MC General Chat

[dieworkwear]

I mean...here in LA there has been a huge increase in urban apartment building in downtown. The problem is they are all egregiously expensive and half (or more) are developed at loss by foreign investment groups looking to park money.

Its harder to find a house in the suburbs of LA than a nice downtown apartment. It is, however, way easier to justify the cost of that suburban house.

That's how it is in the Bay Area as well. Development is slow, but it happens. When it does, it's all luxury units.

But at least the people who move into those units are less likely to move into existing homes, which then causes waves of gentrification. Someone gets pushed out, so they push someone else out, so then that person pushes the other person out. Eventually, the demographic shifts, and these people in more "urban" neighborhoods complain about noise, street life, food vendors, etc.

I would like to see even more development -- faster and at higher volume. But at least having some luxury units is better than nothing.

 

[ValidusLA]

This would be true except for the fact that a huge amount of these luxury units being built are being purchased as secondary or tertiary properties, often by the same foreign investors who are building the things.

Its why recent currency controls out of China froze so much development downtown for so long, because they were not only the developers, they were also the customers.

 

[othertravel]

This is interesting:

https://www.hackett.com/gb/men/14savilerow/jeremy-hackett-savile-row/

https://www.hackett.com/gb/men/14savilerow/understanding-bespoke-tailoring/

Hackett is now on Savile Row and offering bespoke.

They also have a new RTW line that’s made in Italy, and I assume half canvassed:

https://www.hackett.com/gb/prince-of-wales-wool-flannel-suit-HM422889.html?dwvar_HM422889_color=9EH&cgid=HKM802#srule=price-high-to-low&start=3&sz=21

Not bad, but the jacket is a bit short.

Their MTM option also sounds comprehensive (they offer a second fitting, if desired):

https://www.hackett.com/gb/men/14savilerow/made-to-measure-suits-myths/

 

[clee1982]

Hackett always had tailoring stuff right? Wonder who works for them on their bespoke stuff

 

[othertravel]

Hackett always had tailoring stuff right? Wonder who works for them on their bespoke stuff

Their website also mentions that their MTM is done in the UK. I wonder if that would be the Cheshire Bespoke factory.

But to answer your question, I think they’ve started going a bit upscale.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Their website also mentions that their MTM is done in the UK. I wonder if that would be the Cheshire Bespoke factory.

But to answer your question, I think they’ve started going a bit upscale.

They'd have to really impress me with their version of bespoke. If I ever get out to England again I'd probably stop by though, just to see what it's like.

I could be off on this, but has there ever been another retailer who successfully operated a bespoke business branch on Savile Row?

 

[clee1982]

Their website also mentions that their MTM is done in the UK. I wonder if that would be the Cheshire Bespoke factory.

But to answer your question, I think they’ve started going a bit upscale.

sounds like a bold move given the rest of their line up, wonder what happened to Aquascutum, I remember they were roughly the same segment

 

[Journeyman]

I have no personal experience with this (if you do please correct me if I'm wrong) but my understanding is in Tokyo, housing is purposefully built cheaply and abundantly so that it can constantly be knocked down and rebuilt.

This is true. Its all dezoned, de regulated, and free market.

Most housing in higher-density parts of Japan is largely prefabricated offsite in parts, and then moved on to the building site. It makes it quicker to construct, but it is generally not as durable/long-lasting.

In general, second-hand housing is not popular in Japan, particularly if it is likely that someone has died in a house. As a result, if a parent dies and the children already own a place, it's unfortunately common for the family to have to pay to have the house demolished so that they can then sell off the vacant block so someone can then build a new house on it. This is not an absolute rule, but it's very common.

It's certainly true that there are fewer zoning controls in Japan. It's common for urban streets to have a row of houses and then a small factory, or group of shops, or a bar. It adds to the vibrancy but it can also mean it's pretty damned noisy. One of my friends lived just behind a small sawmill that occupied the equivalent of about three Japanese housing blocks, behind a tall fence made of rusting corrugated iron. Absolutely noisy and hideous but, as a result of the location, he did get cheap rent.

 

[ChasingStyle]

Hackett always had tailoring stuff right? Wonder who works for them on their bespoke stuff

 

[LPMIII]

I'm not sure that this is the thread to ask this but....

Forever ago (at least five years back) someone posted about a men's clothing company that specialized in ~1940s inspired clothing. If I remember correctly their site/branding had aeronautic theming and their name was some catchy two word thing. It's driving me nuts that I can't remember what their actual name is.

