MC General Chat

[whorishconsumer]

Have you tried No Man Walks Alone's Sartoria Carrara line or The Armoury's Model 3 cut? I think both of those work well across a wide range of body types. Sartoria Formosa is/ was also amazing, although I don't know if NMWA carrying new jackets from them. I tried on one of their coats a couple of years ago and was really impressed.

IMO, stay away from stuff like single-breasted peak lapels or super deconstructed soft cuts. Focus on something that flatters your figure. I find most guys benefit from having a bit of padding/ structure. Unless you already have broad shoulders and a narrow waist, a bit of structure will help give the illusion of a V-shaped figure.

I do, in fact, have brought shoulders and a narrow(er) waist, although that differential is shrinking during this shut-in extravaganza. I have looked at both NMWA and Armoury - both are sold out in my size in all the jackets I am interested in.

 

[clee1982]

I personally much prefer AMJ01, and you can probably find a few on Drop93

If you want Phineas cole, for jacket go for the Coleman (or Colman?) model. The newer made in Italy is kind all over the place in terms of fits (some good some not so good, especially buttoning points too high wise)

 

[clee1982]

Also what do you prefer structured or not?

 

[dieworkwear]

I do, in fact, have brought shoulders and a narrow(er) waist, although that differential is shrinking during this shut-in extravaganza. I have looked at both NMWA and Armoury - both are sold out in my size in all the jackets I am interested in.

The Armoury has a video breaking down thier various Ring Jacket models. In the video, you can see the 184 (a very deconstructed model) and the AMJ-03 (now called the Model 3, which is a slightly padded cut). The Model 3 has a slightly fuller chest and extended shoulder. On the same wearer, you can see the difference this makes.




Here's a screenshot of the very soft 184

And here's the Model 3

To me, the Model 3 looks so much better. Most "fashionable" RTW tailoring lines, however, are more like the 184. It's a very soft, deconstructed cut. But on many guys, it makes them look boyish or pear-shaped. A slightly fuller chest and extended shoulder will work on a guy with broader shoulders because it's built into the cut. Or it will make guys with narrow shoulders look like they have broader shoulders. For guys with a bit of a gut, it can give the illusion of a slim waist without needing you to take it in.

I believe the new NMWA line also has a slightly fuller chest. Their Fomorsa cut was terrific in this regard. Just the right amount of structure, a wonderful V-shaped cut, and a ton of handwork for people who care about that sort of thing.

If you're interested, we had a discussion about extended shoulders a while ago in this thread:

Extended Shoulder Supremacy

I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should...

www.styleforum.net

 

[clee1982]

Never tried NMWA x Sartoria Carrara, I do like Formosa as sports coat (but not suit), though had to downsize (EU 44 vs. EU 46 which is what I typically wear)

 

[whorishconsumer]

I personally much prefer AMJ01, and you can probably find a few on Drop93

If you want Phineas cole, for jacket go for the Coleman (or Colman?) model. The newer made in Italy is kind all over the place in terms of fits (some good some not so good, especially buttoning points too high wise)

Also what do you prefer structured or not?

The Armoury has a video breaking down thier various Ring Jacket models. In the video, you can see the 184 (a very deconstructed model) and the AMJ-03 (now called the Model 3, which is a slightly padded cut). The Model 3 has a slightly fuller chest and extended shoulder. On the same wearer, you can see the difference this makes.




Here's a screenshot of the very soft 184

View attachment 1394092



And here's the Model 3

View attachment 1394093


To me, the Model 3 looks so much better. Most "fashionable" RTW tailoring lines, however, are more like the 184. It's a very soft, deconstructed cut. But on many guys, it makes them look boyish or pear-shaped. A slightly fuller chest and extended shoulder will work on a guy with broader shoulders because it's built into the cut. Or it will make guys with narrow shoulders look like they have broader shoulders. For guys with a bit of a gut, it can give the illusion of a slim waist without needing you to take it in.

I believe the new NMWA line also has a slightly fuller chest. Their Fomorsa cut was terrific in this regard. Just the right amount of structure, a wonderful V-shaped cut, and a ton of handwork for people who care about that sort of thing.

If you're interested, we had a discussion about extended shoulders a while ago in this thread:

Extended Shoulder Supremacy

I was talking with a friend today about extended shoulders. He thinks they're bad, an artifice, and ugly. I think they're not only good, but almost everyone should get an extended shoulder. You should have an extended shoulder. Your mother should have an extended shoulder. Your children should...

www.styleforum.net

Shoulder width is something I have been obsessing over of late, as Charly at Falcon Garments can tell you. Granted that was for a custom leather jacket, which follows different principles. But in general I am wary of Romanesque jutted shoulders. For one, this is due to my frame - I already have wide shoulders and a V-shape - and two, because I don't wear my blazers all that dressed up, generally, and feel that pronounced shoulders - read: jutted shoulders usually with padding - are more formal. I have a suit with medium shoulder padding that extends slightly and that's probably enough for me at this time.

So, I am looking for soft-shoulder jackets. That being said, I see the benefit of the extended shoulder on even a soft jacket like the Model 3. I'd have to try it to determine for myself. I have seen the Model 1 overstock (it's a discontinued model now) at Drop93 but it doesn't meet my criteria of avoiding shoulder padding.

