Men's pant rise

[Jaygatsby28]

I will be purchasing some pants and I wanted to get an opinion on pant rise. Mostly these pants will be for business casual attire.

I know rise has been discussed in the past, however no one gave a definitive number.

Rise: The measurement from the middle of the crotch (where the fabric is usually sewn together) to the top of the pants.

Below I have attached a photo of me in a pair of pants I ordered. The rise is 12" and I feel it is too high. What are your opinions.

I have been researching other suit designers...all the big names for young people. The craziest rise I have found is 9.5" from Theory but a great deal of the designers seem to be settling on 10.5-11".

I know that over in America we tend to wear our pants a little too low (the English, no doubt, know this). However, keep in mind I am 22 and want to look good, not like a middle aged man who has a wife and kids (not that there isn't anything wrong with that).

What is your general opinion? Should I order my next pants with a 10.5 or 11" rise? Let me know your opinion specifically about these pants.

Thank you!



http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...4305808&size=l

 

[j]

To me it looks like they are a bit tight across the front (horizontal buckling, pockets pulling a bit), and should be a little lower. But they don't look that high either. You might want to order the next waist size up, especially if you cut the rise on the next pair.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by Jaygatsby28

I will be purchasing some pants and I wanted to get an opinion on pant rise. Mostly these pants will be for business casual attired

I know rise has been discussed in the past, however no one gave a definitive number.

Rise: The measurement from the middle of the crotch (where the fabric is usually sewn together) to the top of the pants.

Below I have attached a photo of me in a pair of pants I ordered. The rise is 12" and I feel it is too high. What are your opinions.

I have been researching other suit designers...all the big names for young people. The craziest rise I have found is 9.5" from Theory but a great deal of the designers seem to be settling on 10.5-11".

I know that over in America we tend to wear our pants a little too low (the English, no doubt, know this). However, keep in mind I am 22 and want to look good, not like a middle aged man who has a wife and kids (not that there isn't anything wrong with that).

What is your general opinion? Should I order my next pants with a 10.5 or 11" rise? Let me know your opinion specifically about these pants.

Thank you!



http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne...4305808&size=l


tailors measure the rise by subtracting the inseam from the outseam. this gives you your true rise. measure the trousers that suit you best and add or subtract what you wish to change if you think its too deep or too short.
measureing on the curved seam is not the true rise.
in the picture the seat measure looks tight.
but it the front of the pant could be cut with a dip in the center front. thats because you wear the pant low in front instead of horozontaly as you should.

 

[Jaygatsby28]

Thanks for the response. I don't really have a pair of pants that fits me perfectly. So, unfortunately I don't have anything to go off of. Where is the seat measure? Also are you suggesting that the front of the pants should be cut with a dip in the center to wear them low in the front? In your opinion, can these pants be saved by altering them so that they fit perfectly. I am really after that slim, clean, nice look in the pants. I don't really feel like I am selling that with these pants. In other words, I don't feel to confident in these. Thanks. I really do like these pants: http://www.flickr.com/photos/19556327@N00/421826306/

 

[GBR]

The first pair you illustrate have far to high a rise which makes the on seam side pockets bulge and look frankly dreadful.

You ae not an old man so don't be tempted to ape what such a person might espouse unless you want costume not clothes.

The second pic look fine - especially better if that had sland side pockets which have a narrowing effect to the eye.

 

[a tailor]

note the pant in the picture flicker.com are being worn with the waist up and squarely horizontal. thats why the front is so clean and theres your basic problem.
if you insist on pushing the front down it will always look droopy.
dont know of any rtw trouser made slanted down in front.

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by a tailor

note the pant in the picture flicker.com are being worn with the waist up and squarely horizontal. thats why the front is so clean and theres your basic problem.
if you insist on pushing the front down it will always look droopy.
dont know of any rtw trouser made slanted down in front.

Totally agree with this. We American men have been conditioned to 'droop' the waists of our pants as much as possible. I remember when I was a teen-ager, I'd insist my mom measure my waist around my hips, because I wanted the pants to be baggy as heck. As you say, you're not 'selling' the pants. I think you need to get used to having them run flat and level across your waist. And you should get used to the waist of your pants being higher than you're used to, as Tailor points out.

One point I read recently, which helped me think about this: with your shirt tucked in, your pants should draw attention to your trim, flat stomach (if you have one).

The only reason pants droop are when they're worn by middle-aged men with big beer guts, who are using their belts as retainers for the beast lurking just beneath their shirt buttons.

I think that if you're young and trim, the smoother and flatter the line going down your sides and profiles, the slicker you look. (Like in your 'nice fitting pants' pic. Notice how the line from his shirt into his trousers and under his belt is all one.)

 

[HalfCanvas]

The pants you're wearing don't look "dreadful," and I don't think the rise looks "too high." The cut of the pants is simply conservative, and the "bulging side pockets" are probably the result of imprecise construction. If you're looking for a "hipper" pant (i.e., one that you'd wear to a NYC bar on a Saturday night), then, yes, your pants have too high a rise. But the rise isn't inherently too high. That is, the pants look like the fit fairly well.

The real question is, Where do you want the top of your pants to sit? A hair under the navel, an inch below it, or several inches below it? After you make that choice, the goal is to find a pant with as short a rise as is comfortable. Does hit make sense?

 

[Tomasso]

Rarely does one see a well fitted pair of flat front trousers but then most men lack the physique (flat stomach, no hips, no butt) to carry them off. That, and they are generally worn too tight (fitted

)and low waisted.

 

[Ludlow]

I used to have a pair of flat-fronts that had pockets which buckled like that. The effect got worse once I put wallet/keys in the pockets. Needless to say I donated the "mouse ears" trousers to Goodwill and bought a better-fitting pair.

 

[Lysol]

Originally Posted by Tomasso

Rarely does one see a well fitted pair of flat front trousers but then most men lack the physique (flat stomach, no hips, no butt) to carry them off. That, and they are generally worn too tight (fitted

)and low waisted.

i don't think this is necessarily true but as someone who wears only flat fronted slacks, is 6' tall and in great shape, i will say that the look in the second picture Jaygatsby posted is almost unattainable. the model's shirt and pants are likely held back with clips and the look is exaggerated by the angle of the photo.

 

[HalfCanvas]

You mean you don't pin your pants and shirts?

 

[Jaygatsby28]

After trying the pants on a few more times, I have come to realize that the first photo I posted isn't the best. I should probably iron the front of the slacks to get rid of the creases that occured when I was sitting at my desk.

However, I did get some good feedback from you guys. These pants were custom made, and they were my first order. We are still working out the kinks. For the next pair of slacks I order what do you recommend I change? Drop the waist for sure. The pockets in that photo are on the seam...maybe I should go with off the seam? If I drop the waist by an inch or an inch and a half what will happen? Will I have to increase the waist? I do not have a belly at all, but once at Saks off 5th I tried a on a Dunhill with a low waist and my girlfriend made fun of me for showing a belly! I am afraid of that happening again.

To be honest I have never owned a pair of pants that fit me truly well. I dislike pleats, so that is why I went for flat front. Do you guys recommend that I head to a store and try on different styles of flat front pants and get an idea of what I like? The custom clothiers I use actually copies articles of clothing if I desire, maybe I will be lucky and find something that fits me great and I can have them copy it...but then again what is the point of having a custom clothier (maybe the fabric selection is reason enough).

I'm 22, slim, fit and I have hips. What do you suggest

Thanks for all your input