MC General Chat

[smittycl]

I'm not really into their DB suits. Wouldn't go there for one.

 

[clee1982]

A Rake in Progress (DC resident!) posted a review of his Anglo-American MTM suit. Not sure I like the way the left lapel (as worn) hooks over the button but that's just me. I had a vintage Paul Stuart that did that. Makes for a unique look I guess.

Anglo-Italian Suit Made-to-Measure Suit Review

A Rake in Progress reviews a made-to-measure Anglo-Italian charcoal double-breasted suit.

www.arakeinprogress.com

didn't read the whole thing, scroll down to the bottom, not feeling those lapel on the bottom part...

also I was under the impression SM and SS both due MtM as well (his original point), but if it's aesthetics, I suppose go for it, but certainly not mine aesthetics...

 

[clee1982]

I love Anglo-Italian's aesthetic and Jake and Alex are some of the nicest people you'll meet. Their product is basically exactly what I want in construction, design, etc.

That little turn at the button point on the belly seems to be getting more and more dramatic every season. I feel like sometimes, the buttonhole doesn't align perfectly where it should so it does that weird fold thing in his pics.

Done properly, though, it's fine. See both of them at Pitti:

View attachment 1325329 View attachment 1325330

this earlier pic of Jake, though, it looks less dramatic:

Or, could just be the inherent consistency question given they're made in Italy.

Anyway, the trousers don't look great on the suit in that review. Wonder if it's just the limitations of MTM and a slim silhouette (how his calves kick back and interrupt the line on his shin).

I personally thought the trousers looked awful on me when I tried their fitting model, but also I don't like pleats.

Also, when I put them on, hilariously, Alex came up behind me and hiked them waaaay up lol.

might be uneven shoulder height (which is the case for almost everyone, just how much), so end up pulling one side up a bit?

 

[arakeinprogress]

Bear with me as I've never really posted here before, but yes, my prominent calves and locked leg standing posture do make achieving clean lines on my trousers fairly difficult. I also think the pants are maybe slightly slimmer than is ideal given the silhouette of the jacket. It may look slightly top heavy as a result.

As for the turn at the button, I'm all ears if you think something is wrong with the buttoning point and can be fixed. I didn't specify any changes to it, this is how Alex designed it to fit. Possible it's an unintended consequence of being MTM, not bespoke of course.

I love Anglo-Italian's aesthetic and Jake and Alex are some of the nicest people you'll meet. Their product is basically exactly what I want in construction, design, etc.

That little turn at the button point on the belly seems to be getting more and more dramatic every season. I feel like sometimes, the buttonhole doesn't align perfectly where it should so it does that weird fold thing in his pics.

Done properly, though, it's fine. See both of them at Pitti:

View attachment 1325329 View attachment 1325330

this earlier pic of Jake, though, it looks less dramatic:

Or, could just be the inherent consistency question given they're made in Italy.

Anyway, the trousers don't look great on the suit in that review. Wonder if it's just the limitations of MTM and a slim silhouette (how his calves kick back and interrupt the line on his shin).

I personally thought the trousers looked awful on me when I tried their fitting model, but also I don't like pleats.

Also, when I put them on, hilariously, Alex came up behind me and hiked them waaaay up lol.

 

[arakeinprogress]

The mustache is courtesy of Marine Corps uniform regulations. I only kept it a week, mostly as a gag.

Do you know if Angelo charges extra for the Appreciation stash?

 

[smittycl]

Bear with me as I've never really posted here before, but yes, my prominent calves and locked leg standing posture do make achieving clean lines on my trousers fairly difficult. I also think the pants are maybe slightly slimmer than is ideal given the silhouette of the jacket. It may look slightly top heavy as a result.

As for the turn at the button, I'm all ears if you think something is wrong with the buttoning point and can be fixed. I didn't specify any changes to it, this is how Alex designed it to fit. Possible it's an unintended consequence of being MTM, not bespoke of course.

I have runner’s calves as well, although Army and not Marine... ? I think the comments on the lapel overlapping the button relate to a mixture of styles. That contrivance is usually employed on shawl collared jackets. Caught my eye which is why I mentioned it on Insta.

Don’t sweat this place. Folks make some direct and sometimes caustic comments but there is lots of great info and discussions.

 

[arakeinprogress]

I appreciate honest feedback, I really do, so keep it coming. I'll adjust to the different tenor soon enough.

I have runner’s calves as well, although Army and not Marine... ? I think the comments on the lapel overlapping the button relate to a mixture of styles. That contrivance is usually employed on shawl collared jackets. Caught my eye which is why I mentioned it on Insta.

Don’t sweat this place. Folks make some direct and sometimes caustic comments but there is lots of great info and discussions.

 

[beargonefishing]

I'm surprised no one has demanded you burn the garment and dog cuss the tailors for being abject failures. The post and review are still relatively new, so chickens hatching applies.

 

[smittycl]

I appreciate honest feedback, I really do, so keep it coming. I'll adjust to the different tenor soon enough.

This place has a rhythm not unlike a barracks.

 

[mossrockss]

Bear with me as I've never really posted here before, but yes, my prominent calves and locked leg standing posture do make achieving clean lines on my trousers fairly difficult. I also think the pants are maybe slightly slimmer than is ideal given the silhouette of the jacket. It may look slightly top heavy as a result.

As for the turn at the button, I'm all ears if you think something is wrong with the buttoning point and can be fixed. I didn't specify any changes to it, this is how Alex designed it to fit. Possible it's an unintended consequence of being MTM, not bespoke of course.

If it doesn’t bother you then don’t worry about it.
the pants look good everywhere else on you. Your plan to widen the hem is a good one though. The single pleat on me was just no good.
But all in all it’s a really good suit.

 

[Journeyman]

Not sure I like the way the left lapel (as worn) hooks over the button but that's just me. I had a vintage Paul Stuart that did that. Makes for a unique look I guess.

I've got an old Ralph Lauren "Signature" line (I think that's what it was called - the predecessor to Purple Label) DB suit where the lapel curves over the top button a little. It's almost like a double-breasted version of a three-roll-to-two lapel.

I thought that it might be more of a US, or "trad" design feature but never bothered investigating further.

 

[bry2000]

I've got an old Ralph Lauren "Signature" line (I think that's what it was called - the predecessor to Purple Label) DB suit where the lapel curves over the top button a little. It's almost like a double-breasted version of a three-roll-to-two lapel.

I thought that it might be more of a US, or "trad" design feature but never bothered investigating further.

I believe the “Signature” model was the precursor to Black Label. Purple Label was already in existence.

 

[clee1982]

I had one signature (not a DB), was too big, sold it, all I could remember was it had more roping, fairly high rise pants, got to be more than 20 years old now I suppose...

 

[dieworkwear]

The Cut has an article about the infectious joy of Anthony Hopkin's Twitter page, where you can find random gems like these









Anyway, I was looking up photos of him afterward and he had it going on in some CM when he was young (and now too)

 

[rdhui2002]

What do you guys think of this pattern? This is from scabal's Heroic catalogue
Originally I was trying to go for something classic and subtle,
but this caught my eye and I went ahead to make a 3-piece suit of it.
Is it too loud?
I don't want to look like a douche bag like the following pic..
Have I made a huge mistake?