MC General Chat

[clee1982]

I mean that’s textbook result (USD strengthen) won’t be 1 for 1 though. PS have made in Japan stuff for Japanese market but not same stuff

 

[smittycl]

Unless he tariffs Japan.


The other unknown is whether the Canadian dollar sinks as a result of the tariffs. If so, that would likely offset some of the tariff’s effect.

@NickPollica was quoted in the NYTimes recently about the difficulty in finding U.S.-based suppliers for his clothing line. That said, maybe Hickey Freeman / Oxxford / Martin Greenfield can scale up.

I was planning on commissioning a MTM soon, and I’ll likely go with Samuelsohn to support local jobs.

And as for Trump, he’s signaling that EU tariffs are on the way.

Yeah, they are next. Best to grab any EU gems now. Have some fabric for a NMWA x Sartoria Carrara commission later this year. Hope that's still possible.

 

[othertravel]

Yeah, they are next. Best to grab any EU gems now. Have some fabric for a NMWA x Sartoria Carrara commission later this year. Hope that's still possible.

In all seriousness, might be cheaper to fly to Italy and get it made there.

I ran the numbers a while back on Tom Ford MTM. It’s actually cheaper to fly out to Milan, stay in a nice hotel, and get your suit made there - with funds left over. Gives you a sense of the North American markup.

 

[smittycl]

In all seriousness, might be cheaper to fly to Italy and get it made there.

I ran the numbers a while back on Tom Ford MTM. It’s actually cheaper to fly out to Milan, stay in a nice hotel, and get your suit made there - with funds left over. Gives you a sense of the North American markup.

I have so much tailoring now any new purchases are clearly wants over needs. Will stick to Greg's excellent cut and process as long as it makes financial sense!

I just scored two amazing linen suits from the Armoury from LuxeSwap (he bought their warehouse remainders). One santandrea, one Ring Jacket. I've said it before but at age 59 they might be the last things I really need.

 

[DapperDan15]

Our counter-tariffs (Canada) are just about the stupidest thing we could have chosen to do, from a customer perspective. It'll make everything more expensive for ordinary people (but not for the politicians!).

Hopefully it won't affect some recent orders too badly. Anyone know if there's still a minimum threshold at which they don't apply?

 

[Keyser_Söze]

Our counter-tariffs (Canada) are just about the stupidest thing we could have chosen to do, from a customer perspective. It'll make everything more expensive for ordinary people (but not for the politicians!).

Hopefully it won't effect some recent orders too badly. Anyone know if there's still a minimum threshold at which they don't apply?

Yeah, Canada played their cards wrong unfortunately.

 

[othertravel]

I have so much tailoring now any new purchases are clearly wants over needs. Will stick to Greg's excellent cut and process as long as it makes financial sense!

I just scored two amazing linen suits from the Armoury from LuxeSwap (he bought their warehouse remainders). One santandrea, one Ring Jacket. I've said it before but at age 59 they might be the last things I really need.

For the Ring Jacket item, did you stay TTS or size up?

 

[clee1982]

Armoury Ring Jacket I would say TTS, Japanese market Ring Jacket would be a different story

 

[othertravel]

FYI:

Ede and Ravenscroft is having a sale, and you can get an extra 10% off discounted items using the code EXTRA10

Some of the dress shirts are Made in England. And all the ties (from what I can see) are also made in England.

I think their stock of ties is from the pre-pandemic era - I can’t imagine a regular price of 66 pound sterling in 2025:

Pink Repe Hopsack Stripe Woven Tie

Our stripe tie have been woven using multiple weave structures this textural stripe tie takes a modern twist on a classic design Handmade in London 100% silk 8.5 cm width Woven Branded tipping Self-keeper loop Ref. M032201881

shop.edeandravenscroft.com

So with the 10% off kicker, many of the ties are only $37 USD.

I don’t know if the ties are made by Drake’s or Seaward and Stern - but they’re a great value either way. I just ordered a few items. The designs also remind me of old RLPL, when the ties were made by Turnbull & Asser.

Edit: Looking at some of the ties on eBay, they have the Seaward and Stern marking.

 

[smittycl]

For the Ring Jacket item, did you stay TTS or size up?

Sized up to 54 from my usual 52. Jacket fit well but pants are generously cut and need some taking in.

 

[clee1982]

FYI:

Ede and Ravenscroft is having a sale, and you can get an extra 10% off discounted items using the code EXTRA10

Some of the dress shirts are Made in England. And all the ties (from what I can see) are also made in England.

I think their stock of ties is from the pre-pandemic era - I can’t imagine a regular price of 66 pound sterling in 2025:

Pink Repe Hopsack Stripe Woven Tie

Our stripe tie have been woven using multiple weave structures this textural stripe tie takes a modern twist on a classic design Handmade in London 100% silk 8.5 cm width Woven Branded tipping Self-keeper loop Ref. M032201881

shop.edeandravenscroft.com

So with the 10% off kicker, many of the ties are only $37 USD.

I don’t know if the ties are made by Drake’s or Seaward and Stern - but they’re a great value either way. I just ordered a few items. The designs also remind me of old RLPL, when the ties were made by Turnbull & Asser.

Edit: Looking at some of the ties on eBay, they have the Seaward and Stern marking.

Tangential related, was in UES a few days ago, passed by New & Lingwood surprise they were still around, I remember they moved in a year before COVID (and one of the Paul Stuart Phineas Cole S.A. went there), thought their NYC shop would fold during COVID, pleasantly surprise they were still around. Though not sure if I would ever buy anything from them.

 

[othertravel]

N&L doesn’t fit into a neat category like other retailers. Their tailoring is made by Wensum in Mauritania (?) and is half canvassed. Shoes by C&J and Cheaney. Ties made in Italy. And dressing gowns made in England retailing for thousands of dollars on the high end.

I guess their business model works for them.

 

[clee1982]

Actually dressing gowns is about the only thing that’s unique to them (NYC wise, at certain point Paul Starr and BG had good coverage but not anymore, not that I would ever buy…)

 

[clee1982]

I remember one year (2014?) Paul Stuart had some amazing $2k luxurious dressing gown somewhat smoking jacket like, it was somehow sold out before made to sale (else I might have bought for my dad then)

 

[smittycl]

I remember one year (2014?) Paul Stuart had some amazing $2k luxurious dressing gown somewhat smoking jacket like, it was somehow sold out before made to sale (else I might have bought for my dad then)

Dressing gowns kinda neat but not really applicable anymore, at least in any circle I move in. Nice look but I would need to live the UES party life, Hamptons, and also with an elegant mistress…