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Mildly Unsoporific Tie Porn

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 16, 2010.

  1. mrchapel

    mrchapel Senior member

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    ^ Good question. To me soporific = solids, very small neats or tone-on-tone patterns. Dull silk or softer wool/cashmere for extra snooze points. Unsoporific is easy = bright colors, high contrast patterns, shinier silks. This mild middle way is more difficult to gauge.

    Here's a tonal stripe in a dull silk/wool. I think it's too loud to be soporific. Maybe it's mildly unsoporofic.

    [​IMG]


    Nice. Who made this tie?
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  3. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Vox,who made the grenadines in the first picture? Don't say that it is Marinella.
     


  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Vox,who made the grenadines in the first picture? Don't say that it is Marinella.

    Those are Hober lined six-folds.

    - B
     


  5. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Those are Hober lined six-folds.

    - B


    Cool,are the grenadines chunky,what kind of knots do they make? Have any pictures worn? I like the first set.
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Cool,are the grenadines chunky,what kind of knots do they make? Have any pictures worn? I like the first set.

    I'm not sure that David Hober can make a tie that doesn't knot well. He will want to know what your favorite knot is, though, before making you a tie.

    [​IMG]

    OTH, I don't recall having problems knotting any tie in the way that I like, except that I have to use a Small Knot with some ties, partcularly thick knits, just to keep the knot size civilized.


    - B
     


  7. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    Foo, would this count? Or is it too... wild? It was a recent B&S acquisition. [​IMG] And of course, the complete collection would be the exact opposite of non-soporific. Although the blue one is rather mild. [​IMG]
     


  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    They all suck.
     


  9. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    They all suck.

    Why thank you.
     


  10. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Vox,who made the grenadines in the first picture? Don't say that it is Marinella.
    Those are Hober lined six-folds.
    Here's a Marinella grenadine:

    [​IMG]

    Most likely made with the same Fermo Fossati silk as Hober's, but here merely as a small-timer 3-fold.
     


  11. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Here's a Marinella grenadine:

    [​IMG]

    Most likely made with the same Fermo Fossati silk as Hober's, but here merely as a small-timer 3-fold.


    It looks too chunky,how does it knot?
     


  12. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    It looks too chunky,how does it knot?

    Actually I feel the knot it makes is too small (I only use a FIH) but that's my own fault for ordering a slimmer tie, I guess (it's only 7cm).

    I hadn't thought through that a slimmer blade would translate to a slimmer strip of silk at the knotting point.

    That probably doesn't always have to the case but with this tie it is.

    Also, I think I prefer less chunky ties overall, so maybe grenadines aren't for me - I expect an unlined 6-fold would be equally chunky.

    Does anyone have experience with Drakes' grenadines?
     


  13. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Kaplan,

    Your grenadine is beautiful. I think I remember that you ordered it on a vacation not too long ago.

    And yes, when having a tie made you need to mention the knot type & size so that your bespoke tie maker can adjust the shape of the tie in the neck/knot area.

    You can have your knot size and width at the widest part of the tie as you please.

    I would not suggest using no interlining with a grenadine. Shaping the tie would be the best way to alter your knot in this case. You can ask for a thinner interlining.

    Drakes also uses beautiful silks for their interlinings.
     


  14. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    David that's right, it's the Marinella I've posted earlier from my trip to Napoli last year (the original thread is here), where I per your request inquired at Marinella about where they source their grenadine silks from.

    When ordering I did mention that I would be using a FIH knot, but it didn't occur to me to specify how wide I would need it to be at the knotting point - and they didn't ask. As it is it's servicable, but it does taper a bit too much for my taste.

    On another note, going by this write-up at Drakes 'The original and only true grenadine woven on vintage wooden looms' an the (small) pics, it seems that their grenadine is the same as yours and Marinellas - do you know?

    I guess the Drakes are lined 3-folds and probably quite substantial. Like I mentioned above, I think I prefer a tie with less body, but I do like the look of this Light Chocolate one.

    When you say 'shaping the tie', are you talking about recrafting it or about what to look out for for future orders?
     


  15. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    "On another note, going by this write-up at Drakes 'The original and only true grenadine woven on vintage wooden looms' an the (small) pics, it seems that their grenadine is the same as yours and Marinellas - do you know?"

    "I guess the Drakes are lined 3-folds and probably quite substantial. Like I mentioned above, I think I prefer a tie with less body, but I do like the look of this Light Chocolate one."

    Kaplan,

    My memory is still good - thanks again for asking questions for me.

    The width at the knotting point is not something that you need to specify instead subjectively you should say - "I would like a small or large knot..." Keep in mind what is a large knot for one man is a normal knot for another and so on...

    This is an example of why I say that listening by the maker is the biggest part of bespoke clothing making. A good example of high level listening is a good doctor or tax accountant. They know what questions to ask based on what they hear you saying.

    "When you say 'shaping the tie', are you talking about recrafting it or about what to look out for for future orders?"

    I am speaking in general about bespoke tie making. Sadly it is unlikely that your tie will have extra silk in the neck area so it cannot be remade bigger. Smaller perhaps.

    You are an observant reader - yes Drakes, is using beautiful Fermo Fossati silk. Their ties will likely be the same thickness as your Marinelli. Drakes is a good company with many classic silks and they have a MTM tie program which they call "bespoke" so they may be able to adjust an interlining for you.

    As for colors, it is hard to see from a website in real life it could be any of these three Fermo Fossati grenadines from our website. We carry all their solids and are working currently on some new stripes with a navy warp.


    Chocolate


    [​IMG]


    Dark Chocolate:

    [​IMG]


    Bitter chocolate:

    [​IMG]

    As for overall weight we would tend to go with a lighter wool interlining and then adjust the pattern in the neck/knot area as needed.
     


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