MC General Chat

[gdl203]

Do you find this offensively bad or short? I don’t see it. I think it’s Ok. Jacket length ends below the crotch so it covers the behind. Sleeves are a smidge short but smaller shops like Armoury (or us) won’t tailor anything just for product shots - it’s a waste of money.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Do you find this offensively bad or short? I don’t see it. I think it’s Ok. Jacket length ends below the crotch so it covers the behind. Sleeves are a smidge short but smaller shops like Armoury (or us) won’t tailor anything just for product shots - it’s a waste of money.

This only looks short because the sweater sleeves don't extend beyond the jacket sleeves so there's a lot of bare wrist showing. But a jacket this casual is probably fine being on the shorter side, right?

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Do you find this offensively bad or short? I don’t see it. I think it’s Ok. Jacket length ends below the crotch so it covers the behind. Sleeves are a smidge short but smaller shops like Armoury (or us) won’t tailor anything just for product shots - it’s a waste of money.

Yes, I think this is too short for the model who I assume is probably a couple inches north of six feet. I think this makes what is probably a very nice jacket look bad. There are obviously different opinions as to where a jacket should end. Some say it should completely cover one's posterior. A jacket that long will typically end somewhere along one's thumb. This jacket ends a few inches higher, up around the wrist. The buttoning point also looks very, very high. I own jackets from the Armoury and I like them a good deal. This photo does not reflect the work they put into their product.

I don't think it's necessarily about tailoring it to fit the model. I think it's about choosing the right model. The Armoury regularly uses their own staff for lookbooks and product shots, and most of their staff appears to be around the right height. Look at how much better this product shot looks.

That just looks so much better to my eye. It's a different cut, but the garment length is the same.

I also think many stores should do better product shots for their tailoring. I am not going to buy tailoring from somewhere if I haven't seen how it looks on a number of people, open, closed, with a tie, without a tie, with knitwear underneath, etc. I feel like this is something most stores don't get. As an online consumer, I want to get an idea for how things fit before I buy. I can't try it on in the store. Fortunately, the Armoury's products are plenty well photographed and videoed (video is more helpful) and the consumer can thus buy with confidence, but for many stores this isn't the case. Many stores would be better off if they modeled their tailoring more. Shots with pocket fisting and open jackets and such don't show much.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think the photo makes the jacket look shorter than it is because the wearer has long arms. Hard to tell whether the jacket is too short without seeing a full fit pic because the jacket should have some relationship with the trouser. The "classic" rule is that the jacket should bisect the wearer halfway from the collar to the floor. If you're unable to see that, I agree that it should cover the crotch seam/ bum.

I agree the photo of Jim looks better. But I think the illusion is mostly caused by a difference in arm length.

Mark at The Armoury has long arms, and in many videos, especially when he wears Liverano, the jacket may look shorter than it is if you're only looking from the trouser pockets up. But when you look at a full fit pic, it looks fine.

 

[dieworkwear]

An example:

Jacket ends near his wrist. Jacket may seem too short.

But then in a fuller view, it's fine. Definitely on the short side of classic tailored clothing but that's the Liverano silhouette. And it's still in proportion with the trouser.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

I think the photo makes the jacket look shorter than it is because the wearer has long arms. Hard to tell whether the jacket is too short without seeing a full fit pic because the jacket should have some relationship with the trouser. The "classic" rule is that the jacket should bisect the wearer halfway from the collar to the floor. If you're unable to see that, I agree that it should cover the crotch seam/ bum.

I agree the photo of Jim looks better. But I think the illusion is mostly caused by a difference in arm length.

Mark at The Armoury has long arms, and in many videos, especially when he wears Liverano, the jacket may look shorter than it is if you're only looking from the trouser pockets up. But when you look at a full fit pic, it looks fine.

I think with length, the jacket needs, first and foremost, to look right. I don't think covering the butt, or reaching the middle of one's thumb or bisecting the body should be treated as rules. They should be treated as considerations. The jacket needs to look right and in the first photo I posted, it does not. This may be because the model has long arms, but arm length needs to be taken into account. I also think the buttoning point looks very high.

I think Mark's jackets look good on him even though they sometimes end around his wrist. Part of this is that the buttoning point is at a good height. Again, I think it is the overall impression that matters most and the overall impression here is good. That being said, I think Mark's Liverano jackets (and Liverano jackets in general) could stand to be a couple inches longer. They look a bit too short to my eye, albeit not egregiously so.

My original point was just that stores often post shots of tailoring with models that aren't the right height or build for the tailoring. That is a point I stand by. Regardless of whether you think the model is the right height, the shot is not flattering and makes a very nice product look far less appealing.

