MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

[LaymanX]

You know Fall is around the corner when the Mega Peacoat Thread is bumped. Excellent...

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

@TweedyProf I wonder if they've tweaked that shoulder a bit. The first two pics you posted are the older style peacoat with two high handwarmer pockets and flap pockets below. The last image of the model is the one I own with just the two lower slash pockets. The shoulders definitely look a little softer and less angular so perhaps they changed the shoulder line a little also?

The Permanent Style x PWVC bridge coat might be worth a look too. Bit lighter at a 620g wool/cashmere mix that is supposedly less stiff than the standard melton wool. It is longer though, and a little spendy.

 

[TweedyProf]

@TweedyProf I wonder if they've tweaked that shoulder a bit. The first two pics you posted are the older style peacoat with two high handwarmer pockets and flap pockets below. The last image of the model is the one I own with just the two lower slash pockets. The shoulders definitely look a little softer and less angular so perhaps they changed the shoulder line a little also?

The Permanent Style x PWVC bridge coat might be worth a look too. Bit lighter at a 620g wool/cashmere mix that is supposedly less stiff than the standard melton wool. It is longer though, and a little spendy.

Good point! Yes could be. How are the shoulders on the one you own?

 

[TweedyProf]

Thinking very seriously about the SEH Kelly Peacoat after talking to Paul about the design, construction, fabric...

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

SEH Kelly has a half-raglan sleeve so likely a softer shoulder line. I like it very much, particularly in the colliery gray. I think they do free world wide shipping too. Assuming they bring them back this year I think I'd go for it.

 

[LaymanX]

Having owned multiple kersey wool Vietnam / WWI era peacoats, I say the Buzz Rickson version nails the peacoat quite well and has served me for 5 years (wearing it quite roughly too). Tough as nails, fits like a peacoat should.

That is, if you want the essential peacoat fit.

 

[TweedyProf]

Having owned multiple kersey wool Vietnam / WWI era peacoats, I say the Buzz Rickson version nails the peacoat quite well and has served me for 5 years (wearing it quite roughly too). Tough as nails, fits like a peacoat should.

That is, if you want the essential peacoat fit.

Thanks. How does 36oz Melton wear? I guess I'm a little less concerned with the essential peacoat as much as something that is thematically linked to the peacoat but also has an interesting construction and stylistic modifications. The Buzz Rickson looks to be sold out anyway.

 

[LaymanX]

Not a single instance of pilling after some pretty hard wear, much like my kersey wool peacoats. I wouldn't recommend it otherwise.

Haven't tried Real McCoy edition, besides trying it on in the store, but I'm sure it's similar in quality.

 

[radio3]

Does anyone have any experience with or opinion on Hardy Amies peacoats?

 

[TweedyProf]

These are hard choices...Private White VC on left, SEH Kelly on right. There are things I like about both.

 

[Blake Stitched Blues]

Looks great Tweedy. There's a belt on the back of the PWVC that you can use to cinch in the waist for a bit more shape through the mid-section. I think with a sweater and a scarf underneath you'll look a bit more filled out in it.

Seeing both side by side I think the patch pockets and turnback cuffs on the SEH Kelly give it a bit more of a schoolboy-ish duffle coat vibe.

 

[TweedyProf]

Looks great Tweedy. There's a belt on the back of the PWVC that you can use to cinch in the waist for a bit more shape through the mid-section. I think with a sweater and a scarf underneath you'll look a bit more filled out in it.

Seeing both side by side I think the patch pockets and turnback cuffs on the SEH Kelly give it a bit more of a schoolboy-ish duffle coat vibe.

Yeah that belt is a nice feature to give the coat a bit of shape. Wish the SEH Kelly had it. Shoulder is ok, not as hard as I thought it might be, ok when I lift my arms. Been chatting with Paul at SEH Kelly a bit. Really nice guy.

 

[TweedyProf]

I might actually prefer the cleanness of the Private White in the front and the ability to cinch the waist. That said, 30oz makes it hard to wear in the fall before the cold really hits...Paul at SEH Kelly said this is one reason he is opting for 24 oz, to increase seasonal wearability as opposed to using the earlier 30oz Melton.

 

[TweedyProf]

Some thoughts on the two jackets, since some might be thinking about getting one or the other, the Private White VC jacket here and the SEH Kelly version here. Both seem to me excellent coats.

I only have the Private White VC jacket in hand, and will probably return it, mostly because while I would happily own it, not sure that it is clearly hits all the notes over the SEH Kelly version. The perfect jacket would combine elements of both, but both are very nice coats the easily clear the bar for me: functionality, quality, construction, aesthetics etc.

The main issue is 30oz melton. It's a lovely substantial fabric, and not nearly as "steel like" in drape as I feared. It is a tank in terms of warmth but it does give more than I thought it would and the shoulders, which have no padding, are reasonably soft despite the weight. The problem is that I expect the comfortable temperature range here to be 20-40F, but then I would want a longer coat in that range, espeically on the cold end. The 24oz Kelly version, which will come out in the next month, will have a better range of 30-50 F as reported by another member who has a similar weight Kelly coat. That seems a better temperature range for a casual short fall/winter jacket, as I would w ant to start wearing it in October and being able to put it on comfortable in the 50s is very desirable.

Both coats have a pleasing cut and details. The PWVC just fits over my tailoring and the Kelly should as well. The belt in the back of the PWVC allows a cinching of the waist which gives the coat a bit of shape, a touch of waist suppression. That is probably a feature I most wish was found on the Kelly coat. The suppression isn't drastic, but enough to add a little visual interest (this isn't very traditional, but we all have different tailoring demands). There are two very nice inside pockets with copper zippers that beautifully contrast with the navy melton (as well as two copper rivets in the back of the collar when you pop the collar), and the coat is lined but not with cotton (the Kelly is half-lined with grey contrasting melton).

The collar is a bit more aggressive than in the Kelly, and I suppose that is the feature I like less. Perhaps a little flamboyant for me.

On the Kelly, the turn up cuff is a nice touch, perhaps too busy for some but I quite like it. Paul has kept the hand warmer pockets and subtly put them in a seam, but also lowered them for more ease of use, which is a nice feature. I think this forced the patch pockets. In his coat, it is the patch that is the only thing that gives me pause. It makes the front of the jacket a little busier than the PWVC and less traditional. I don't dislike it, but it is something I do ponder. I like @Blake Stitched Blues point that it is duffle like.

Sizing is an interesting thing. The PWVC is a bit more voluminous. The medium measures at 111cm or 43.7 inches which is a bit big for a 38/39R. Actually, with a thick sweater or a tweed jacket, it works fine, just snug but comffy. This extra ease emphasizes that it is a very cold weather piece. The Kelly will measure slightly north of 42 inches, as I understand from Paul as they are giving some more ease in the back, but "fractional" as he says, so maybe up to 42.5 (he hasn't cut it yet and won't know precisely until the jackets come off the line, given how it is sewn, pressing etc.).

I'm leaning towards the Kelly. I like both as being British made clothing with English sourced cloths. I suppose I like the artisinal quality of the Kelly as Paul and Sara make only a few pieces in each size. But I'd be happy with either.

Hope this is helpful for any of you thinking of picking up one of these.

 

[alphabetagaga]

what about this one tweedy?

Churchill Peacoat

Discover the Churchill Peacoat from Gloverall. A double-breasted coat that boasts practicality and elegance with its distinctive design. Crafted from 100% English Melton wool and finished with lining, this Peacoat combines practicality and elegance.

www.gloverall.com

picked up mine 6months ago. so pleased with it. quality even better than i imagined