Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jun 21, 2012.
And here is the velvet:
I like that much more than the DB.
If you are thinking of letting the sleeves out, sooner is better than later with velvet. I assume that's not an old-school silk velvet...if cotton, the sleeves will (1) sit even shorter with wear as the sleeves wrinkle at the elbow and (2) potentially...this seems to vary...can have a bit of shrinking from cleaning.
I could do with lower peaks on the lapels, but c'est la vie.
Thanks for the thoughts, FC. On the sleeves, I was thinking I'd be wearing this exclusively at night, almost exclusively with white shirts, and quite often with French cuffs. In all these situations, I prefer to show a little more cuff. Right now I like it, but I'll keep a careful eye on the wrinkling when I wear it out tonight, its maiden voyage.
The peaks are indeed high, but again this is exactly as I requested. Mina actually double checked with me because not everyone likes them this high, although it is her preferred style for peaks as well.
Also, a note on the fabric - yes, it is cotton velvet, from Ariston. The photographs don't even come close to capturing the fabric. But it's the same as in this jacket, from Patrick Johnson:
I like that velvet. Possibly the lowest buttoning point I've seen on an NSM coat!
Additional note - the buttons are a gorgeous navy mother of pearl that I love as well.
I asked for this as well. I like the drama of a long lapel line running from a high peak lapel to a low buttoning point. Although it's really not THAT low - it's still above my belly button.
I like the idea of a DB cream linen jacket, and even moreso a suit, but that particular jacket seems a tad bit short - like it could use some skirt to balance out the shoulders. It may also be that the dark trousers you're modeling it with distort the perspective a bit. I do like the pocket shapes and the lapels.
I think it depends somewhat on preference. These DBs, for instance, look long to me:
Also I think it's somewhat difficult to judge jacket length without a full body shot. Unfortunately my camera skills suck and I don't have anybody to take pics for me, but I'll try to get a full body the next time I wear that jacket.
the linen db is sublime. Are you around 180cm? I think I should wear a close-fitting db being 187.
I'm between 6'1" and 6'2", so about the same height as you.
The Rubinacci store is found at the top of hill in Chiaia. Off the street you enter into a room displaying ties and pocket squares, although most of the squares are hidden away in drawers. The other rooms in the downstairs area include one with swimwear, one with RTW trousers and jackets, and finally, the fabric room, where bolts of fabric line the walls, ready to be deployed for bespoke orders.
Surprisingly, the gentleman who greeted me, while very nice and helpful, was one of the poorer dressed jacketed men I saw in Naples. Oh well. In any case, I first took a tour through the Rubinacci pocket square collection. Drawer after drawer, in various designs and colorways, appeared in front of me. Rubinacci pocket squares are quite distinctive. You get somewhat of a sense of it looking through their webstore, and pictures of elder and younger Rubinacci attire, but the colors are extremely vibrant. Almost all the designs are depictions of some place or occasion or person. I rather like the conception of a pocket square being a painting-in-your-pocket rather than a swatch of wallpaper or a mini-carpet. In any case, they also allow for a nice and varied mix of colors showing from the pocket when folded. I eventually singled out the 'Victory' pocket square, in a combination of rich navy, a golden yellow, and a sparkling-Mediterranean sea-fresh light blue, for likely purchase, and moved on to the knit ties.
A quick note - of the items available at both, some things are more expensive in the physical store than the online store, some things are less expensive. Knit ties are less expensive in the physical store. Pocket squares and shoes are less expensive online (although about the same after adding in shipping...their shipping costs seem to be somewhat irrational). In any case, the selection of knit ties is impressive. There's a lot to choose from, and not a dud in the bunch. They have some of the diagonal-weave knit ties (not sure what the right word is for these, but if you've seen them, you know what I mean) that I liked, but were too skinny for me. I ended up focusing on a green with wine spots and a brown with pink spots.
Seeing my indecision between the ties, the salesman volunteered that we take a tour around while I think about it, and of course I agreed. We did a quick tour through the rooms described above. The fabric room was obviously the most interesting, although I didn't get much time to look at individual fabrics. He then led me upstairs, where the workshops are. He showed me room after room, each dedicated to the manufacture of different garments. We walked past a large rack of bespoke orders which I wish I had more time to investigate. When we dipped into shirtmakers room, I saw a particularly extravagant piece on the top of the pile and inquired about it. It was a white shirt, no collar, but with a bib, as on a tuxedo shirt, that was covered in a loud silk print that looked like it could have come off of a Power Rangers lunchbox. We all agreed it was "un po' troppo", but hey, somebody asked for it.
Once we got downstairs, the salesman suggested that I have lunch at a nearby historic pizzeria (Brandi, for those who care) and then come back and make a decision on the ties and pocket squares. This was another of many episodes in which I found salespeople in Naples extremely and refreshingly laid back in their sales tactics. I don't think I've ever had a sales person in the United States actually advise that I leave the store and take some time to think it over. In any case, I took him up on his advice, and came back later, having decided to get both ties along with the pocket square. And one of them I'm wearing one of them today (Vanda pocket square in this pic was waiting for me when I got back to DC).
I like reading these accounts. I enjoy your writing style. Keep it up or travel more.
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