Midnight blue v Charcoal

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pauper, Feb 9, 2007.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Single breasted vest, just like a dinner jacket
    You would get a low front, three button vest with a lounge suit?
     


  2. pauper

    pauper New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Perhaps I mispoke when I said 'midnight blue.' I was browsing fabric swatches at the tailor's, and they had what looked like a standard navy color, and then a very dark blue. Same in gray: an easily distinguishable dark gray, then one even darker. I was drawn to both the darkest gray and the darkest blue he had in this particular wool, as I like dark suits (though I do not like the look of a black suit for some reason).

    So, which ever direction I decide to go in, those on this thread would recommend a double-breasted vest to go with it? Though I like peak lapels, how suitable are they for business-wear after the wedding. I am at a level of income where I can afford only one suit a year, to wear to interviews, etc. I'm looking for the suit for all occasions, and one that hopefully will last me quite a while.
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    You will rarely see a true midnight blue cloth in any swatch books other than the formal wear books. Off the top of my head, I can't think of one. However, there is nothing that says you can't order cloth from a formal book and make it into a suit as opposed to a dinner jacket. As has been said, midnight is so dark you can tell it from navy at a glance.

    I do prefer the double breasted vest with a formal suit, especially if you intend it for a wedding. It has a certain panache that an SB vest lacks, and is reminiscent of the formal vest worn with the stroller or morning coat.

    An SB peak suit is fine for business, but to be extra cautious, I might not get it if were to be (for the time being) my one really good suit. Notch will be slightly more versatile in business situations.
     


  4. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    You would get a low front, three button vest with a lounge suit?

    Thanks for the clarification question. I am recommending he get a six button vest as he'll get more wear from it.
     


  5. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

    Messages:
    2,533
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    A suit like this would look pretty good at a wedding. Though yes, a single breasted waistcoat is more versatile. It was more widely accepted in the past however.
     


  6. Tampan

    Tampan Senior member

    Messages:
    106
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Location:
    Asia
    Oscar Lenius, A Well Dressed Gentlemans Pocket Guide

    There's a whole guide for pockets? I am never going to keep up.
     


  7. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Matching is easier and safer. I suppose you could wear an off white linen odd vest with a charcoal suit. It's not exactly "canonical", but so what. However, you will find such a vest to be of limited usefulness after the wedding.
    Another option is a buff (yellowish/tan) coloured DB waistcoat. It is a traditional colour for morning dress but also less recognisable as a formal colour (compared to dove grey) for wear after the wedding. As far as a white or cream coloured waistcoat goes, I am going to have my tailor copy the waistcoat worn here by Arthur Nikisch (former Chief Conductor of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra): [​IMG] My tailor thinks it is made of flannel but trying to get off white/cream coloured flannel is pretty much impossible these days, so I am settling on a wool in a barathea weave. On the subject of lounge suits for weddings, as usual I must say I too am inclined to recommend that if a lounge suit must be worn at all, it should be made to look as much like ersatz formal dress as possible. The DB waistcoat has been mentioned. Still, if it were me I would go for a stroller and have both matching and formal striped trousers made: [​IMG] I really like the look of a SBPL lounge suit anyway. A single button coat would be my preference. It would even be wearable after the wedding with a buff coloured DB waistcoat.
     


  8. The Happy Stroller

    The Happy Stroller Senior member

    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2006
    OK, a woman is willing to marry you even though you are not rich, congratulations.

    You realize of course that a suit is not necessary in order to marry her.

    Probably the most versatile business suit is a navy blue or medium gray notch lapel single breasted suit for someone who aspires to be a junior executive. Black shoes recommended.

    The navy blue suit is non-threatening to most people, whereas the dark gray and dark blue suits project an image of authority, which you might only wish to project only if you are at top executive level or is of employer status.[​IMG]

    ...<snip>...
    Though I like peak lapels, how suitable are they for business-wear after the wedding. I am at a level of income where I can afford only one suit a year, to wear to interviews, etc. I'm looking for the suit for all occasions, and one that hopefully will last me quite a while.
     


  9. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Another option is a buff (yellowish/tan) coloured DB waistcoat. It is a traditional colour for morning dress but also less recognisable as a formal colour (compared to dove grey) for wear after the wedding.

    As far as a white or cream coloured waistcoat goes, I am going to have my tailor copy the waistcoat worn here by Arthur Nikisch (former Chief Conductor of the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra):

    [​IMG]

    My tailor thinks it is made of flannel but trying to get off white/cream coloured flannel is pretty much impossible these days, so I am settling on a wool in a barathea weave.


    Both Minnis and H&S have cream colored flannel if you want it. What color is the piping on the edges?
     


  10. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Both Minnis and H&S have cream colored flannel if you want it. What color is the piping on the edges?

    Hmmm interesting, Will... my tailor stocks H&S and we couldn't find it. Then again, it being Sydney and summer, he is not well stocked on winter weighted and flannel books.

    I looked carefully through the Minnis site as well (especially at their flannels) and came up sadly empty handed.

    I have guessed that the piping is black, although midnight blue would work just as well.
     


  11. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    It looks like an ecru.
     


  12. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    It looks like an ecru.

    Could be. An ecru flannel would be an absolute dream fabric for this waistcoat.
     


  13. xarope

    xarope Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2006
    Location:
    Singapore
    the point of midnight navy is that in some light it stays darker than black. if it is truely 'midnight' navy it will look like black from afar. you've probably seen it and didn't realize it.

    Agreed, midnight blue is black in appearance, and under most lighting it will look blacker than black (whereas black e.g. looks dark green under certain lighting)
     


  14. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Hmmm interesting, Will... my tailor stocks H&S and we couldn't find it. Then again, it being Sydney and summer, he is not well stocked on winter weighted and flannel books.

    I looked carefully through the Minnis site as well (especially at their flannels) and came up sadly empty handed.


    I am probably wrong about Minnis then but Dormeuil has it in a mid-weight cream #3101. HST stocks it in Singapore.

    Also H&S 752309 is white, 17 oz.

    772040 is cream, 11 oz. but it looks like they are out of it. It's a Victory from HS321 so it would have been costly.
     


  15. Sator

    Sator Senior member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Likes Received:
    29
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    I am probably wrong about Minnis then but Dormeuil has it in a mid-weight cream #3101. HST stocks it in Singapore.

    Also H&S 752309 is white, 17 oz.

    772040 is cream, 11 oz. but it looks like they are out of it. It's a Victory from HS321 so it would have been costly.


    Thanks Will. I'll take a look into that.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by