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Mixing bias, straight, perpendicular pattern

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by faustian bargain, Jul 26, 2004.

  1. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    What are your thoughts on using the bias in men's shirts? Does anyone like the 'mixed' look, i.e. straight cut on the body, biased on the yoke, cuffs, etc. ? How about being totally biased? [​IMG] I have a striped shirt that's all diagonal, which I like very much. The stripes are small and close, though, so I wonder what it's like with larger bold stripes? Where would you rank diagonals in the formal-to-casual hierarchy? /andrew - today I am unbiased.
     
  2. VWpete

    VWpete Senior member

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    Straight diagonals are much more casual. I use em w/ jeans and definately not w/ a suit and tie (save the diags for your rep ties.). Check out my post in your favorite clothes section if you want to see my favorite wide-striped shirt by Etro. I like them, but they are beginning to be overdone in the mass market.
    Peter
     
  3. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    With striped fabrics I like everything cut "regularly." Only one exception: I always like to have the yoke split and matched up in the middle at an angle to form a chevron. I much prefer the look of a "chevron" yoke to a yoke with the stripes going horizontally.
     
  4. BGW

    BGW Senior member

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    I think they would have to be the most casual by a huge margin.

    I would add horizontal stripes to the discussion. I seem to remember Michael Douglas wearing a horizontally striped dress shirt in Wall Street, but you rarely see them any more.
     
  5. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    how about checks? i've seen the yoke done on the bias with checks. any thought on that look? is it strange to have the cuffs on the bias too?
     
  6. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I have an Etro shirt in white with horizontal light blue and tan stripes (fairly thin and wide-spaced stripes). It seemed a little unusual at first, but it really grew on me. Kind of 'goes against the grain' with the whole vertical stripe supertrend.

    I'll post a pic as soon as I feel motivated enough.
     
  7. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    I had a Jantzen shirt done with vertical stripes and a bias cut on the cuff. I like the look, though it's not really far out from normal. The fabric itself is pretty unconventional though: instead of your standard straight lines, the stripes have somewhat of a color gradient thing going. It's hard to describe, maybe I'll post a pic sometime.
     
  8. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    yes, i've seen a couple of those gradient-stripes on jantzen's site, and was wondering how they looked in a full shirt.

    in fact if anyone has some pix of interesting stripes/checks, especially from jantzen, i'd love to see them.

    /andrew - gathering inspiration for the next order
     

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