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Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Man, that's awesome. you don't happen to have a large copy of do you?

    No, The bloke said on his blog that its been in his loft for Years and only rediscovered it.
     


  2. Jean-Jacques

    Jean-Jacques Member

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    About the braces, I saw most of the skinheads in my area and further used 3/4 inch braces - easier to find - and of course plain, for the same reason.
    I've been looking for some 1/2inch braces on the net - impossible to find in regular shops - but not plain ones, too classical.
    Warrior sell checked 1/2 inch braces and I've got one pair. It's really bad quality.
    And the only interesting one I've found is pirate 69 streetwear.

    [​IMG]

    It appears that all the "interesting" ones are sold-out.

    Do you guys wear necessarily plain braces? Or with stripes, etc?
    Adresses, websites and pictures are welcome, of course.

    About braces again, some lads wear them with the "back cross" very low, at something like 1 or 2 inches from the trousers - I've always seen in old pictures that "cross" worn very high, or at middle-distance. How about it?
     


  3. Alex Roest

    Alex Roest Senior member

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    As one of the 'Class of 69' I have been bemoaning the fact that very little, if anything, exists from 'inside', and that what has been written from the outside-looking-in hasn't been all that helpful.

    Hello MoM,

    This thread has been brought to my attention (again) by Brideshead and I liked your contributions a lot. As the author of 'Suedeheads' (which I reworked into 'Where Mod Went Next' to be included in an updated version of The Sharper Word) I've recommended both 'The button-down types' (to be found within 'The Soul Stylists') and Kevin Rowland's essay 'The great lost look' (to be found within 'The look'). Now the interviewees in the former piece as well as KR were originals too, so I'd be interested in any possible criticism on those writings. All the best,

    Alex
     


  4. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Just got back from London...

    Just got back from Venice...

    [​IMG]

    What a place! Have you any idrea what it feels like being the least stylish guy in town?
     


  5. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Hello MoM,

    This thread has been brought to my attention (again) by Brideshead and I liked your contributions a lot. As the author of 'Suedeheads' (which I reworked into 'Where Mod Went' to be included in an updated version of The Sharper Word) I've recommended both 'The button-down types' (to be found within 'The Soul Stylists') and Kevin Rowland's essay 'The great lost look' (to be found within 'The look'). Now the interviewees in the former piece as well as KR were originals too, so I'd be interested in any possible criticism on those writings. All the best,

    Alex


    Hi Alex. Let me know how to get hold of them (I am sure someone told me about them before, but I have a memory like Swiss cheese) and I shall.

    M-o-M
     


  6. Alex Roest

    Alex Roest Senior member

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  7. Alex Roest

    Alex Roest Senior member

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    The thing about skinhead girls in the 1960s was that they were very feminine and very stylish. There was very little of imitating boys' fashions, with the exception of button-down-collar shirts (see below, usually Ben Sherman or Brutus short-sleeved). When a girl did imitate a boy - for example I knew one girl who wore a brutus shirt and Levi Sta-Prest trousers - she still managed to look feminine, in her hairstyle, makeup, shoes (that girl had a pair of small penny loafers as I recall), and the way she wore the clothes (the shirt, being waisted, emphasised her bust; and the strides fitted well to her hips).

    The hallmark of a skinhead girl was the suit. Imagine the earlier style of the Jackie Kennedy Suit, but with a short skirt, mini-length, and in Tonik mohair by Dormeuil, or subtle Prince-of-Wales check, or (if the girl couldn't afford mohair) in Trevira. The skirts were fairly uniform in style, being plain, unpleated minis. The jackets were well-tailored and in several styles; they could reach down to the hem of the skirt, like a frock coat, or they could be waist-length like a Spanish traje corto, or anything in between. I saw one or two jackets which were "baby doll" line, but mainly they would be waisted. There was no standard pattern for lapels, and jackets could even be lapel-less. There was more freedom of style than in boys' jackets. Girls did not, however, wear boys' jackets or (as far as I can remember) jackets styled specifically to imitate boys'.

    Suits would be worn perhaps with a Ben Sherman or Brutus shirt, usually of a plain colour and most usually white, though sometimes a check shirt; but as often a slim, fitted, round-necked, lambswool sweater would be worn.

    Tights would usually be sheer and with a sheen, although sometimes white ribbed tights would be worn.

    Shoes would usually be penny loafers, maybe with a rather clumpy heel, but always feminine in style. I can also remember a shoe called "Diabla" (can't remember whether it was from Dolcis or Russell and Bromley), which had a higher heel (but not a stiletto) and round toes - it was dark red, very stylish, very sexy - which came into vogue in 1969. I do not recall much, if any, wearing of bots or other boys' styles.

    I do not recall any girl wearing a Fred Perry.

    The way modern/revival skinhead girls have their hair is wrong. They have the general idea with the shortness and the wispy pieces, but it is put together wrong. The late 60s "centre crop" for girls, although based on a very short top and sides, was more layered toward the wispy side and back pieces. Importantly, the front fringe came over the face in an arch - that's a look I have seen no modern girl achieve. It was a very sexy style.

    How would I fault modern/revival skinhead girls? With all due respect, thus: too belligerent, not enough style, not enough femininity, too much copying of the guys' look.


