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MC General Chat

ntempleman

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Well the deerbone does have uses, just not like this. If you’re boning a riding boot with the trees in, you can compress the leather with one beautifully and achieve a smooth finish like no other. How you’re supposed to do anything with your foot still in the shoe like in this video is anyone’s guess
 

smittycl

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Not knocking you, but why do folks feel it necessary to smooth out the rolls on cordovan footwear?
No worries! Knock away!

Was ordering some Saphir cordovan polish and saw it listed. Looked it up and thought I’d try to take out a roll across the top of the shoe. Seemed to work and silly bone was only $40.
 

smittycl

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Well the deerbone does have uses, just not like this. If you’re boning a riding boot with the trees in, you can compress the leather with one beautifully and achieve a smooth finish like no other. How you’re supposed to do anything with your foot still in the shoe like in this video is anyone’s guess
I worked out a roll on my loafers with the trees in. Seemed to work.
 

Despos

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Just read a @Despos post not to steam a jacket but needs pressure and heat. There goes my first option. As much as I love Rave and the work they have done so far I sort don't feel like sending another item to them when I am anticipating putting some wear to the suit. @dieworkwear anything specific you ask for to make sure they keep the 4" lapels rolled besides 'hand press'?
Easiest method for a do it yourself press is to use a firm pillow as a base and open/lift the lapel so it is flat on the pillow. when you look at the jacket placement the face of the lapel is up and the inside pockets are showing. Use a handkerchief or t- shirt as a press cloth and press the crease flat. Start about 3" below the gorge on the breakline of the lapel to the button/ buttonhole. This is simple enough and low risk. It's odd the alteration seamstress could not remedy this. She may not have as much experience with menswear and does more work on women's clothing.
 

gettoasty

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FWIW I don't think she is completely in the unknown. Actually now that I recall she did mention how the setup she has was only 'X' pounds of pressure and that a dry cleaner had industrial devices with 'Y' pounds of pressure conducive to pressing clothes. So, even though the lapels were pressed more than I'd prefer, not all is loss. I will probably send it off to Rave when I am on vacation this coming holiday when a suit is not required.
 

gdl203

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It takes 10 minutes to do it yourself so please don’t waste money, time and carbon sending it across the country just to press the lapels. All you need is to turn the lapels open as @Despos explained, use a cloth in between and press the lapel crease line away with a good amount of pressure.
 

smittycl

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It takes 10 minutes to do it yourself so please don’t waste money, time and carbon sending it across the country just to press the lapels. All you need is to turn the lapels open as @Despos explained, use a cloth in between and press the lapel crease line away with a good amount of pressure.
I forgot to say thanks for the MartinPatrick3 recommendation by the way. Went there Friday and then brought my buddies there Saturday. Will definitely come back when I come back through to visit wifey’s family out in western MN.
 

K. Nights

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I forgot to say thanks for the MartinPatrick3 recommendation by the way. Went there Friday and then brought my buddies there Saturday. Will definitely come back when I come back through to visit wifey’s family out in western MN.
Blackblue in St. Paul is also a cool shop for more SWD oriented stuff. It has a totally different vibe, of course
 

gdl203

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Do they have some sort of AI writing copy like this? None of this makes any sense whatsoever ?

 

smittycl

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Noticed that prices ticked up at both Private White VC and Grenfell. No idea if it's tariff-related.
 

bry2000

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This suit and tie combination works well. Simple, clean, and a major improvement over what we normally see.

1260967
 

emptym

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Yea but that's not Drake's problem. That's a problem with how classic menswear guys perceive clothes. Bespoke tailoring is fashion. Brooks Brothers is fashion. J Crew is fashion. Kapital is fashion. Dries van Noten is fashion. Rick Owens is fashion. etc.

When you look at old Apparel Arts catalogs, they use the word fashion literally all the time. Georg Simmel's 1904 essay, written before the advent of modern ready to wear and certainly before "designer clothing," is literally titled "On Fashion"

The idea of timeless style as people here imagine it never existed. Since 1945, there's been a ton of variation in men's clothing by decade and region (even if we're to only look at tailored clothing). In the immediate post-war period, you have "street" fashions like the Teddy Boys in the UK, as well as the emergence of Italian tailoring, which came out of Rome and then was spread around by American movie stars. Then in the 60s, you have designers such as Pierre Cardin, Hardy Aimes, and John Weitz; style icons such as The Beatles and Michael Caine; the French Renoma look; the climaxing of the American Ivy Look; the Peacock Revolution; and the Mods. In the '70s, you have wider shoulders and wider lapels with designers and tailors such as Armani, Tommy Nutter, and Yves Saint Laurent, all of whom made really glamourous, exciting silhouettes. In the '90s and early aughts, you have more austere and slimmed down looks with Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, and Hedi Slimane. Maybe you think those designers suck, but their suits do look really good on certain frames, and if anything - they brought a whole new generation of young people back into the fray of tailored clothing (before Mad Men), which helped keep the suit relevant.

Classic menswear is not timeless style. It's not even a look. It's a collection of looks that have made it into canon. Ivy style, 1930s British tailoring, '60s Italian tailoring, and the Mod look, etc. Even within those genres, there's a lot of variation. When people say they're into "timeless style," they're just into fashion dictates of a different era.

This whole "modern fashion" vs. "classic style" is the kind of melancholic nonsense that, I think, is just a coverup for people who are too afraid to admit they like clothes.
I agree that there's no such thing as timeless style and that for some, the claim to "classic style" is an attempt to cover up an interest in clothes. But I do think some things are more trendy than others. And those who at least "aspire" to some kind of classic style may do so in part because they dislike disposable aspects of culture.
 

dieworkwear

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I agree that there's no such thing as timeless style and that for some, the claim to "classic style" is an attempt to cover up an interest in clothes. But I do think some things are more trendy than others. And those who at least "aspire" to some kind of classic style may do so in part because they dislike disposable aspects of culture.

True. I agree. I think the argument that nothing is timeless can sometimes be taken too far.
 

smittycl

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This suit and tie combination works well. Simple, clean, and a major improvement over what we normally see.

View attachment 1260967
All I could focus on was the look on the interpreter's face during the interview. She must not be a good poker player as her pained "did he really say that?" looks reflected the inanities coming out of Trump. But, yes, he does look better than usual.
 

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