MC General Chat

[gettoasty]

@dieworkwear Would Tailors Keep be open about me bringing in RTW pants and get them altered? Who have you worked with there?

The pants I am referring to are a pair of Eidos Sal trousers. First time getting these type of pants altered, I think part of the problem is that the pants never sat at my natural waist or where I would wear it. As a result, the expected and actual results varied substantially I believe. I should have just wore the braces I brought with me initially but the pants during that particular day stayed up just fine and wear I'd ideally wear these high rise trousers.

Typically pants are pressed seam to seam meaning the inseam and outseam are lined up and the pants are pressed. Shortening the bottom won't change this, however what could change is is how they pinned the cuffs (if you got cuffs). Sometimes if the stitches that secure the cuff on the outseam is a little more taught or higher up than the inseam stitches that secure the cuff it can cause the pant leg to twist slightly outward. Dropping the outseam cuff stitch relative to the inseam would help relieve this.

My next question is are these RTW pants? If so have you worn this brand/fit before and had the issue? Most often I would say a crease veering off to one side means you have a high hip on that side and would need more cloth over the outseam than the inseam. A bespoke tailor would fix the issue by opening up the panel, lengthening the cloth over the hip in the front panel and raising the front panel inseam. This would solve the problem.

@Despos might be a better source, however.

Yes I am aware of this problem and can see why that is happening. However, the leg that has this issue has the longer inseam and it still is veering off to the side.

You can kind of tell from this photo (see left leg):




I think I need to:

1. Have the crease corrected​

2. Recheck at the alteration tailor whether both legs are balanced in length​

3. Shorten inseam as needed (wear braces when trying on)​

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Would Tailors Keep be open about me bringing in RTW pants and get them altered? Who have you worked with there?

The pants I am referring to are a pair of Eidos Sal trousers. First time getting these type of pants altered, I think part of the problem is that the pants never sat at my natural waist or where I would wear it. As a result, the expected and actual results varied substantially I believe. I should have just wore the braces I brought with me initially but the pants during that particular day stayed up just fine and wear I'd ideally wear these high rise trousers.



Yes I am aware of this problem and can see why that is happening. However, the leg that has this issue has the longer inseam and it still is veering off to the side.

You can kind of tell from this photo (see left leg):

View attachment 1190315


I think I need to:

1. Have the crease corrected​

2. Recheck at the alteration tailor whether both legs are balanced in length​

3. Shorten inseam as needed (wear braces when trying on)​

Yea, a large part of their business is in just alterations. I've brought outside pants there for adjustments (that was actually how I got acquainted with them).

BTW, who makes that coat? It looks nice.

 

[gettoasty]

@dieworkwear Lemaire Great Raincoat from FW17?

 

[dieworkwear]

Looks like our very own @UrbanComposition made it into British GQ!

The best street style from Pitti Uomo SS20

The Florence heat isn’t stopping these men from looking their best...

www.gq-magazine.co.uk

 

[Gus]

I like that washed denim shirt combo. Excellent choice Peter!

 

[UrbanComposition]

I can’t tell you how many people asked me about that fabric D. Over a hundred at least.

 

[WillingToLearn]

I am guessing you have not worn the trousers a tone, but how has the fabric held up as trousers? I had a jacket length made up (absolutely love it), and thought about trousers to wear as separates, but wimped out.

 

[Journeyman]

UC, did you take a trunk over with you, or are you just really good at packing? Looking at the photos, it looks as though you've got about 50 (OK, slight exaggeration) outfits with you!

 

[UrbanComposition]

I am guessing you have not worn the trousers a tone, but how has the fabric held up as trousers? I had a jacket length made up (absolutely love it), and thought about trousers to wear as separates, but wimped out.

The fabric is pretty amazing. Salvo cut them high and wide, so they don’t pull too much and drape really well. Crease stays sharp all day, but I wasn’t really sitting much.

UC, did you take a trunk over with you, or are you just really good at packing? Looking at the photos, it looks as though you've got about 50 (OK, slight exaggeration) outfits with you!

I checked in a bag and brought a carryon and personal bag. I actually came home with three other jackets that Salvo had to tweak. I did bring more shirts than I needed, but they fold flat and don’t take much room.

 

[gettoasty]

@dieworkwear Do you have an article about shirts you need if trying to keep a minimal wardrobe? For me the blue OCBD is essential. A light blue and white spread collar will come in handy. Not sure about the white OCBD, at least in a work or formal setting. I have one for casual dress from Portuguese Flannel. What about stripes?

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear Do you have an article about shirts you need if trying to keep a minimal wardrobe? For me the blue OCBD is essential. A light blue and white spread collar will come in handy. Not sure about the white OCBD, at least in a work or formal setting. I have one for casual dress from Portuguese Flannel. What about stripes?

I wrote this a while ago:

The Basic Shirt Wardrobe

I recently accepted that my shirts don’t fit me anymore. Every time I sit down, the placket gapes, which either...

putthison.com

Mostly though, I just wear light blue OCBDs, solid light blue chambrays (Simonnot Godard), and white-blue striped shirts of varying stripe widths. I find stripes can be useful if you don't wear ties often, especially if you have plain colored suits and sport coats. Having a bit of pattern helps take up the space between a jacket's fronts.

 

[emptym]

If I could only have two shirts, they'd be blue and white in linen or end-on-end, probably spread collar. I like white OCBD's more than blue for some reason, unless I'm wearing a sport coat. I really like blue Oxford cloth spread collar shirts for wear w/ sport coat and tie though. And while I like stripes, particularly university ocbds, I like checks more (esp. tattersall and graph), like these from Goldwin's instagram:

A blue/black tattersall would be my third shirt. Red and blue or red and black might be fourth.

 

[zalb916]

Is it just me, or do you guys also prefer to layer three graph check shirts instead of the standard two, as pictured above?

 

[emptym]

Those are tattersall, in which case, two is preferred. But yes, three if graph. The simpler color scheme calls for a more layered look imo.

 

[dieworkwear]

I find that, if you layer 40 shirts, the probability goes up that at least one will be the right one for the outfit.