    Excellent stuff that! Shame about the lack of pics available indeed, would have liked to use one for the 'Suedeheads' essay but had to use the 'Smoothie' pic taken from 'Spirit of '69' instead:

    [​IMG]

    http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/suedeheads
     


  8. Alex Roest

    Alex Roest Senior member

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    I am sure someone told me about them before, but I have a memory like Swiss cheese

    I'm slowly catching up and just noticed that person was Jason i.e. the 'Peanuts' piece on page 49.
     


  9. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    I'm slowly catching up and just noticed that person was Jason i.e. the 'Peanuts' piece on page 49.


    here it is again, from page 49
    Speaking of Rowland, and he has some good insights on the matter being in the thick of it all in the 60s, here's some bits from Paul Gorman's "The Look" (I editted what I typed for content and relevancy)....on skinheads in the 60s. It's a good amount of reading but worth it I think.

    from Kevin Rowland:

    "Peanuts" was the only word I heard used to describe them, pre-1969. It was a mod thing to begin with, and definitely came out of that. "Top mod" used to be a compliment, as in "That's Smart" - I can remember someone saying that about a Van Heusen shirt of mine as early as 1966.

    A more casual rig-out in about 1967 was what was called a "zipper jacket", in a navy shiny synthetic fabric or occasionally dark brown suede. They had elasticized cuffs and collar and was basically an MA-1 flying jacket, worn with knitted shirt underneath and new-ish Levis navy blue 501. Sometimes suits were worn, or just the jacket with a pair of Levis. The jackets were long, 3 button, and only the top button was done up, maybe the top 2. The jacket had single 9inch or 12inch vent and was waisted. There would be a breast pocket and 3 outside pockets with sloping flaps, about an inch and a half to 2" high.

    That year (1968) it started to get really American. One or two of the smart dressers had off-centre 6-7inch vents in their jacket, patch pockets with straight flaps, and raised edges on all the seams. They took the look on to a new level of Ivy League sophistication.

    Some boys had their hair shaved off completely. This wasnt a numbskull look, as reported in the media, but a sophisticated fashion statement that only few could understand. Middle aged, conservative and all-American, the same as astronauts and GIs. Against the backdrop of London in 1969, it was completely and utterly outrageous.

    When I first saw a pair of wing tip Royals (aka Longwing brogue), I was shocked because I'd been told I was being taken to this shop where the smartest dressers went. Up to that point, fashionable meant dainty and petite, but these shoes were awkward looking with great big soles and heels. They were ugly but I also recognized they were beautiful. They were outrageously expensive too, 6+ quid, a week's wages for lots of men. The shoes turned me on it was such a clean and beautiful look.

    After that day in October 1968 I would see the occasional guy who had this subtle American look, but then it all came together in the summer of 1969. We knew we were a part of something big and powerful. We danced good - often all in a line, wearing harringtons with collars up over American style shirts, sta-prest trousers with braces and brogues, loafers and gibsons, all boys no girls. This seemed the best way to pull girls, just dance good and usually they would come near.

    I think the first newspaper article about all this was in The Daily Mirror in late summer 1969. I'd only heard the name skinhead once previously. A really well dressed kid from Richmond said it to another short haired youth. It was a jokey slightly derogatory term, nothing serious. A cartoon figure dressed in white tshirt, braces, jeans and big boots featured in the Mirror article headed something like "This is a skinhead" While it was nice to be recognized as part of something, it was misrepresented, and that ruined it basically.

    By winter of 1969, some of the better dressed boys wore trilbys and 3/4 length sheepskins. In fact, smart dressers had sheepskins in winter of '68, or they wore navy Crombie overcoats over Prince of Wales check suits, or maybe a cardigan.

    I saw my first grown out skinhead in the late summer of 1970. He was wearing wingtips, parallel trousers and a Ben Sherman shirt, but his hair was long. The writing was on the wall. Everything was changing....but what really pissed me off is that the cool and more subtle American look I mentioned above died before it had been given a chance to grow. This was the great lost look.
     


  10. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Worth repeating, Jason.

    [BTW you should have seen the clobber on sale in Venice!]
     


  11. John Boy

    John Boy Member

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    Hi, I've just read the whole of this thread (133 pages) in two days and found it fascinating. I've been dressing as a skin/suedehead for some time now.

    I was wondering however, with the summer months approaching, what gear would be good to invest in e.g. a jacket and what shoes should I purchase for the hot days ahead??
     


  12. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    ^^ first, to me, it seems like the UK never gets that hot in the summer. You guys talk about a heat wave when it's 90 degrees [​IMG] I wish our summers only got to 90...

    i might be a weirdo, but even in 100+ weather I wear the same shoes I do in winter...DMs, brogues, etc. For the most part I wear the same clothes, jeans, buttondowns....more tshirts than normal of course. i NEVER wear shorts unless it's a pair of cut off camo's for lounging around the house. but most skinhead types would probably wear Adidas sambas since that seems to be the "approved" sneaker of skinhead-dom. [​IMG]

    far as jacket....dont see why a monkey jacket, harrington or denim jacket wouldnt work well in summer if there's a slight chill. But just the fact that you might need a summer jacket means it cant get that hot, our summers in SoCal...no way you would want to put on a jacket even in middle of the night. [​IMG]
     


  13. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    [BTW you should have seen the clobber on sale in Venice!]

    so you get anything?
     


  14. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    so you get anything?

    At Venice prices? You're having a laugh!
     


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