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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Lasttye

    Lasttye Distinguished Member

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    If I'm not mistaken that's a four-button hacking jacket - lovely jacket nevertheless. Some mod suits in the earlier 60s did have 4 buttons.
    The jacket is a Hacking jacket worn when riding a horse, this is where the slanted pockets come from, as it would be easy to get into the pockets when in the saddle. The Mod suit was influenced by the Italian look, padded wider shoulders, short jacket, two, to three button, Trousers would be narrow and flat fronted. their are a few pics of the Kray Twins in suits which gives one a idea. The Skinhead suit would be long down to thumb tips, Three slanted pockets, narrow lapels, narrow shoulders, 3 button, well waisted , one rear vent 12ins and longer, four buttons on sleeves. Trousers would be 18,to 18.5 parallel , Ticket pocket right front, and flapped, two rear pockets also flapped, Around our way.. we had creases finishing into pleats turned inwards, with a dart each side, Length would be above the ankle. The waist had zipped side a justers. Materials would be Mohair, Mohair Tonik, Prince of Wales check, and Dog tooth. To me Teds was the Original Skinheads, Working Class.
     


  2. Lasttye

    Lasttye Distinguished Member

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    This is my Hacking jacket, Never been on a horse in my life Lol [​IMG]
     


  3. browniecj

    browniecj Distinguished Member

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    This is my Hacking jacket, Never been on a horse in my life Lol

    [​IMG]


    Nice one Lasttye,not many Fields around your Manor![​IMG]
     


  4. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Distinguished Member

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    This is my Hacking jacket, Never been on a horse in my life Lol

    Nice threads!
     


  5. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Distinguished Member

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    ... a few pics of the Kray Twins in suits which gives one a idea.

    Forget absolutely everything else about the Krays for a minute and check out their style in clothes. They had that.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A mate of mine and I once had a b/w photo taken by a professional photographer - bloody wish I could find it! - he didn't like his subjects to smile for the camera. We were both wearing suits. I thought this would please my mum. She took one look at the photo and said, "You look like the Kray Brothers."

    On another occasion when 'Cockney Bob' and I were going out somewhere and we both had Levi jeans and Levi jackets on, she said, "I see you both went to the same Borstal."

    My mum - let's face it - did not like mod and skinhead fashions. Full stop.
     


  6. Lasttye

    Lasttye Distinguished Member

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    Great Pics MoM, Still laughing what your Mum said.. so true, My mum said we looked like little old Men.
    Yes the Krays had style, The Italian look was popular with my Brother and Uncles. I remember my Uncle always going on about his Tailor, He said the C*nt can never get the shoulders right lol, But he still kept going back there lol.
     


  7. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    Trousers would be 18,to 18.5 parallel

    To me Teds was the Original Skinheads, Working Class.


    The current-day skinhead suit trouser would be 15-16 bottoms, much more tapered than 18 which is straight legged for most. I'm sure you see the more tapered bottoms at 'dos you go to moreso than parallels (at least that is how it looks in most pics I've seen). Obviously that is more of a carryover from a mod aesthetic, did no one back in your original days wear a more tapered stride after 1968?

    agree with the bit about original Teds. there is a lot of similarity from original skinhead/teds to 1970s Skin/Ted Revival when more extreme elements of the original style became the norm
     


  8. Lasttye

    Lasttye Distinguished Member

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    Think you are right Jason, 8 which is 16 rather than 18.

    Just to add.. measured a couple of my current suit bottoms. 8.5 and as parallel as i can get away with these days, due to bigger thighs.
     


  9. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Senior Member

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    My mum - let's face it - did not like mod and skinhead fashions. Full stop.

    That made me smile! My mother still goes on about the way I dress "why don't you wear something that makes you look 'pretty'"! She hates my hair!

    I do remember reading comments about some parents who liked the Skinhead look as it was 'clean' and tidy, with short hair - anything but them dreaded hippies!
     


  10. Little Queenie

    Little Queenie Senior Member

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    Was it anything to do with the working class in the late 50's getting 'ideas above our station'? After all we had won the bloody war, endured bombing, rationing etc and now we wanted some of the good times? It took a time for the shock and scars of the war to fade and by the 50's, with consumerism, hp, more money about and the creation of 'the teenager' we wanted to look better than the gents and the toffs, even if we didn't have their wealth. I think it was us sticking our fingers up at them

    Maybe I'm just trying to make this working class pride* thing fit. I'm still a bit touchy about being classed as a 'chav' [​IMG]



    *I know it's a cliche but it's true.


    I like that, Bunty - why should good clothes be the preserve of the wealthy? A lot of really posh people are absolute tramps, anyway!
     


  11. Brideshead

    Brideshead Senior Member

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    Nice jacket Lasttye

    As Bunty says somehow we have managed to change up a gear or two of late. Most of that was down to the thought-provoking post from M-o-M exploring the conservative v. modern theme.

