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MC General Chat

Nobilis Animus

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Huntsman has that option as well. All of the cutting and pattern drafting is done in NY or London but actual assembly is done in China. China assembled bespoke suit starts at $5000 while London assembled suit starts at $8000.

See, that's what I don't get. If I'm spending $5000, might as well go up to $8000 for the real thing. I understand the purpose is to net in the customers who may not be able to afford the bespoke option, but it's not that much of a difference.

I once had a piece of advice from someone much older and wiser than me at the time, who said: "One day, you'll realize that $100 is not a lot of money." And it really isn't these days. Just cutting out the Starbucks and making coffee at home with a French press saves around $2000 per year. Nearly enough to afford bespoke.
 

Texasmade

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See, that's what I don't get. If I'm spending $5000, might as well go up to $8000 for the real thing. I understand the purpose is to net in the customers who may not be able to afford the bespoke option, but it's not that much of a difference.

I once had a piece of advice from someone much older and wiser than me at the time, who said: "One day, you'll realize that $100 is not a lot of money." And it really isn't these days. Just cutting out the Starbucks and making coffee at home with a French press saves around $2000 per year. Nearly enough to afford bespoke.
If I’m spending on some really nice luxury cloth, I’d probably just spend the extra money but if it’s a cheaper workhorse cloth, I can see why someone would choose the $5k option.
 

clee1982

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I think it depends on if the $5k stuff deliver, if it delivers and it's $3k cheaper, yea for stuff I want to experiment won't get a lot wear sure why not save the $3k. It doesn't have to be identical to $8k, like if it's 99% there or even 95% there, then I would be happy yo save the $3k.

edit: actually in the Edward Sexton article it also mention I guess you have both type of client

That said, there are some clients who use both services, just for different suits. Some commission more casual, knockabout suits in corduroy or linen using the offshore service, and use full bespoke for their dressy worsteds.

Others apparently do the opposite, having worsted suits made with offshore, because they are their everyday work suits. And use bespoke for special pieces, like a dinner jacket.
 

Nobilis Animus

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I think it depends on if the $5k stuff deliver, if it delivers and it's $3k cheaper, yea for stuff I want to experiment won't get a lot wear sure why not save the $3k. It doesn't have to be identical to $8k, like if it's 99% there or even 95% there, then I would be happy yo save the $3k.

True, I hadn't counted on experimentation.

That makes me wonder - how many of us have ever commissioned something just to try it? Maybe a ridiculous colour that was more clown than peacock? It would make for an interesting thread.
 

FlyingHorker

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True, I hadn't counted on experimentation.

That makes me wonder - how many of us have ever commissioned something just to try it? Maybe a ridiculous colour that was more clown than peacock? It would make for an interesting thread.
Sort of. Clown vs. peacock is up for debate.

I can't wear any form of jacketing past 80F, I overheat quickly. So I decided to try a pair of pants that would add some more visual interest to an outfit.

I commissioned a pair of high rise worsted trousers in double forward pleats wide a wider waistband, cummerbund style. British racing green.

A couple years later, still not sure if it was a good idea. Looking back, standard middle-grey would have been a better idea.
 

clee1982

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True, I hadn't counted on experimentation.

That makes me wonder - how many of us have ever commissioned something just to try it? Maybe a ridiculous colour that was more clown than peacock? It would make for an interesting thread.

I doubt anyone would purposely go clown, at least we thought we were peak peacocking...
 

nzahir

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Hey guys, what are some dress shirt brands that have collars that stay up and can be worn without a tie? I think this collar is too high up and pronounced, but what brands have collars like this? Or should I just use a magnetic collar stay or a product such as perfect collar/million dollar collar?

I usually wear Mizzen & Main, Banana Republic, and looking to buy some Brooks Brothers possibly

maxresdefault.jpg
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Hey guys, what are some dress shirt brands that have collars that stay up and can be worn without a tie? I think this collar is too high up and pronounced, but what brands have collars like this? Or should I just use a magnetic collar stay or a product such as perfect collar/million dollar collar?

I usually wear Mizzen & Main, Banana Republic, and looking to buy some Brooks Brothers possibly

maxresdefault.jpg
Based on the price point it looks like you're at, I really like the Benjamin line of shirts at eHaberdasher. They have longer collar points that stand up really well with a jacket and no tie (I don't even keep the plastic collar stays in). A lot of them are Canclini fabrics.
 

dieworkwear

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Definitely don't wear those magnetic collar stay things. Those things are corny.

A button down collar is the easiest option. I don't know about brands, but one way a shirtmaker gets the collar to stay up is by cutting the collar with more "spring," which means the front of the collar band is taller at the point where you button it. A placket also helps. Look for shirts with a slightly taller collar band at the front and a placket.
 

nzahir

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Definitely don't wear those magnetic collar stay things. Those things are corny.

A button down collar is the easiest option. I don't know about brands, but one way a shirtmaker gets the collar to stay up is by cutting the collar with more "spring," which means the front of the collar band is taller at the point where you button it. A placket also helps. Look for shirts with a slightly taller collar band at the front and a placket.
Why are they corny?

Can they be easily seen?
 

dieworkwear

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Why are they corny?

Can they be easily seen?

I don't know if they can be seen easily. I think they're corny because they're a bit too fussy. I realize we're all fussy here, but those are fussy in a bad way, like Kickstarter inventions and mall accessories that help solve really normal wardrobe experiences -- shirts that untuck a little throughout the day, pocket squares that fall down, collars that get dirty, etc.
 

smittycl

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I don't know if they can be seen easily. I think they're corny because they're a bit too fussy. I realize we're all fussy here, but those are fussy in a bad way, like Kickstarter inventions and mall accessories that help solve really normal wardrobe experiences -- shirts that untuck a little throughout the day, pocket squares that fall down, collars that get dirty, etc.
I really never liked button-down collars. I have a bunch of casual button downs but I never actually button them when wearing. I use metal collar stays with dress shirts but non-magnetic.
 

lordsuperb

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I really never liked button-down collars. I have a bunch of casual button downs but I never actually button them when wearing. I use metal collar stays with dress shirts but non-magnetic.
I felt the same way about button down collars until I tried G. Inglese shirts. They are SUPERB.
 

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