MEGA PEACOAT THREAD - 61 threads merged - all Peacoat questions HERE

[lexleung]



does the j.crew bayswater peacoat fit TTS? Thanks!

..Also can you wear it unbuttoned or does it look awkward?

 

[SirGrotius]



For J Crew what size should i get? I'm a 36R. 15 inch neck and 32 inch sleeve

I'm the same size and went with a Small. It's fine and I can wear a sweater underneath. Keep in mind it won't look necessarily slim, as it's still more of a boxy cut.

 

[dococ121]

I am looking for a U.S Army Surplus Navy Peacoat, but not sure where to find one online. I have looked at ebay and they don't really have anything in a 46r. I have looked at sterlingwear. I was wondering if I could find that cheaper at on another site.

Thanks

 

[krazedout]



With what you have told us, I would say the 38 is too small for you. If it feels too tight, it is too tight. Plus, if you are in a cold climate, you will need a sweater under the coat. The extra material under the coat would only exacerbate the problem.

Thanks for the fast reply peacoat. The tightness only occurs when I try it on with a sweater - I was thinking of only buttoning the bottom 2 buttons if I had to size down.

Here's a pic of me in the 40R. What do you guys think? Size down or no?

(EDIT: Fixed the images)

 

[sincere1983]

Hi there,

Are there any people who have the Classic Wool Naval Pea Coat with Leather Trim 740CE?

And can they upload some fit-pictures with sizings?

Looking forward to a reply.

 

[Peacoat]



I am looking for a U.S Army  Surplus Navy Peacoat, but not sure where to find one online. I have looked at ebay and they don't really have anything in a 46r. I have looked at sterlingwear. I was wondering if I could find that cheaper at on another site. 

Thanks

Welcome to the Forum.

You will be looking a long time for an Army peacoat. All peacoats since the beginning of time have been issued by the Navy.

If you want an official used navy peacoat, you can try ebay, or Vintage Trends in the military section. But first read my article, which has a link in my signature line below.

 

[aspasp]

I'm deciding on a Sterling peacoat. If I get it tailored anyways, is there a difference between the authentic and the navigator?

 

[clarinetplayer]

Today, I picked up my new 1949 vintage Navy pea coat (38R) from the dry cleaners. A few days ago, when it arrived, I was mightily impressed. Now that it is cleaned, I am more so. This Kearsey wool is amazing. The coat is not thick, but the wool is very dense and blocks wind perfectly. I cannot believe that this coat is 62 years old; it looks and feels like it is brand spanking new. There's not one tear or defect on the wool anywhere.

The mid section is more slender than a current issue Sterlingwear coat. The coat length, top of the collar to the bottom is 32 inches. Sleeves are 33. There are two inside pockets.



Not sure why I did not button the bottom right. It would have showed the shape of the coat better.

About three inches up the sleeve from the wrist is a double band of stitching.



The feel and look of the wool is smooth and lovely. This is a more true appearance of the midnight blue color. It looks nearly black. The first photo in this post looks much more blue than it really is.

 

[breakHARD77]

I have a few questions for Peacoat, clarinet, Booga, tycoon, or anyone else who can help:

(1) Peacoat, this question is specifically for you. I recently ordered a 36R Sterlingwear Spec peacoat, and it's currently en route to my house. However, judging by clarinet's pictures (and various posts in this thread), the vintage peacoats found on vintagetrends.com appear to be less boxy than the Spec (plus, I'm not a fan of the "suit-like" shoulders of the Spec, as was previously mentioned in this thread). Thus, I'm thinking about taking a shot on a 36 or 38 from vintagetrends. I know I want a 6-button, and you noted in your post on TheFedoraLounge that your 1949 coat (with the NAVAL CLOTHING DEPOT tag) has the nicest finish. With that in mind, should I be looking for kersey wool coats that have the NAVAL CLOTHING DEPOT tag on them? Anything else I should watch out for besides making sure that there is no moth damage?

(2) I find that sleeves are usually a smidge too long for me. Does this mean that I should order a 36S or 38S rather than the R? Do the S's and R's only refer to the length of the sleeves?

(3) I'm a little unsure about buying a vintage peacoat since they're that midnight navy color. Do you guys find that it becomes more difficult to match clothes because it is that midnight navy shade rather than gray or black?

