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A Rake in Progress (DC resident!) posted a review of his Anglo-American MTM suit. Not sure I like the way the left lapel (as worn) hooks over the button but that's just me. I had a vintage Paul Stuart that did that. Makes for a unique look I guess.
Anglo-Italian Suit Made-to-Measure Suit Review
A Rake in Progress reviews a made-to-measure Anglo-Italian charcoal double-breasted suit.www.arakeinprogress.com
I love Anglo-Italian's aesthetic and Jake and Alex are some of the nicest people you'll meet. Their product is basically exactly what I want in construction, design, etc.
That little turn at the button point on the belly seems to be getting more and more dramatic every season. I feel like sometimes, the buttonhole doesn't align perfectly where it should so it does that weird fold thing in his pics.
Done properly, though, it's fine. See both of them at Pitti:
View attachment 1325329 View attachment 1325330
this earlier pic of Jake, though, it looks less dramatic:
Or, could just be the inherent consistency question given they're made in Italy.
Anyway, the trousers don't look great on the suit in that review. Wonder if it's just the limitations of MTM and a slim silhouette (how his calves kick back and interrupt the line on his shin).
I personally thought the trousers looked awful on me when I tried their fitting model, but also I don't like pleats.
Also, when I put them on, hilariously, Alex came up behind me and hiked them waaaay up lol.
I love Anglo-Italian's aesthetic and Jake and Alex are some of the nicest people you'll meet. Their product is basically exactly what I want in construction, design, etc.
That little turn at the button point on the belly seems to be getting more and more dramatic every season. I feel like sometimes, the buttonhole doesn't align perfectly where it should so it does that weird fold thing in his pics.
Done properly, though, it's fine. See both of them at Pitti:
View attachment 1325329 View attachment 1325330
this earlier pic of Jake, though, it looks less dramatic:
Or, could just be the inherent consistency question given they're made in Italy.
Anyway, the trousers don't look great on the suit in that review. Wonder if it's just the limitations of MTM and a slim silhouette (how his calves kick back and interrupt the line on his shin).
I personally thought the trousers looked awful on me when I tried their fitting model, but also I don't like pleats.
Also, when I put them on, hilariously, Alex came up behind me and hiked them waaaay up lol.
Do you know if Angelo charges extra for the Appreciation stash?
I have runner’s calves as well, although Army and not Marine... ? I think the comments on the lapel overlapping the button relate to a mixture of styles. That contrivance is usually employed on shawl collared jackets. Caught my eye which is why I mentioned it on Insta.Bear with me as I've never really posted here before, but yes, my prominent calves and locked leg standing posture do make achieving clean lines on my trousers fairly difficult. I also think the pants are maybe slightly slimmer than is ideal given the silhouette of the jacket. It may look slightly top heavy as a result.
As for the turn at the button, I'm all ears if you think something is wrong with the buttoning point and can be fixed. I didn't specify any changes to it, this is how Alex designed it to fit. Possible it's an unintended consequence of being MTM, not bespoke of course.
I have runner’s calves as well, although Army and not Marine... ? I think the comments on the lapel overlapping the button relate to a mixture of styles. That contrivance is usually employed on shawl collared jackets. Caught my eye which is why I mentioned it on Insta.
Don’t sweat this place. Folks make some direct and sometimes caustic comments but there is lots of great info and discussions.
This place has a rhythm not unlike a barracks.I appreciate honest feedback, I really do, so keep it coming. I'll adjust to the different tenor soon enough.
If it doesn’t bother you then don’t worry about it.Bear with me as I've never really posted here before, but yes, my prominent calves and locked leg standing posture do make achieving clean lines on my trousers fairly difficult. I also think the pants are maybe slightly slimmer than is ideal given the silhouette of the jacket. It may look slightly top heavy as a result.
As for the turn at the button, I'm all ears if you think something is wrong with the buttoning point and can be fixed. I didn't specify any changes to it, this is how Alex designed it to fit. Possible it's an unintended consequence of being MTM, not bespoke of course.
Not sure I like the way the left lapel (as worn) hooks over the button but that's just me. I had a vintage Paul Stuart that did that. Makes for a unique look I guess.
I believe the “Signature” model was the precursor to Black Label. Purple Label was already in existence.I've got an old Ralph Lauren "Signature" line (I think that's what it was called - the predecessor to Purple Label) DB suit where the lapel curves over the top button a little. It's almost like a double-breasted version of a three-roll-to-two lapel.
I thought that it might be more of a US, or "trad" design feature but never bothered investigating further.