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Minnis fresco or mohair for unlined suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by macaroni, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    It is going to be my first quarterlind suit. I'm planing SB 3 btts roll to two, patch pockets (not sure about double stitching on pockets).

    I'd rather go for fresco for it's informal feel but I'm concerned about durability. What is longevity of the stitches on this loose wave? Do you guys have any experiences with fresco and mohair (25% by John Foster) and can give me some comparison?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2016
  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fresco is more durable than mohair in my experience. The heavier stuff is like iron.
     
  3. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mohair is woven so densely that there is no point in getting it unlined. I speak from experience.
     
  4. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Mohair is woven so densely that there is no point in getting it unlined. I speak from experience.

    Manton, could you elaborate on this?
    What I'm interpreting is that since mohair is so densely woven, there is no real increase in breathability between it being lined and unlined. Am I right to assume this?
     
  5. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    It is going to be my first quarterlind suit. I'm planing SB 3 btts roll to two, patch pockets (not sure about double stitching on pockets).

    I'd rather go for fresco for it's informal feel but I'm concerned about durability. What is longevity of the stitches on this loose wave? Do you guys have any experiences with fresco and mohair (25% by John Foster) and can give me some comparison?


    I have had the opportunity to purchase and handle Minnis fresco (never wore it though -- traded it off) and the 25% mohair by John Foster.

    The fresco is somewhat thicker (even the lightest Minnis fresco), with a porous weave and slightly rough handle. The dye has significant variation/"mottling", which makes it much more casual.

    The mohair however, is a more formal fabric, with a more even dye and darker colors. It is thin and translucent under light, though nowhere as porous as the fresco. It is much crisper, with a hand that can seem very slightly "scratchy" and the slightest of sheens to it.
     
  6. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    The fresco is somewhat thicker (even the lightest Minnis fresco), with a porous weave and slightly rough handle. The dye has significant variation/"mottling", which makes it much more casual.


    The casual look of fresco is what I like about the cloth. I was only concern about durability. I read somewhere that fresco will not hold crease well. Any thought on that?
     
  7. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    The casual look of fresco is what I like about the cloth. I was only concern about durability. I read somewhere that fresco will not hold crease well. Any thought on that?

    I think it should hold a crease alright. I am told that the fresco tends to acquire a bit of "fuzziness" with wear but have no personal experience with it tailored into a suit.
     
  8. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't have any that is as much as ten years old but I wear have several things from Minnis fresco as well as a couple mohair and wool suits (Scabal and H&S). They all hold a crease fine and none shows any unusual signs of wear.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. macaroni

    macaroni Senior member

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    Will, thanks. That solves my dilemma. Frsco it will be.
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These two cloths have such different characteristics and finishes. Choose the cloth for the style of suit you want and then decide if want it unlined.

    When unlined I have noticed white shirts showing thru on the back parts due to the openness and loose weave of the Fresco. I use black canvass for dark frescoes to avoid the lighter color of canvass showing thru.
     
  11. Naturlaut II

    Naturlaut II Senior member

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    I have tried Minnis, Finmeresco, and Crispaire. The Minnis are hardwearing, the Crispaire are quite crisp; I find Finmeresco most "casual" in the sense that it really doesn't hold a crease as well as the others. However, the 12oz is an honest-to-god summer fabric and I really can't complain much when I can wear a whole suit outside under the heat of the midday sun. The Minnins are airy but are heavier, hence not at all something you'd like to wear in 90F+ temperature. The Crispaire are nice but scratchy, however it does hold a crease well and so I actually use the black for my concert suit.

    One warning: do not get lining lighter than the fabric color. As the weave is completely open, when you are taking photos with flash you can actually see all the way into the lining. Opt for a darker lining, possibly even in the sleeves.
     
  12. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    The Minnins are airy but are heavier, hence not at all something you'd like to wear in 90F+ temperature.
    Haven't try it yet but I can imagine. 15OZ wool fabrics for summer...probably no.[​IMG]
     
  13. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Haven't try it yet but I can imagine. 15OZ wool fabrics for summer...probably no.[​IMG]

    Haha, I just had my 1st fitting yesterday on 15oz 3-ply Minnis Fresco.
     
  14. Naturlaut II

    Naturlaut II Senior member

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    Haha, I just had my 1st fitting yesterday on 15oz 3-ply Minnis Fresco.

    Great for the humid weather in HK right now. Not too hot yet but the airiness will keep you cool.
     
  15. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Great for the humid weather in HK right now. Not too hot yet but the airiness will keep you cool.

    You guys are incredible and crazy.
     
  16. Naturlaut II

    Naturlaut II Senior member

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    You guys are incredible and crazy.

    I invite you to come to Hong Kong for spring break.

    On a different note, I have hardly seen RTW makers use fresco/finmeresco/crispaire. Mohair yes, but not fresco.
     
  17. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    On a different note, I have hardly seen RTW makers use fresco/finmeresco/crispaire. Mohair yes, but not fresco.


    Truely
     
  18. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    I invite you to come to Hong Kong for spring break.

    On a different note, I have hardly seen RTW makers use fresco/finmeresco/crispaire. Mohair yes, but not fresco.


    I've worked there two summers already and visit regularly during the calendar New Year. You guys must be much cooler than I [​IMG]

    Well, I guess it might be okay in the cooler months. But ehhhhhhhhh
     
  19. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    I've worked there two summers already and visit regularly during the calendar New Year. You guys must be much cooler than I [​IMG]

    Well, I guess it might be okay in the cooler months. But ehhhhhhhhh


    I would just said don't wear a suit at all when it is 30+C/90+F. [​IMG]
     
  20. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    I would just said don't wear a suit at all when it is 30+C/90+F. [​IMG]

    I remember taking very complicated walks through all the indoor overhead paths in Central to avoid ever stepping out of air conditioning for more than 2 minutes.

    When do you intend to wear your 15oz fresco?
     

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