MC General Chat

[Eli Curt]

And somehow tennis shoe guy manages to not be the worst dressed man in the room, nor even the one wearing the most comical shoes.

Good attempt, but you missed the mark.

Tennis shoes < elevator shoes.

 

[othertravel]

Hi everybody,

I would appreciate your advice on an upcoming MTM commission through Samuelsohn. Specifically, I'm looking to get a fox brothers flannel suit in this model:

I'm 5'10/5'11, and the 40R OTR fits well. That said, these are the adjustments I would appreciate your input on:

1. Adding an inch to the length (40R is 29' BOC off the rack; I want to make it 30').

2. Flap pockets instead of patch pockets.

3. Lower the buttoning point by 1' (Question: Based on the pic above, do you think I should leave the buttoning point alone?)

4. Adjust the lapel by a quarter inch (standard lapel is 3.25'. I want to make it 3.5').

5. Get it in a peak lapel.

Do any of the proposed adjustments above seem offside/not ideal based on the model pictured above?

The model above has little-to-no shoulder padding (maybe just a layer of canvas).

And here is the fabric (I want to get the suit done in the navy chalk stripe on the left).

Thanks again everybody!

 

[clee1982]

kind tangent, but what's the attraction of Samuelsohn, I like what they make for Paul Stuart Phineas Cole but never really see much of their own stuff (Nordstorm/Saks Fifth? though rarely in my size and fit were kind generic)

 

[dieworkwear]

Hi everybody,

I would appreciate your advice on an upcoming MTM commission through Samuelsohn. Specifically, I'm looking to get a fox brothers flannel suit in this model:

View attachment 1672821

I'm 5'10/5'11, and the 40R OTR fits well. That said, these are the adjustments I would appreciate your input on:

1. Adding an inch to the length (40R is 29' BOC off the rack; I want to make it 30').

2. Flap pockets instead of patch pockets.

3. Lower the buttoning point by 1' (Question: Based on the pic above, do you think I should leave the buttoning point alone?)

4. Adjust the lapel by a quarter inch (standard lapel is 3.25'. I want to make it 3.5').

5. Get it in a peak lapel.

Do any of the proposed adjustments above seem offside/not ideal based on the model pictured above?

The model above has little-to-no shoulder padding (maybe just a layer of canvas).

And here is the fabric (I want to get the suit done in the navy chalk stripe on the left).

View attachment 1672824

Thanks again everybody!

1. Yes to flapped pockets
2. I would prob keep lapel width as is. I don't know if they can lower the gorge, but I would ask for that before asking to widen the lapel
3. Would not get peak lapels.

Cant comment on the other stuff without seeing the base model on you.

 

[othertravel]

kind tangent, but what's the attraction of Samuelsohn, I like what they make for Paul Stuart Phineas Cole but never really see much of their own stuff (Nordstorm/Saks Fifth? though rarely in my size and fit were kind generic)

It took a lot of digging, but I found a newer model that fits similarly to their PS models.

In this case, the Michael model works for me (good waist suppression, minimal padding).

Also, PS does a much much better job in selecting fabrics for their tailoring. Samuelsohn itself, chooses boring fabrics imo. With MTM, I can at least choose fabrics that align closely with the PS aesthetic.

And lastly (to echo my point above), you can basically create the PS look if you know what to ask for. For example, I MTM'd pleated d-ring trousers (ala PS) directly through Samuelsohn, and the results were great.

 

[othertravel]

Bonus fabrics I'm considering (again, closer to PS aesthetic):

 

[radicaldog]

Navy chalk stripe is quite a strong look. If it's your first chalk stripe I would stick to mid-grey. Apologies if you have many such suits already.

 

[dieworkwear]

If I was doing navy chalkstripe, I think I would do a DB. But that's also a very "down the road" type of suit

 

[clee1982]

It took a lot of digging, but I found a newer model that fits similarly to their PS models.

In this case, the Michael model works for me (good waist suppression, minimal padding).

Also, PS does a much much better job in selecting fabrics for their tailoring. Samuelsohn itself, chooses boring fabrics imo. With MTM, I can at least choose fabrics that align closely with the PS aesthetic.

And lastly (to echo my point above), you can basically create the PS look if you know what to ask for. For example, I MTM'd pleated d-ring trousers (ala PS) directly through Samuelsohn, and the results were great.

now that sounds very tempting...

@radicaldog
I'm very sure @othertravel has too many suits just like all of us...

and back on topic


1. Adding an inch to the length (40R is 29' BOC off the rack; I want to make it 30') -> sounds about right I'm 5'7 and I do 28.5 to 29in depends on the fit

2. Flap pockets instead of patch pockets.-> agree for suits

3. Lower the buttoning point by 1' (Question: Based on the pic above, do you think I should leave the buttoning point alone?) -> hard to say

4. Adjust the lapel by a quarter inch (standard lapel is 3.25'. I want to make it 3.5') -> sounds ok

5. Get it in a peak lapel. -> definitely personal choice, but I would

I really like Coleman model which looks like it's MtM on phineas cole only these days (but definitely not that fabric...)

Doeskin Coleman Blazer

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

 

[circumspice]

I think once you are in the realm of chalk stripes, there is a "in for a penny in for a pound" aspect with peak lapels. You are already making one bold choice, I don't know if you really amplify it at all with the peak lapel choice.

I would only mess with buttoning point if the stock garment proved it was necessary, I wouldn't just do it because I was lengthening the coat.

Pockets have to be jetted or flapped, patch is the one true incorrect choice.

 

[othertravel]

We’ll, there is another kicker.

Samuelsohn also offers a Hollywood waist band for the trousers. If I was going full Sexton, how do you pull it off?

 

[dieworkwear]

God bless the person who asked this

 

[othertravel]

Navy chalk stripe is quite a strong look. If it's your first chalk stripe I would stick to mid-grey. Apologies if you have many such suits already.

Mid grey is a consideration as well. I might do two - 1 navy and 1 grey.

 

[othertravel]

now that sounds very tempting...

@radicaldog
I'm very sure @othertravel has too many suits just like all of us...

and back on topic


1. Adding an inch to the length (40R is 29' BOC off the rack; I want to make it 30') -> sounds about right I'm 5'7 and I do 28.5 to 29in depends on the fit

2. Flap pockets instead of patch pockets.-> agree for suits

3. Lower the buttoning point by 1' (Question: Based on the pic above, do you think I should leave the buttoning point alone?) -> hard to say

4. Adjust the lapel by a quarter inch (standard lapel is 3.25'. I want to make it 3.5') -> sounds ok

5. Get it in a peak lapel. -> definitely personal choice, but I would

I really like Coleman model which looks like it's MtM on phineas cole only these days (but definitely not that fabric...)

Doeskin Coleman Blazer

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

Thanks for this. PS also has some great looks with hacking pockets.

 

[clee1982]

We’ll, there is another kicker.

Samuelsohn also offers a Hollywood waist band for the trousers. If I was going full Sexton, how do you pull it off?

never liked hollywood waist band personally looks too much menswear and somewhat sloppy for a suit