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Men's Hats: A Discussion Thread, Questions, Opinions, Suggestions...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GusW, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. guyver00

    guyver00 Senior member

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    Fort Langley is a bit out of my way, so I haven't been there before. I'm looking for a homberg or a fedora right now, so just browsing eBay. Have you been to the Vancouver flea market at Terminal St? There used to be a seller that sells hats, with a lot of great reviews on their Facebook page, but they've moved since last year. Look up Second Chance Hats, they might be back in April though, somewhere in Surrey.
     
  2. Patrologia

    Patrologia Senior member

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    Milwaukee
    
    Django, ALWAYS ONLY brush counterclockwise. That is the direction the felt is brushed, and you could make it look bad (and harder to fix) if you go against the grain. Counterclockwise based on looking at the hat from above or from below base on the side you're brushing. It's a good idea to brush it lightly every time you wear it before you go out. Keeps the dust from getting wet and getting deep into the felt. Nice hat (I love my Borsa) and nice connection to your granddad.
     
  3. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I haven't been - but I live in Surrey, so if you find them, don't be quiet about it!
     
  4. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I popped into Sids off Roosevelt (Chicago) over the weekend and checked out a few different hats. I ended up with a Stetson Wool/Fur blend. I believe he said it was a Fedora. The crown was shorter than the Homburgs that I was originally looking at. Overall I'm quite happy.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  5. mcarthur

    mcarthur Senior member

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    nephew, you live in the Chicago area, you should visit Graham Thompson at optimo hat company
     
  6. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

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    I have to save up for that visit.
     
  7. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I have a mid-grey, and a dark grey fedora, both needing new bands. Any suggestions on colours?

    Also, I've successfully reshaped the crowns, and brims, but one of the leather sweat band has several creases. Any tips or tricks for getting those out? They can leave unsightly red marks on my forehead, at times.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2014
  8. Patrologia

    Patrologia Senior member

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    Pics would help, as would indications of what you'll wear these with. Generically though, I've got mid/dark grey hats with black, with matching (not really an option for you) and with greyish brown bands. All look good. The darker grey hats will be more forgiving I think.

    I doubt that you're going to get those out completely. You might be able to flatten them out and use some leather product (Lexol, Venetian, something similar) to condition the leather and try to convince it to take a new shape, but ... it is never going back to virgin smooth, and if the hat fits tightly it is still going to leave a mark.

    Pics would help with all this.
     
  9. milesdavisjr

    milesdavisjr Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    London, United Kingdom
    Question...is it ok to wear Fedora hat in a hot country? Might be traveling to tropical country but want to maintain my dapper once in a while...

    ......Sent from NSA Monitored Device
     
  10. Atgemis

    Atgemis Senior member

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    You should check out Leon Drexler of Toronto.

    From Le Noeud Papillon Blog.

    Currently we are working with a few different companies on blog posts relating to wool weaving, shoe making and hat making. Of those, the one which particularly interests me at the moment is the hat making process of Leon Drexler's Stephen Temkin. Temkin is a custom hat maker that I was introduced to by a very good American customer of mine. I approached Stephen a while back to see whether he might be able to replicate a hat I had seen on Tom Wolfe which I had fallen in love with. Stephen had suggested that there was a hat he made which was similar that could be used as a base pattern. That hat was called a Budapester and it is on the site which I linked to above. The commission was upon the condition that he would take photos along the way to explain the process. So I was really happy to get these first photos in yesterday of the hat being made.

    The beauty of having your hat made is not only that it's for you specifically (I had to measure and re-measure my head three times) but you get to be a part of the process as you go along. Here is Stephen at about the 50% completed stage:

    The hat is progressing, bit by bit. Actually, I'm now ready to cut the brim and wanted to confer with you about the width and curl. It's a complicated matter, so please bear with me.

    To use an example, the brim on the Budapester is cut at 2-3/8" without variable proportions, meaning it is 2-3/8" all the way around, as is the way a standard hat is cut. The curl on the sides is rolled up a little further than the front or back, so when finished, the visual width on the sides is about 2" but the visual width front and back is a bit more, about 2-1/8.

