1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by ruzzi, Mar 30, 2006.

  1. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Maybe my answer was a bit oblique. If Sterlingear says your coat is Melton, it is Melton--whatever they mean by the term, "Melton." I don't think it is Merino. So, the chances are slim Sterlingwear made a mistake and made your peacoat of Merino. Do they even advertise any coats made of Merino on their website? The salesperson you spoke with may have been misinformed.

    I just compared my Sterlingwear Classic (80/20 blend) to one of my current issue peacoats (100% Melton). The Classic is a bit nappier than the issue coat, but the stiffness of the two collars is about the same. Neither has a problem staying up.

    So, compare your Classic to the Navigator and see how the two collars compare in stiffness. Also compare the wool shells and see if there are any differences in the material. You will probably need to A & B them to see if there is a difference.

    A tailor could give you viable ideas as to stiffening the collar. I think it should be fairly straightforward. Find a piece of stiff material and place it between the two pieces of wool shell that constitute the collar. Place it below the bend of the collar to give it strength when popped.

    Good luck, and let us know what you find out.

    Edit Note: I just saw your edited note about the softness of the collar. My advice is to call Sterlingwear and let them know what you are thinking. I imagine the customer service rep will be able to answer your questions.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  2. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

    Messages:
    1,118
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    

    Okay. I just called two Sterlingwear retail stores (one of which is where I had ordered my coat) and asked about the 100% wool issue. Both told me they make their 100% wool peacoat offerings (Navigator) in MERINO and they use the 100% MELTON for coats they give to the USN. I was told the 80/20% blends were melton. I was told a 100% melton coat will cost $400 (guessing this is the mil-spec or whatever).

    This is a direct contradiction to what the Sterlingwear website says ("we only use melton wool"). I'm super annoyed right now at the poor customer service and lack of consistency within the company and what their offerings supposedly are. I'm also annoyed that I asked for 100% melton when I ordered it and clearly got 100% merino. Now i'm going to have to wrestle an exchange out of them for a custom order.

    Comparing the Classic to the Nav - the difference is clear. The Nav is way flimsier (collar folds onto itself when popped) and softer.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  3. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    


    Now, you are going to have to get the same answer out of the Sterlingwear customer service rep before you can make headway on your return.

    Odd that the company would have erroneous information on its website. Could be they changed the material from Melton to Merino, but never updated the site.

    If you had described the collar in your first post the way you described it in this more recent post ("collar folds onto itself,") I could have told you it wasn't Melton.

    Good luck and let us know how the story plays out.
     
  4. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

    Messages:
    1,118
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    

    Will do, thanks for your help. I assume that they have replaced the 24oz 100% melton with a 24oz 100% merino for their "finer" civilian offerings and that the 24oz melton is still available in the factory. If that is true, it is extremely annoying that they have not clarified that and I'm going to return the custom one and have them make me a proper peacoat.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. CornToast

    CornToast Active Member

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    Mar 7, 2013
    I'm about to pull the trigger on another bayswater peacoat. Can I get some opinion on whether it's better after being tailored or the original?
     
  6. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    

    I think the coat looks fine. I would keep it. That's my opinion. But the only opinion that matters is what you think.
     
  7. SLAB

    SLAB Senior member

    Messages:
    358
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2009
    Location:
    BE
    okay, I've been on the hunt for a peacoat for a couple of years now; I bought a pre WWII vintage peacoat last year but the fit was totally off.
    Although I am usually a purist and go for the exact reproductions of military garments, I decided to change course and go for a jacket made by the Japanese Americana company Pherrows. Its their take on the 1913 (13 star button) peacoat. It is a modern fitted coat with most details intact aside from the fact that it is black instead of navy and not 100% wool (shockers!). So far I'm really happy with it; the sleeves are short but I like my jackets like that. The coat is made of a wool blend with polyester and acryl and seems to keep me warm enough for the current winter weather. One other important change compared to the original is the shape of the collar. I didn't like the combination of the huge collar and my small grape head so when I saw this coat, I was delighted to see they made it with a substantially smaller collar.

    anyway, enough talk, here are the pictures

    [​IMG]
    SAM_0819 by SLAB13, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    SAM_0820 by SLAB13, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    SAM_0821 by SLAB13, on Flickr

    [​IMG]
    SAM_0822 by SLAB13, on Flickr
     
    2 people like this.
  8. patrick_b

    patrick_b Senior member

    Messages:
    2,136
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2007
    Location:
    NBPT, MA
    I've had my Sterlingwear Authentic for a month now and love it. However, after just a couple of weeks, the inside button came loose/unraveled. I planned to sew it back on until I noticed that it's not like sewing a shirt button as you don't sew through both layers of material. Fortunately, I pass by the Sterlingwear factory/retail store often enough during the workweek so I had them fix it. They also shored up the middle outside button as it was a bit loose as well. It's the most used buttons that were coming loose.