Finding RTW sport coats has been the biggest ***** of my menswear experience, second only to finding RTW suits that fit (I'm not looking to go the MTM route at this time). As such, I have only found two jackets that I would say really fit me pretty well for my tastes - an early-season Officine Generale which has tragically suffered some damage to the shoulders due to improper care and a recent Drake's jacket.

 

[clee1982]

are you looking for sports coat proper or more like pair with jeans or chino?

If the latter and unconstruct, I would say forget about your traditional CM stuff just go for Boglioli/Eleventry and such..., yes it will have high gorge and higher buttoning point and might be a bit too "2012" now, but it would work just fine for the non-CM case

 

[whorishconsumer]

are you looking for sports coat proper or more like pair with jeans or chino?

If the latter and unconstruct, I would say forget about your traditional CM stuff just go for Boglioli/Eleventry and such..., yes it will have high gorge and higher buttoning point and might be a bit too "2012" now, but it would work just fine for the non-CM case

Probably more the jeans and chino route. Unfortunately most of those modern Italian brands have cuts that are too small/tight for me. I like the classic-ish direction of Drake's with the 3-roll-2 (granted that's actually Lardini, as I understand it). I have been looking at Thom Sweeney RTW.

Really I'm down for anything that actually fits me.

 

[Phoenician]

I have three pairs of Chelseas. Granted they are all Saint Laurent/Celine, so either more or less fitting for formalwear. They do indeed fit me without concern.

Single monks/double monks continue to intrigue me. How about triple monks? Or six-buckle monks? How many buckles are acceptable?

I think that’s one beauty with Chelsea’, they make them in very casual ones and others are very formap looking but the fit is generally superb to me.
regarding monks, I like them very sleek since I’ll use them for an Oxford replacement, so one buckle for me, although I’ve seen some sleek and sculptured 2 buckles, but didn’t like enough to buy

 

[clee1982]

Probably more the jeans and chino route. Unfortunately most of those modern Italian brands have cuts that are too small/tight for me. I like the classic-ish direction of Drake's with the 3-roll-2 (granted that's actually Lardini, as I understand it). I have been looking at Thom Sweeney RTW.

Really I'm down for anything that actually fits me.

I like Thom Sweeney, but thought you want to skip "English"? Drakes is no go for me because the finish button (need to chop the length for me), how about just SuitSupply/Spier MacKay, not all of them are "slim" cut

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I think that’s one beauty with Chelsea’, they make them in very casual ones and others are very formap looking but the fit is generally superb to me.
regarding monks, I like them very sleek since I’ll use them for an Oxford replacement, so one buckle for me, although I’ve seen some sleek and sculptured 2 buckles, but didn’t like enough to buy

I classify chelsea boots into three categories:

• dressy, or versatile, which is most of them -- a dressy last can usually be dressed down comfortably
• casual, or rugged -- the blundstone family of chunkier chelseas
• SLP -- self-explanatory, sleeker than even most dressy chelseas and with a more substantial heel, made for the rock stars. Kind of dressy in that it can be dressed up ifneedsbe, but intended for specific casual purposes.

I think it's worth breaking SLP out as its own category, distinct from the dressy and casual families.

 

[WillingToLearn]

i just watched this - the liverano documentary. surprisingly, i found him to come off as rather unlikable in the first 15 minutes, although he was very patient with his sister-in-law telling the camera he didn't know anything and she showed him how to sew...ironic that Qemal is no longer there and he was discussed as part of the future.

I Colori di Antonio

thearmoury.com

 

[whorishconsumer]

I like Thom Sweeney, but thought you want to skip "English"? Drakes is no go for me because the finish button (need to chop the length for me), how about just SuitSupply/Spier MacKay, not all of them are "slim" cut

Specifically this jacket, which I'm about to purchase:

I classify chelsea boots into three categories:

• dressy, or versatile, which is most of them -- a dressy last can usually be dressed down comfortably
• casual, or rugged -- the blundstone family of chunkier chelseas
• SLP -- self-explanatory, sleeker than even most dressy chelseas and with a more substantial heel, made for the rock stars. Kind of dressy in that it can be dressed up ifneedsbe, but intended for specific casual purposes.

I think it's worth breaking SLP out as its own category, distinct from the dressy and casual families.

I agree with this. I have ample representation from the latter two categories, none from the first. On that note, after giving the EG Chelseas a go, I think I've officially written off black oxfords for now. Instead I'm targeting these:

It's a single monk, which some of you did not approve of, but has the split toe. I just like them.

 

[whorishconsumer]

On another matter, I have been on the hunt for a thick leather belt but have had zero luck. The only brand of which I'm aware that makes thicker belts, and belts adjacent to a style I'm going for, is Cucinelli, although I can't find any current offerings that quite match my vision.

I'm looking for a calfskin-or-similar belt, again thick, ideally with some level of complexity in the rendering, whether that be braiding, twisting or just unevenness in the surface, and finished with a fat, brass buckle (not cowboy-size, just not dainty). Ideally it would be cherry or burgundy in color. I don't want a bridle belt and and I'm not looking for a fully-woven belt - just a belt with some intricacy to it. Barring everything else, though, it should be thick.

This doesn't quite hit the mark but gives some sense of what I'm thinking:

Suggestions and links welcome.

 

[Gus]

W. Kleinberg makes some very nice quality belts here in the USA. If looking for a thicker belt check out the Bison or Shark skin. They also offer a variety of buckle options. https://www.wkleinberg.com/men/belts/