    For your hat, my plan is to cut the brim ever so slightly wider than the Budapester, but also to cut a proportional brim, meaning it will be cut a bit wider still on the sides than in the front or back (a once typical procedure for curled brim hats). This will allow me to create an even greater differential in the roll of the curl up the sides and thus allow, I hope, a more distinctive fore-to-aft arc in the finished brim while maintaining a proportional balance in the visual width. Essentially, I'm using the look of the Tom Wolfe hat as a bit of guidance, although your brim will look slightly different.

    [​IMG]
    The basic starting block - a bare finish beaver felt in cream. From here the hat will need to be shaped and sculpted.

    [​IMG]
    The hat must be sculpted and curved into place before finishing the hat with both grosgrain ribbon as a hat band and trimming to the edge of the hat

    [​IMG]
    Because it is a bespoke order, customer's can choose whatever they like to be printed on the inside lining of the hat.
     
  11. milesdavisjr

    milesdavisjr Well-Known Member

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    London, United Kingdom
    I'm in London, UK unlesa you're suggesting I should order from Online.



    ......Sent from NSA Monitored Device
     
  12. DjangoV

    DjangoV Well-Known Member

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    Nov 16, 2013
    Location:
    The Netherlands
    
    Apparently my mother thought my grandfather had a big head like me. Turns out it is a 4½ (French) size where I need more of a 6½ (what can I say, my bulky brain need a place to stay, doesn't it ;) ) At least I have convinced her it's high quality/price so she won't toss it
     
  13. Tarquinius

    Tarquinius New Member

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    Jan 25, 2014
    Hello, I've decided it's time to up my hat game and I'm on the hunt for a spring/summer hat. What are the best options for this? The ubiquitous Panama hat comes to mind, but are there any other alternatives?

    And with Panama hats, what is the best place to buy them in London/Europe (or online), for a reasonable price? I'm not quite ready to go all in on a Montechristi, in case it ends up not working with my style...
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014
  14. Atgemis

    Atgemis Senior member

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    Try Leon drexler in Toronto. Try camilo in Sydney. Try Borsalino. Try black hats in Hawaii. Double check black could be another name. Getting slow in my old age.
     
  15. Spong

    Spong Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    London, UK
    How is this thread even a thing? Every time prior to this the hat subject was raised on SF it's always been met with the same response: "hats are anachronistic and only for the over 40s/50s". Where did all the hat love come from all of a sudden?
     
  16. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    From people that recognize the inherent irony of calling a hat anachronistic, whilst wearing a three piece suit. There are those, like me, that find anachronisms charming. And those, also like me, that find a hat leaves one's hands free, while an umbrella does not.
     
  17. Spong

    Spong Well-Known Member

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    I agree completely, I just find it odd because I've observed before that the bulk of the SF collective seems inherently hostile to hats. 31 pages and no-one posting anything negative or that tiresome meme about "what you think you look like versus what you actually look like". I'm just a bit shocked.
     
  18. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

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    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    While (when done right) traditional hats have always been stylish, they haven't been in fashion for 40 years. That is starting to change and, as a result, the SF collective (as collectives do) is following suit.

    I always felt that meme was idiotic when used here. If nothing else, SF (CM) isn't home to slovenly neck-beards who misappropriate formal clothing items in faux-irony. Generally speaking, most SF'ers who sport a fedora, Panama or Homburg hat are squarely aligned with the "what you think you look like" examples.
     
  19. ImTheGroom

    ImTheGroom Senior member

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    I should hope I fall into that category. Presented for your consideration:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. MisterFu

    MisterFu Senior member

    Messages:
    471
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    Mar 19, 2013
    Location:
    New York City
    Well, you might remember in the past I have given you props for the morning suit and top hat (outstanding). IMHO, you are doing it 100% right.

    This is a great example of doing it wrong:
    [​IMG]


    This article, from which the image is taken, presents one of the most recent stigmas the common folk associate with hats (Fedoras and Trilbys specifically). In short, most of the anti-hat memes center around the association of hats with what certain areas of the internet label as "beta males".

    That said, hats are (a) useful and (b) a fine piece of clothing if worn correctly (a lot of dillwads need to learn how to take off their hats while indoors).
     

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