    Now two weeks later, I'm in the same boat. The inside button is again unraveling. Is there a way to do sew jacket buttons so that they stand up a little better to use? I figure the military guys are tougher on buttons that I am.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Aside from the button coming loose, I couldn't be happier with the jacket. I found the navigator's wool felt a bit nicer but much preferred the dark navy color of the authentic and it's a lot warmer with the fleece liner.
     
  9. Robert

    Robert Senior member

    Messages:
    5,315
    Joined:
    May 18, 2008
    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    

    Looks pretty good. I'd like to see how it looks with the buttons done like normal and the collar popped a bit.
     
  10. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

    Messages:
    1,118
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    Just out of curiosity: has anyone removed the shoulder pads from their SW Authentic? To what success/effect?
     
  11. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

    Messages:
    1,898
    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2010
    
    To be honest, I see very little difference before and after.
     
  12. Spaghettimatt

    Spaghettimatt Senior member

    Messages:
    1,118
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2008
    

    Can confirm via SW that Navigators and Mariners are made in merino, not "melton." They also won't honor an exchange (custom order) despite my insistence.

    So instead I'll figure out a way to stiffen the collar a bit. Putting a "canvas" between the two layers like you suggested ia good idea. I'm also considering covering the back of the collar with a leather (goat, maybe calf; lamb probably too soft) like the TOJ or Bond BR peacoats. Think that would work to give the collar a bit more "pop" and hold?
     
  13. Duffzman

    Duffzman New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2014
    ...
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2014
  14. sdurant12

    sdurant12 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2014
    Hello, I am interested in buying a vintage kersey peacoat from the 70's. My chest measurement is pretty exactly 39 inches (my 3 measurements were 38.75", 39", 39", and I'm wondering if I should wear a size 38L or a size 40L peacoat. I am looking for a slim fit that I can still wear a medium weight sweater under. I have read Peacoat's dating guide, and I'm not sure what size exactly would be best, because he says that the actual sizing fluctuated over the years. Also, I'm not sure if this is relevant, but note that I'm getting the peacoats in long. This shouldn't affect the chest measurements, but I thought I would mention it just in case. I'm 6"4' and weigh 160 pounds, for reference.

    What size p2p would be recommended? I'm thinking between 20 and 21 inches, but would like someone more knowledgeable to give their input, because it would be a shame to waste money and time. Thanks in advance!

    (also, Peacoat, your guide is incredible, so thanks a lot!)
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2014
  15. PontiacPilate

    PontiacPilate Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2013
    Location:
    Va
    I think you would be fine with either size depending on how you'd want the fit to be. The 38 will fit a little trimmer, and the 40 will be a bit looser. With my late 70s peacoat I sized down for a trim fit with just a shirt under it, and it fits perfect as that.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    

    You are a tweener, which makes it a little more difficult. But I think a 38 would give a fairly decent fit probably as good as you will get. Won't be that trim, though. Might even have room for a sweater. I think a size 40 would be a little large on you, but a sweater would fit.

    A size 38 p2p should be about 20.25 to 20.75. For you I would shoot for the smaller p2p; however, trying to find a long is going to be a struggle. Whichever size you can find a long in, get it.
     
  17. sdurant12

    sdurant12 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2014
    So I realized that when measuring I needed the tape to go over my shoulderblades, something that I hadn't paid much attention to the first time, not realizing how much it would change the measurement. My final measurement ended up being closer to 39.75. Based on your advice, which I adapted to my new measurement, I decided to buy a peacoat on ebay that measured a 40L from 1974, I think. (It has silver buttons, and the tag has a 74 so I'm pretty sure that's right).

    It should arrive monday, and I'll be sure to post fit pictures and information to help grow the body of knowledge about fit, etc, that is in this thread. Thanks a lot for the advice.
     
  18. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    

    You were extremely lucky to find a long size in the vintage series. The 40 won't be a trim fit wearing just a shirt, but it will allow room for a sweater or a vest. If you read my guide, and know how to find the date embedded in the code, you ought to have the right year. With the pewter buttons, it sounds as if it were placed in service before the late 70s.

    Good luck.
     
  19. ToTheArk

    ToTheArk New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 23, 2014
    Any help on finding out what make this coat is would be very much appreciated. The only clue I have is that there is a small brown rectangular label on the coat's right hand side (near his pocketed hand) but my TV isn't HiDef so I can't read what it says.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Peacoat

    Peacoat Senior member

    Messages:
    701
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2009
    Location:
    Middle Tennessee
    Not too interested in the coat, but that girl . . . .
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by