MC General Chat

[clee1982]

Does anyone know why menswear stores do this? Even very well respected menswear-y ones often do this (cough, cough, The Armoury).

This is true. I guess they put shorter jackets on the models to show trouser details?

no idea honestly, feels like it was a trend for a while..., Paul Stuart use to be pretty good at "proper length in terms of photo", though they have jump on that ship as well...

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

I really like some of the lighter-toned glen plaid flannels I've seen as DB suits (like the RL above) but not as a first and only DB suit.

 

[clee1982]

4x1 - jet the pockets @TheSuitBurnsBetter
View attachment 1544109 View attachment 1544110

this fabric is kind casual I guess that's why he did patch pocket? personally would lower the bottom button further though

 

[lordsuperb]

Maybe it's just the cut and fabric of this specific suit but I really don't like the look of this. I think having buttons above and below the buttoning point makes the jacket look more balanced.

4x1 plays to your height advantage. I prefer the 6x2 DB to have a lower buttoning point to elongate the lapels. I'm not sure what Ezra's mtm pattern is capable of doing for a double breasted suit.

 

[othertravel]

Maybe it's just the cut and fabric of this specific suit but I really don't like the look of this. I think having buttons above and below the buttoning point makes the jacket look more balanced.

The other details make it look more casual.

 

[clee1982]

well here is foo, not sure if the bottom is 4 x 1, but I think it looks good than the one above

Why do Neapolitan-style jackets sometimes look 'off' / wrong?

Originally Posted by Fuuma Not really, he pointed out about three details and did it using very specific examples that might not (and in some cases are not) representative of the style as a whole. This is a very good point. The OP refers to the 'Neapolitan' style, but I wonder if he actually...

www.styleforum.net

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

I think there's a whole DB thread for inspiration?

My fave DB of mine is on the longer side with dramatic long lapels

View attachment 1544072

I love the look of this. Is that a very subtle pinstripe?

 

[clee1982]

looks like herringbone?

 

[gdl203]

I love the look of this. Is that a very subtle pinstripe?

It's a subtle gold stripe - fabric is mohair, hence the sheen

 

[hpreston]

So I've decided that to celebrate what will hopefully be a return to normalcy this year, I want to have my first double breasted suit made. I work in a formal, suit-every-day environment (rather, I will once again whenever WFH ends). This will likely be my only DB suit so I want something classic that doesn't stand out too much. Anyone have any suggestions for fabrics, patterns, styling tips, etc?

Dark Navy. DBs are unusual enough that you don't want to make them any more unusual than they have to be. I also think a dark navy DB is great for things like weddings and other events when you don't want to look too business-like.

Second (third? fourth?) for navy.

I like 6x2 button configuration, personally.

Maybe it's just the awful shirt and tie styling here but this looks really dated. I was considering whether pinstripes/chalkstripes would be a good look for me. Like this guy:
View attachment 1544063
But this guy would probably look really cool in basically anything. I'm not this guy.

Yeah, Douglas looks pretty good in just about everything.

I don’t think if you are going to have one DB suit in your wardrobe that chalkstripe is the way to go.

Does anyone know why menswear stores do this? Even very well respected menswear-y ones often do this (cough, cough, The Armoury).

I feel like the gents at The Armoury, in general, are proponents of classic proportions. I haven’t seen anything that looks short to me in any promo material, or lookbooks, I might have missed what you are referring to though.

Here’s the Kingsman look:
View attachment 1544064

The Kingsman look is great (IMO) 6x2 buttoning, flap pockets, correct length.

 

[hpreston]

So I've decided that to celebrate what will hopefully be a return to normalcy this year, I want to have my first double breasted suit made. I work in a formal, suit-every-day environment (rather, I will once again whenever WFH ends). This will likely be my only DB suit so I want something classic that doesn't stand out too much. Anyone have any suggestions for fabrics, patterns, styling tips, etc?

Dark Navy. DBs are unusual enough that you don't want to make them any more unusual than they have to be. I also think a dark navy DB is great for things like weddings and other events when you don't want to look too business-like.

Second (third? fourth?) for navy.

I like 6x2 button configuration, personally.

Maybe it's just the awful shirt and tie styling here but this looks really dated. I was considering whether pinstripes/chalkstripes would be a good look for me. Like this guy:
View attachment 1544063
But this guy would probably look really cool in basically anything. I'm not this guy.

Yeah, Douglas looks pretty good in just about everything.

I don’t think if you are going to have one DB suit in your wardrobe that chalkstripe is the way to go.

Does anyone know why menswear stores do this? Even very well respected menswear-y ones often do this (cough, cough, The Armoury).

I feel like the gents at The Armoury, in general, are proponents of classic proportions. I haven’t seen anything that looks short to me in any promo material, or lookbooks, I might have missed what you are referring to though.

 

[smittycl]

Here's a few RL inspirations:

1. Golden Age of Hollywood Shoulders (i.e. when you want your shoulders to double as landing strips for passenger aircraft):

View attachment 1544098

2. A Trimmer, soft-shoulder silhouette:

View attachment 1544099

View attachment 1544101

3. My favourite - looks well balanced, but jacket a bit short:

View attachment 1544100

I think we discussed these here before? Jackets are seriously too short.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Does anyone know why menswear stores do this? Even very well respected menswear-y ones often do this (cough, cough, The Armoury).

My guess is that on the computer screen it looks visually striking (in person it would look silly). Makes the viewer think "wow I would look really tall in this suit."

 

[hpreston]

My guess is that on the computer screen it looks visually striking (in person it would look silly). Makes the viewer think "wow I would look really tall in this suit."

I don’t want to look taller, I want to look thinner.

 

[TheShetlandSweater]

Second (third? fourth?) for navy.

I like 6x2 button configuration, personally.



Yeah, Douglas looks pretty good in just about everything.

I don’t think if you are going to have one DB suit in your wardrobe that chalkstripe is the way to go.



I feel like the gents at The Armoury, in general, are proponents of classic proportions. I haven’t seen anything that looks short to me in any promo material, or lookbooks, I might have missed what you are referring to though.



The Kingsman look is great (IMO) 6x2 buttoning, flap pockets, correct length.

Not in their lookbooks, but in their product shots.

It's perplexing, because everyone at the Armoury definitely knows how things should fit. I've also seen this problem with Anglo-Italian in the past, Drake's, and others.