    I want to pick up another point raised in that same post. To quote M-o-M:
    "˜By contrast, the 'pop' fashions of the day looked back to earlier eras - the 1920s (The Temperance Seven), 20s/30s gangster chic with double-breasted jackets, Edwardian military uniform, Regency dandyism.'

    It is just that last couple of words that I want to focus on. By Regency dandyism I take it we mean the style attributed to George Bryan Brummell and his circle. As we know, Beau Brummell took what was previously country wear and turned it into super-smart town wear. It was a look so simple that not a great deal has been written about it. We know from the great Beau's biographers that:

    Brummell's style was in fact simplicity, but simplicity of the most studied kind. Lord Byron defined it, "a certain exquisite propriety of dress."

    To the Dandy "˜everybody looked overdressed or badly dressed-some, indeed, looked positively dirty-beside him. His clothes seemed to melt into each other with the perfection of their cut and the quiet harmony of their colour'

    His taste in matter of virtu was one of the sources of his profusion; but it always had a reference to himself. He evidently preferred a snuff-box which he could display in his hand, to a Raphael which he could exhibit only on his wall.

    It is the pleasure of causing surprise in others, and the proud satisfaction of never showing any oneself. A dandy may be blasÃ[​IMG], he may even suffer pain, but in the latter case he will keep smiling.....

    Sound familiar? I wonder, is it the traditional skinhead that is a spiritual successor? When we consider that the Dandy rarely had a fortune, was often born into a lowly family and lived by his wits and self confidence alone we start to see even greater parallels. Dandyism is of course a way of life whereas being a skinhead only lasted a year or two. Or did it?

    Anyway I thought it a comparison worth exploring.....
     


  12. browniecj

    browniecj Distinguished Member

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    Nice jacket Lasttye

    As Bunty says somehow we have managed to change up a gear or two of late. Most of that was down to the thought-provoking post from M-o-M exploring the conservative v. modern theme.

    I want to pick up another point raised in that same post. To quote M-o-M:
    "˜By contrast, the 'pop' fashions of the day looked back to earlier eras - the 1920s (The Temperance Seven), 20s/30s gangster chic with double-breasted jackets, Edwardian military uniform, Regency dandyism.'

    It is just that last couple of words that I want to focus on. By Regency dandyism I take it we mean the style attributed to George Bryan Brummell and his circle. As we know, Beau Brummell took what was previously country wear and turned it into super-smart town wear. It was a look so simple that not a great deal has been written about it. We know from the great Beau's biographers that:

    Brummell's style was in fact simplicity, but simplicity of the most studied kind. Lord Byron defined it, "a certain exquisite propriety of dress."

    To the Dandy "˜everybody looked overdressed or badly dressed-some, indeed, looked positively dirty-beside him. His clothes seemed to melt into each other with the perfection of their cut and the quiet harmony of their colour'

    His taste in matter of virtu was one of the sources of his profusion; but it always had a reference to himself. He evidently preferred a snuff-box which he could display in his hand, to a Raphael which he could exhibit only on his wall.

    It is the pleasure of causing surprise in others, and the proud satisfaction of never showing any oneself. A dandy may be blasÃ[​IMG], he may even suffer pain, but in the latter case he will keep smiling.....

    Sound familiar? I wonder, is it the traditional skinhead that is a spiritual successor? When we consider that the Dandy rarely had a fortune, was often born into a lowly family and lived by his wits and self confidence alone we start to see even greater parallels. Dandyism is of course a way of life whereas being a skinhead only lasted a year or two. Or did it?

    Anyway I thought it a comparison worth exploring.....

    I thought that,when I used to put my "Whistle"on.Seriously Mate,very interesting read about Mr.Brummell-did he not die destitute?
     


  13. Brideshead

    Brideshead Senior Member

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    He did die in poverty and was 'insane' too. He died in France in 1840 having fled there to escape his creditors in 1816. Some say he did briefly return to London in 1822.

    Lots about him of course on Dandyism.net
     


  14. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    some good stuff there Brideshead, interesting comparison of Brummell's dandy with original skinhead and there def are parallels in the dynamics and intent of both. of course the comparison could even be more evident if you compare Teds with dandys as I've always seen 1950s Teddy Boys as being the closest 20th century incarnation, in look and spirit. We might be getting a bit too intellectual in analyzing the driving forces behind the various "clothing cults" but it definitely adds an interesting tangent for discussion.
     


  15. Brideshead

    Brideshead Senior Member

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    some good stuff there Brideshead, interesting comparison of Brummell's dandy with original skinhead and there def are parallels in the dynamics and intent of both. of course the comparison could even be more evident if you compare Teds with dandys as I've always seen 1950s Teddy Boys as being the closest 20th century incarnation, in look and spirit. We might be getting a bit too intellectual in analyzing the driving forces behind the various "clothing cults" but it definitely adds an interesting tangent for discussion.

    Yes, I agree Jason Teds probably are the closest. It was something about the beautiful simplicty of both Dandy and Skinhead that really struck me.

    Perhaps we should get back to something simpler and drop the intellectual!
     


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