 

[UrbanComposition]

I have a DB in the works in 310g navy birdseye from Drago’s Cortina book. I remember @Despos said something similar was his favorite fabric since it resolves to a solid from afar but has great texture, so I’m giving it a try.

 

[Despos]

I have a DB in the works in 310g navy birdseye from Drago’s Cortina book. I remember @Despos said something similar was his favorite fabric since it resolves to a solid from afar but has great texture, so I’m giving it a try.

@UrbanComposition
This is in my personal stash. Replacing an old suit made with a light weight Zegna cloth with this. I like the window pane over the Birds eye pattern. This is a rich blue but not bright or fancy. Has depth. Window pane is more subtle than the picture.
Other favorite is the darkest brown you can find in a birds eye/nailhead pattern.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I just read in the paper today that Gabriele D’Annunzio of D&B Tailors in Newtown Square died on January 24th of COVID-19.

I never went to him for anything, but that's hardly reason not to regret the loss of one of the Philadelphia area's few remaining tailors. I wonder what will happen to any work he had in progress, the shop and its staff.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

I think with length, the jacket needs, first and foremost, to look right. I don't think covering the butt, or reaching the middle of one's thumb or bisecting the body should be treated as rules. They should be treated as considerations. The jacket needs to look right and in the first photo I posted, it does not. This may be because the model has long arms, but arm length needs to be taken into account. I also think the buttoning point looks very high.

I think Mark's jackets look good on him even though they sometimes end around his wrist. Part of this is that the buttoning point is at a good height. Again, I think it is the overall impression that matters most and the overall impression here is good. That being said, I think Mark's Liverano jackets (and Liverano jackets in general) could stand to be a couple inches longer. They look a bit too short to my eye, albeit not egregiously so.

My original point was just that stores often post shots of tailoring with models that aren't the right height or build for the tailoring. That is a point I stand by. Regardless of whether you think the model is the right height, the shot is not flattering and makes a very nice product look far less appealing.

A lot of proportions for jackets, buttoning points, lengths, etc., are built upon the idea of ideal proportions in the first place. So if you're a man who is proportionate in his leg-to-height ratio, arm length, or other areas, you can go by the classic stopping points. If you're out of proportion slightly somewhere, as most people are, you have to account for that and use a few tailoring tricks to adjust the look.

 

[LPMIII]

Not sure which one you're referring to but Kai D has that vintage vibe and he has most of his collection made in the US (a lot in NYC actually, IIRC)

Refined for the modern artisan and made to last

The Kai D. label was conceived with one simple notion: to create HANDSOME and FUNCTIONAL products to reflect our affection for utilitarian ideals and ti...

www.kaidutility.com

Hmmm... what sort of clothing? More formal menswear? Or more casual/military-themed clothing?

If the latter, then could be it be Aero Leathers? In addition to leather jackets, they also do a lot of other mid-20th-century style clothing: https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=aerocloth

Alternatively, could it be something like Matt Deckard's company? https://www.facebook.com/MattDeckardApparel/

I think you're talking about Thomas Farthing?

Thomas Farthing London | Fine Suiting & Headwear

Fine Suiting & Headwear Specialists. Each garment is designed with careful consideration of materials, colours and shapes, taking inspiration from our collection of 1930-40s archival pieces & photography. Specialising in Baker Boy Caps, Harris Tweed & handcrafted Fedoras, all exclusive to Thomas...

www.thomasfarthing.co.uk

Certainly fits the 1920s-1940s clothing part, but not so sure about the aeronautic theme.

It was mentioned a few times in the Dieworkwear thread IIRC

I finally found it. Looking through reproduction clothing forums I found that https://www.eastmanleather.com/ was a pretty popular brand. Scrolling through there website, I cam across one of their affiliates: https://www.buzzricksons.com/

Which is the stupid ******* name that's been almost stuck in my head for the past week.

Thank you all for your help.

 

[gdl203]

Ah.. thought about Buzz Rickson of course but it didn't rhyme or end with "er". It's also made in Japan, not US

 

[LPMIII]

Ah.. thought about Buzz Rickson of course but it didn't rhyme or end with "er". It's also made in Japan, not US

Yeah, I think I was confusing it with Fuddruckers lol. I did not know it was made in Japan though!

 

[gdl203]

glad you finally solved this !

 

[nzahir]

Do you guys think wearing a belt is not very flattering for short guys?

I am 5'6 or so, feel like it splits my body in half and my legs are longer than my upper body

The look of no belt, especially if there are side adjusters is nicer to me, but just want some thoughts