Menswear on Women

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 18, 2014.

  1. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    As has been pointed out by myself and a couple of others earlier in this thread, what we call "peacocking" is quite the norm in women's clothing.

    Women's clothing is typically more exaggerated than men's clothing - brighter flashes of colour (whether it be shirt, shoes, scarf, necklace, glasses or all of the above), more pinched waist, exaggerated shoulders and so on.

    Most women will *never* dress like men, even if they are wearing menswear-inspired clothes.

    I, for one, enjoy seeing women appropriating certain elements of menswear style but then adding a twist to it by adding colour or changing the form to better suit the female figure and the tenets of female fashion.
     
  2. conradwu

    conradwu Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    The only time when a Prada bag looks out of place on a woman [​IMG]
     
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    As a side topic, has anyone thought of why women afraid to look 'dated' and refrain from the 'elegant/sophisticated' look.

    I will have thought a good looking female in her early years, dressing in flawless tailored garment (not peacocky), will be subline and better than a typical 'trendy' look

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  4. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Where do her intestines go? (referring to the AA sketch).

    I do think a natural shoulder looks best on women. I especially like the jacket worn by one of the women add posted (glasses, tieless). Of course, I suppose it really depends on the body type.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2014
  5. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dismissing menswear on women would be dismissing like 60% of The late great Yves Saint Laurent's work


    HE is the reason I actually got into fashion

    This is his legacy

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    And there is Janelle Monae, who actually looks better in a suit than most men do

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    And when Solange is not beating up her Brother-In-Law, she is effing the game up in menswear duds


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    I think the issue with people seeing women in suits as wrong or costumey is that the suit in itself today is costumey. Most men don't wear it and when they do it is for some type of "EVENT".


    Today when I wear a suit it is as self expression. I would expect women who wear them to do the same.
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    ... I wouldn't go that far as to say suits are not the norm in the society...

    Those YSL stuff, although look dashing, lacks the refinement of the original 30s designer e.g. Balenciaga
     
  7. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ...


    ok
     
  8. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Feel free to DH this thread should it ever prove necessary.
     
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I shall explain myself better in the following manner:-

    I do not try to dispute the fact that YSL has successfully 'designed' lounge suiting for women. However, his designs are arguably pasting the building blocks for mens tailoring into women's design. Except the 30s lapels and the skinny trousers, I don't see anything that projects a lounge suit, designed and tailored in the women's perspective.

    If one look hard into a nicely made women's tailored garments, you will see the building blocks (cutting patterns) for women is a different game from mens. Because women's body are so vastly different across the board, different drafting methods has to be adopted (e.g. swelled darts, different lapel collar placement, york on lapels)

    Here are a few examples where I consider perfectly executed women's tailoring (all from Christian Dior). Even 'menswear on women' has to be designed in the female's spirit. On the other hand, I am sure most people will agree that 'pure women's wear on men' will be bad and plain weird.

    If some of you are interested in the topic of 'tailoring/menswear on women', I suggest you to browse though the women's discussion in 'cutter and tailor' forum.

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  10. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it may be time to discuss what defines "menswear on women" (mwow) and "womenswear inspired by menswear" (wwimw).

    MWOW:
    - Pants of at least a sonewhat masculine cut
    - Shirt intended to be worn with a tie

    WWIMW:
    - shirts that don't button to the top
    - anything with a skirt or dress
    - most blazers/suits sold at places like Anne Taylor and J Crew (the Clinton pantsuit)
     
  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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  12. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In case you didn't know, YSL took over DIor when CD died... at the age of 21. I am very sure he was capable of doing all the things you write above or else he wouldn't have been his successor.

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    Karl Lagerfeld and YSL at the Woolmark competition in 1954


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    YSL i more than just adopting mens clothing on women and "designing" lounge suits. That is pretty insulting. It is like calling Miles Davis just a trumpet player. . He simply translated the smoking to challenge the stereotypes of gender through androgynous silhouettes. Then again that was just one of his many contributions to fashion. He is basically the Miles Davis of Fashion while Dior is more like Duke Ellington.


    DIor was known mostly for the New Look which changed the game.


    YSL had so many other staples and iconic silhouttes. Many of them based on perfect tailoring techniques.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2014
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I appreciate your love towards YSL's work, he is certainly one of the top designer ever lived.

    Except women's dresswear, I can't think of any signature dress-suit design made by YSL, maybe the 30s lapel pants-suit but I don't think that counts.

    You should have post YSL's women Safari suit, that was a cool take on quasi-men's clothing.

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  14. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    HE didn't have one at least not one that is iconic as his other stuff, but that does not mean he could not do one to perfection. His early work at Dior and the pics I posted above should serve as his testament.


    As for dress suits, YSL and most of the 60s were moving away from that type of silhouette (Couregge, Pierre Cardin, etc). They were at an age of challenging the status quo and that is what his le smoking did. Alot of those smoking jackets are as well made and constructed as well as his past work and Dior's.
     
  15. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    and yes the Safari Jacket is another perfect example.

    HE has too many things to pul from [​IMG]
     

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