By the way, I'm 5'9 and 1/2, 165 pounds, and my chest measures 38" or 39" (depends on the day) at the widest point when I inhale. My waist size is 31.

Any responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, all, for your great knowledge!

- EDIT -

My Spec just came in, and as I feared, it seems too boxy on me, making me look like a football player. Could it be that I'm actually a 34...?

 

[clarinetplayer]

Peacoat has written that Melton wool replaced Kearsey wool in 1980. Do read his report on vintage pea coats: www.thefedoralounge.com
Go to "outerwear". His report is near the top--a "sticky" entitled "Peacoat Dating".

His research and knowledge about this subject is amazing. This is a must read.

As for sleeve length, any good tailor can make adjustments.

As for the midnight blue color, it almost looks black. The photos I posted make it look much, much more blue than it really is. The last photos, the close ups of the wool, are pretty true to the actual color.

I ordered a 38R Spec. Comparing it to the 1949 vintage:

Spec is black; '49 is dark, dark, dark midnight blue
Spec uses melton wool; '49 Kearsey
Spec a bit more boxy in the mid section; '49 slightly more slender.
Spec has satin and fleece lining; '49 is all satin. Due to the density of the wool, it doesn't need the fleece.

 

[lite108]

Could I get some fit checks on these two peacoats. I'm 5'10'' 140lb. Mainly, I'll be wearing it upstate New York where it gets pretty cold.

1. J.Crew Small (w/ Thinsulate)
http://imgur.com/a/uM1Cz#2

2. Banana Republic Small
http://imgur.com/a/uM1Cz#0

Thanks

 

[breakHARD77]

Deleting due to duplicate post.

 

[Peacoat]

BreakHARD77, I think C'Player has answered your questions. I will add a few remarks. The midnight blue color is very easy to match. The only time it shows a bit of blue is in the bright daylight.

In order to get the Kersey wool, you don't need to go to 1949. Most of the coats prior to 1980 are Kersey. There are some exceptions, but I have found that Melton Wool is identified as such on the label. When I said the 1949 had the nicest finish, that was determined by placing the coats side by side and comparing them. I would be unable to pick the 1949 when all the coats were examined individually. So, don't worry about the year, as long as it is Kersey wool.

I don't think the coat you are wearing is "too boxy." I think it is a good fit; nor are the sleeves too long. That is the way a peacoat should fit. I like my sleeves that long. If you also go with a vintage peacoat, don't do so because you don't like the fit of the Spec.; do it because you want the Kersey wool. Also, the vintage might fit just a bit tighter, but I'm not sure. I would not go with a 34 in either the Spec or the vintage.

 

[Peacoat]



Thanks for the fast reply peacoat. The tightness only occurs when I try it on with a sweater - I was thinking of only buttoning the bottom 2 buttons if I had to size down.
Here's a pic of me in the 40R. What do you guys think? Size down or no?

I think you have a good fit, and there is no need to go a size smaller. For myself, I wouldn't want a tight fit at all, even with a sweater.

 

[breakHARD77]

BreakHARD77, I think C'Player has answered your questions. I will add a few remarks. The midnight blue color is very easy to match. The only time it shows a bit of blue is in the bright daylight.
In order to get the Kersey wool, you don't need to go to 1949. Most of the coats prior to 1980 are Kersey. There are some exceptions, but I have found that Melton Wool is identified as such on the label. When I said the 1949 had the nicest finish, that was determined by placing the coats side by side and comparing them. I would be unable to pick the 1949 when all the coats were examined individually. So, don't worry about the year, as long as it is Kersey wool.
I don't think the coat you are wearing is "too boxy." I think it is a good fit; nor are the sleeves too long. That is the way a peacoat should fit. I like my sleeves that long. If you also go with a vintage peacoat, don't do so because you don't like the fit of the Spec.; do it because you want the Kersey wool. Also, the vintage might fit just a bit tighter, but I'm not sure. I would not go with a 34 in either the Spec or the vintage.

Appreciate the reply, Peacoat.

The biggest reason I was considering sizing down or buying a vintage coat was because I don't like how pronounced/padded/hulking the shoulders on the Spec are. I'd prefer a sleeker look. Also, I'd save about $200 by getting a vintage coat and returning the Spec.

Clarinetplayer, is there any difference between how padded the shoulders are between the Spec and the vintage coat you got?