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othertravel

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I don't know. $1,500 for a grey polo shirt with "BRIONI" embroidered on the bottom looks very questionable.

Grey suit looks short and has a high buttoning point. Weird overlapping quarters. Also $5,000 for a RTW suit? =/
Obviously fit is kings. And if Brioni doesn’t look good on you, then it’s not worth the price.

That said, the craftsmanship is important if you don’t mind the price.

Take Drake’s tailoring for example. Their prices are reaching Canali or Zegna mainline levels. But the amount of handwork and construction is closer to Lardini or PRL.

But Brioni only has a few rivals in terms of the quality of their garments. They’re essentially in the same league as Attolini or Saint Andrews for RTW.

But again, if the fit doesn’t look good on you, it’s not worth it. I’ve tried a few Brioni models on. The Gaetano was great, while Colloseo and Brunico were meh. So although I wouldn’t purchase the last two models even on sale, you can’t deny the amount of work that goes into each garment, which in my opinion, justifies the price.
 

lordsuperb

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I haven’t really bought as many shoes the past few years ever since I started doing bespoke. For awhile I was buying at least one new pair a year sometimes up to 3 pairs. Now I buy like 1 pair of bespoke shoes every other year.
Shoes were just an example, I've seen price increases across the board with the brands I frequent. Even my tailor given the exchange rate has made things worth reconsidering given the rise in prices over the past two years. I don't foresee them dropping prices anytime soon.
 

dieworkwear

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Obviously fit is kings. And if Brioni doesn’t look good on you, then it’s not worth the price.

That said, the craftsmanship is important if you don’t mind the price.

Take Drake’s tailoring for example. Their prices are reaching Canali or Zegna mainline levels. But the amount of handwork and construction is closer to Lardini or PRL.

But Brioni only has a few rivals in terms of the quality of their garments. They’re essentially in the same league as Attolini or Saint Andrews for RTW.

But again, if the fit doesn’t look good on you, it’s not worth it. I’ve tried a few Brioni models on. The Gaetano was great, while Colloseo and Brunico were meh. So although I wouldn’t purchase the last two models even on sale, you can’t deny the amount of work that goes into each garment, which in my opinion, justifies the price.
I know I've said on here that RTW is often unfairly written off ...

... but at those prices, I also don't know why someone wouldn't just go bespoke.

(Realize all the arguments have been made before -- risk, Tom Ford's silhouette, convenience, etc. But as a practical matter, most people on here who spend $5k on a suit also just go bespoke)

Shoes were just an example, I've seen price increases across the board with the brands I frequent. Even my tailor given the exchange rate has made things worth reconsidering given the rise in prices over the past two years. I don't foresee them dropping prices anytime soon.
Why not then just find a new tailor?
 

Despos

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Brioni doesn't use as much hand work in their garments as the other brands mentioned but I see artistry in their machine work. It's way above other makers. Heard once but can't verify the Italian Gov or some agency questioned Brioni about claims of being "hand made" and they had to adjust their work accordingly. Not taking anything away from them. Think they just lost their way and vision. If you go from making 70,000 suits a year to 30,000, something is off.

To be transparent about pricing, will share what I have done.
Determined when I started the business in 1981 that I wouldn't nickel and dime anyone and didn't want to adjust pricing for bogus reasons. Committed to raising prices 10% every three years. Every client knows the price goes up 10% and when. It worked for me and have stuck to it.
Actually I only raise prices on the jacket part of the suit as it is the most time consuming. Never know how long a jacket may take to complete. Maybe need an extra fitting or two. An unexpected alteration can consume lots of time that could be spent making a garment. Sometimes extra cloth is needed for a feature or some reason. All this is absorbed into the price. Didn't want to price myself out of the trouser market. Trousers don't take as long to make and wanted to keep my trouser maker busy. Didn't raise trouser prices for over 10 years, Did raise trouser price by 50.00 on the last increase.

Every space I used had yearly rent increases. My tailors got raises every 18 months. Cloth and supplies get more expensive. It's pretty simple to see prices have to increase.
Don't want to do MTM to supplement income but may have to soon. Have always had a shirt maker on board and that helps some. Helps only a little because I do it as a convenience to clients but don't have clients who only order shirts and not the custom clothes.
Do see an up tick in inquiries of new clients when other tailor's prices get higher.
 
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lordsuperb

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Why not then just find a new tailor?
Bespoke has been a headache given my body type and the constant travel for fittings. I'm a bit leary about dropping large sums of money these days with a new maker. I think it makes sense to bow out for now and save up for a larger order to achieve some economies of scale.
 

imatlas

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@Despos 10% every 3 years seems low, which I'm sure your customers appreciate. Have you been able to keep up with your rising costs at this rate, or has it squeezed your margins, if you don't mind my asking?
 

Despos

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@Despos 10% every 3 years seems low, which I'm sure your customers appreciate. Have you been able to keep up with your rising costs at this rate, or has it squeezed your margins, if you don't mind my asking?
it‘s a long story without a happy ending
 

dieworkwear

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Seriously though which shoe thread has that kind MTO, EB?
It's literally every shoe thread at this point (and half of CM now is basically just shoe threads). Jewel-toned shoes like emerald green tassel loafers, ruby red field boots, navy double monks, etc. Many made in strange and exotic leathers combined with suede panels. Oxfords are worn with jeans. Fiddleback waists are slapped on casual split-toe shoes. Just combos that don't make any sense in any kind of classic men's style language.
 

Encathol Epistemia

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Shoes, man... I just don't get it.
 

smittycl

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It's literally every shoe thread at this point (and half of CM now is basically just shoe threads). Jewel-toned shoes like emerald green tassel loafers, ruby red field boots, navy double monks, etc. Many made in strange and exotic leathers combined with suede panels. Oxfords are worn with jeans. Fiddleback waists are slapped on casual split-toe shoes. Just combos that don't make any sense in any kind of classic men's style language.
The actual number of purchases like that must be low. Just a loud but tiny group of guys windbagging about idiosyncratic shoes while the rest of us walk around in Alden and C&J.
 

gdl203

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CM these days is either ruby red boots MTOs or uber-normie discussions around which 3 shades of blue Shetland sweater should I own
 

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