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

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    If you got into a "punch-up" and you were out of the Manor,the Doormen would side with the Locals.They also dished out their brand of punishment-with the Old Bill picking you up outside(nothing was done on the Street,always in a back-room).I remember in the 70s a group of "Tottenham Royal"Door staff came to Ilford.They were going to take on any Club in that Area.They got as far as "The Room At The Top".We received the call at the Palais-where we were waiting.
     
  2. browniecj

    browniecj Senior member

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    It was not just the North that had the Women walking around in curlers-we had our fair share as well :)
     
  3. Basset

    Basset Senior member

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    Lets put it this way, i prefered an ice cream to a no6 back then [​IMG]
     
  4. Ivyskin89

    Ivyskin89 Senior member

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    That is why I did the pocket flap, but do think I might leave it out, but I don't know. I don't want it to be an exact replica of a Ben Sherman. I'm am still in the prototype phase and still playing with details.
    I am using a production tailor, they are made right here in Boston, and I am only using vintage textiles and Italian or Japanese made cotton. The ones made with vintage fabric will be exclusively sold at Bobby From Boston and will retail at $150.

    I am also open to opinions/criticisms about the back of the shirt. There is a box pleat there, just hard to see in the photo.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Ivyskin89

    Ivyskin89 Senior member

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    Oh, the pocket is on the left breast.
     
  6. roytonboy

    roytonboy Senior member

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    It was quite common at one time - the 'Aintree' photo, however, could have been taken in Liverpool city centre last Saturday afternoon.
     
  7. Sirryacus

    Sirryacus Senior member

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    That is one the stories my mom liked to tell about how my grandmother would embarrass her if she got into trouble, she would drop her off at school and get out of the car in a bathrobe,slippers and with curlers in her hair for everyone at school to see.
     
  8. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    A question for the originals.
    i've red several times that Jean Jacques Burnel, born 1952, notorious bassist (The Stranglers), French but raised in England, was in his youth in the early seventies a Skinhead. Heard of that before?


    [​IMG]
     
  9. Gsvs5

    Gsvs5 Senior member

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    Each to their own and to me getting bespoke is a very personal thing and not open to debate.Primarily,bespoke offers the chance of a perfect fit.It then opens up the options to have something unique in both style and fabric.It allows you to play around with button styles,thread colours,stitch patterns.The problem is where to draw the line,and at what point does individuality become too much and "Over Designed"/ The old Mod ethos of "One Upmanship" had many leaving the tailor shop with some frankenstein creations.(my mate's 22" double vented suit springs to mind).So some self restraint is also healthy. If your body type is average and you can find what you need of the peg then i see little point in just replicating what's out there,unless of course it's just not available.BD's are an American Classic and the wealth of availability is astounding.
    A friend just had some shirts done by a Neapolitan Shirtmaker,which are some of the best tailors in the world IMO.
    Solid Navy,and at first glance looked like a nice solid Navy poplin.Then i saw the "crows foot" stitches,the contrast orange thread used on just the collar buttons,the drape and weight of the poplin,the contrast fabric triangle used at the bottom sides etc.etc.All subtle details,restrained,stylish and individual without looking too much.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Quote:Yes, I agree. And this demands some restraint. I am having a blazer made and had my first fitting yesterday. It is my first bespoke item, apart from trousers, for a while and my tailor had to keep reining me in. I wanted to go for a brighter colour of lining and buttons than he considered suitable. Thankfully, on reflection, he won!
     
  11. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Quote:No, Clouseau I hadn't. I suppose by 'the early 70s' I would have lost interest in matters skinhead anyway.
     
  12. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Mod to Suedehead - discuss.

    Forgive me if I seem pedantic but where is some of the recent discussion taking us? I mean ladies? in rollers, old bags at Ascot, Teds and Greasers, skinheads in the 70s all seems a bit peripheral, what?
     
  13. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Thanks MR Brideshead. I wrote early seventies, but it could be late sixties...

    I met him very briefly in Paris in the nineties. Quite impressive. I would not step on the toe of his Astros...
     
  14. Mr Knightley

    Mr Knightley Senior member

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    Quote:Yes, didn't mean to be dismissive but I don't recall. One thing I have been meaning to ask is about the influence of les Minets on styles in France. Where and when did they fit into the timeline? Thanks.
     
  15. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    Les "minets"(that mean kitties) started early seventies and last to the early eighties. The first ones could be the equivalent of mods in France. They used to go in the Drugstore on the Champs élysées, spent all treir money on clothes and shoes, try to date the loveliest girls, had quite long hairs but hated hippies. They were the precursors. After that, like with all fashion, it became mainstream, and every teenager with a decent pair of strides, a nice shirt, and Sebago loafers were called "minet". The originals one were interesting, not the others imo. There is a very good french movie about them: "La bande du drugstore"
     
  16. Ivyskin89

    Ivyskin89 Senior member

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    Yes, I agree. My shirt too has gussets and all overlapping seams. I don't know any american companies that do a slim fit 4 finger collar button down. I already have people who are going to buy up the rest of the vintage gingham when they are done. I feel I'm on the right track, but you absolutely right about not letting it get out of hand. Thats hilarious about the 22" side vents! lol
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  17. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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  18. Clouseau

    Clouseau Senior member

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    The exact timeline would be late sixties for the precursors to early-mid eighties for the followers. There influence on style is the kit they wore who became (well not the more expensive) mainstream: shetlands, Lacoste, Sebago, JM Weston, Carvil, leather flight jackets, oxford shirts, colored socks, pastel colors...
     
  19. Gsvs5

    Gsvs5 Senior member

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    Guilty your Honor......I agree.The curler incident was a little light relief but fits in with the North /South divide and the Scouse humour,which is priceless.Scousers are the Neapolitans of the North.Full of pride,passion,piss and nicked gear.Teds and greasers will always be in the conversation.From the leering ,sneering disapproval of the mecca doormen clinging on too their slick,quiffed, ducks arses to understanding of the importance of our tribal dress sense by parents who more than likely worshiped Gene Vincent and Eddie Cochran.
    As Roy has spoken of his dilemma at shelling out his wage packet to shod his kids in the "Right " gear,our parents in bewilderment did the same for many of us over forty years ago.Without the peripheral vision you can not get the whole picture.As I'm sure you've experienced ,America and England speak the same language yet there are hidden nuances in our cultures that can not be translated and will never be truly understood by either IMO.As the Harley owners proudly proclaim "If I need to explain,then you'll never understand".Rightly so.
    How can you begin to expect generations of people to grasp the idea that a very large percentage of Britains youth were captivated and embraced a style that has since been blacklisted ,maligned,misinterpreted,misunderstood,hijacked for the worse and become associated with hate rather than a style?What was worn is the Book Cover - what's inside is the culture.
    On that note.....Can we stay on topic please !
     
  20. yankmod

    yankmod Senior member

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    Ivyskin89.My personal preference(back of the shirt) I like the button at the back of the collar.I prefer the loop on the back. Clouseau.Didn't know about the Kitties.Looks interesting and will check out the film. Gsvs5. Well said(or writ) I believe sometimes going off topic can be positive and leads to memories long forgotten.Never know where a thought will go.But I agree with you.Maybe we need to discuss some aspect we have not yet.There was a brief discussion about racism and bigotry (which we try to ignore,tryin to keep politics out) I do think a discussion about racism is important to the book.Must dispel the myths and misconceptions,Lasttye had a good quote about the west indian community's contribution to British life.It said everything we need to say about the subject.My desire for the book is more stories involving the families of the "originals" and their approval or disapproval.I think stories about families makes the story more relatable to non skinheads who are interested in the subject.
     

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