 

[Journeyman]

Forever ago (at least five years back) someone posted about a men's clothing company that specialized in ~1940s inspired clothing. If I remember correctly their site/branding had aeronautic theming and their name was some catchy two word thing. It's driving me nuts that I can't remember what their actual name is.

Hmmm... what sort of clothing? More formal menswear? Or more casual/military-themed clothing?

If the latter, then could be it be Aero Leathers? In addition to leather jackets, they also do a lot of other mid-20th-century style clothing: https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=aerocloth

Alternatively, could it be something like Matt Deckard's company? https://www.facebook.com/MattDeckardApparel/

 

[jalebi]

I'm not sure that this is the thread to ask this but....

Forever ago (at least five years back) someone posted about a men's clothing company that specialized in ~1940s inspired clothing. If I remember correctly their site/branding had aeronautic theming and their name was some catchy two word thing. It's driving me nuts that I can't remember what their actual name is.

I think you're talking about Thomas Farthing?

Thomas Farthing London | Fine Suiting & Headwear

Fine Suiting & Headwear Specialists. Each garment is designed with careful consideration of materials, colours and shapes, taking inspiration from our collection of 1930-40s archival pieces & photography. Specialising in Baker Boy Caps, Harris Tweed & handcrafted Fedoras, all exclusive to Thomas...

www.thomasfarthing.co.uk

Certainly fits the 1920s-1940s clothing part, but not so sure about the aeronautic theme.

It was mentioned a few times in the Dieworkwear thread IIRC

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

It's certainly true that there are fewer zoning controls in Japan. It's common for urban streets to have a row of houses and then a small factory, or group of shops, or a bar. It adds to the vibrancy but it can also mean it's pretty damned noisy. One of my friends lived just behind a small sawmill that occupied the equivalent of about three Japanese housing blocks, behind a tall fence made of rusting corrugated iron. Absolutely noisy and hideous but, as a result of the location, he did get cheap rent.

I believe that land use in Japan is controlled by the national, not local government. (Land use was also effectively a provincial concern in Ontario, Canada, until the probably unwise abolition of the Ontario Municipal Board) This contrasts with the United States, where that authority is typically assigned to local governments, which can be tiny, parochial and exclusionary (E.g. Delaware County, Pennsylvania and St. Louis County, Missouri). Here in Philadelphia, land use is dominated by 'Councilmanic Prerogative', whereby the ten members of the Philadelphia City Council who are elected from districts effectively have control over land-use regulation and disposition of publicly owned property in their districts. It's not unique to Philadelphia, Chicago infamously has much the same problem in 'aldermanic prerogative', but it is particularly bad here. This invites bad policy decisions, corruption and plan stupidity, while empowering noisy, unrepresentative and usually relatively wealthy self-appointed 'neighborhood guardians'. The member of the City Council who represents my district, Kenyatta Johnson, sought to ban new bay windows in his district with a pretense of historical preservation, but at least later withdrew the proposed ordinance, perhaps because he was too busy preparing for his trial over corruption in relation to suspect deals involving city property.

Don't even get me started on City Council President Darryl 'people drive to the corner store' Clarke or Mark Squilla's downzoning of Society Hill or Society Hill in general...

 

[othertravel]

Thanks for posting this. He was at Crombie and Oliver Brown prior to Hackett.

 

[LPMIII]

Hmmm... what sort of clothing? More formal menswear? Or more casual/military-themed clothing?

If the latter, then could be it be Aero Leathers? In addition to leather jackets, they also do a lot of other mid-20th-century style clothing: https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/products.php?cat=aerocloth

Alternatively, could it be something like Matt Deckard's company? https://www.facebook.com/MattDeckardApparel/

It wasn't formal attire, definitely to the casual side. Aero Leathers is along the right lines but I'm nearly positive it was a different shop. The name had some sort of rhyme or alliterations.

I think you're talking about Thomas Farthing?

Thomas Farthing London | Fine Suiting & Headwear

Fine Suiting & Headwear Specialists. Each garment is designed with careful consideration of materials, colours and shapes, taking inspiration from our collection of 1930-40s archival pieces & photography. Specialising in Baker Boy Caps, Harris Tweed & handcrafted Fedoras, all exclusive to Thomas...

www.thomasfarthing.co.uk

Certainly fits the 1920s-1940s clothing part, but not so sure about the aeronautic theme.

It was mentioned a few times in the Dieworkwear thread IIRC

This is the right era but I am nearly positive they were a US based outfit.

I think, but am not positive, one of the words in the name ended in "er"