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MC General Chat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Aug 4, 2012.

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  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    It's not about it being correct or incorrect, it's about achieving the kind of look you want, and asking advice from people who share that view. That jacket isn't correct or incorrect because of the material (though, I don't think it's ideal), it's just not a cut that jives with the kind of look most of MC is focused on. If that's the look you want, you might find people who are more helpful over at the SWD side of the board. The idea that a sport coat can only be cut in one way is kind of ridiculous, and if you keep asking people here, you'll get answers that basically tell you there are hardline rules about XYZ. That's only true if you're trying to achieve a classic, tailored look, which I don't think is what you're trying to do.


    That one's nice. I also like 880101, 880102, and maybe 880014.

    Are you not able to get physical swatches? I've found online representations of color and texture to be really unreliable. I always ask if the company can send me swatches.

    Also, can you do CMT?
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  2. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus

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    101 and 101 are great, if not a little too un-FU for what I want in this though. 014 is nice. This is my shitty pic of the real swatches I have here.

    Whats CMT?
     
  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    For FU, I definitely like 880001 the best. 880007 might be able to work. 880006 looks nice, but I think it might be too light in shade.

    CMT is just short for "cut, make, trim" - which means supplying the tailor with your own fabric and asking him to "cut, make, trim." Some people do it to save costs on cloth (since the tailor will sometimes have a mark up). Others do it because they want to use a special cloth they cant get from the tailor. It comes with some risk, however. If you supply the tailor with your own cloth, you're assuming the cloth takes to a needle and iron well. You're also assuming that the tailor won't mess up and need extra cloth at some point. But ... if you want to expand your options, it can also be nice to do CMT.

    You might want to post this question at the Unfunded Liabilities thread. People often ask for opinions on cloth there, and it's where most of such conversations are held.
     
    2 people like this.
  4. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    880001 certainly looks interesting, but I think my favorite on the sheet is 880005. I also like 880008 quite a lot. Not a big fan of the blue check against the olive in 880006 though- the colors just don't mesh for me, though it would add an interesting opportunity to pull the color out with other elements in the outfit.
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
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  5. Liquidus

    Liquidus Well-Known Member

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    I did a double-take when I saw Spoo ask that question.
     
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus

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    Its just as strange for me.
     
  7. NOBD

    NOBD Well-Known Member

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    100 and 101. Hurray for gray.
     
  8. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    :lol:

    Who's the tailor?
     
  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Those look more rustic than I'd expect you to go for, Spoo.
     
  10. aj_del

    aj_del Well-Known Member

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    880101 for me followed by 880012
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  11. Dewi

    Dewi Well-Known Member

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    I'd go with 880008 or 880015. Or if you want to go full FU, 880104.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  12. Holdfast

    Holdfast Well-Known Member

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    Spoo, what fabrics are these?

    Some of them look very similar (read: identical) to the H&S Sherry Tweed II book, but the ordering/numbering is quite different and there are also some others that I don't think are in that book. If they are from there, I have the grey/blue-overcheck and the green/yellow-overcheck (I think they might be 2 & 4 from your swatches, but 1 & 4 in the H&S book) currently being made up as jackets at the moment. Just waiting for final fitting. If they are from this book, you can find bigger photos online at http://deoost.nl/hollandandsherry-fabrics-stoffen/sherry-tweed-hs1188
    The fabric makes up very nicely indeed, by the way. What I would say is they seem slighter darker/"calmer" when made-up than when looked at in the small swatches, so being a little aggressive on your fabric choice is OK. Anyway, based on seeing them in person in the larger fabric bunch, I liked lots of them. In general I thought the larger scale checks were nicer than the denser ones. There was plum with yellowish check and a charcoal with brown/orange-ish check that were particularly cool. There are some nice donegals towards the back of the book, too, but they're not in your pic and probably not what you're after right now anyway.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2012
  13. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    or a gray/burgundy wool/cashmere mix. :)


    880104 OBVI

    if not that, im not sure. i like the one you picked, and the one beneath it. or the darker gray (blk/wht) herringbone. or the gun clubs.


    I KNOW I KNOW!!! but ill let spoo say when he is ready.
     
  14. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus

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    Wow, talk about ghost whisperer. How are you both? Its been a really long time.



    Thats precisely the book it is, yes. The purplish with the yellow overcheck is the one that I was mentioning that I was leaning towards.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  15. Holdfast

    Holdfast Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  16. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    My plans have been foiled!
    It turns out that NSM always lines the sleeves. :(
     
  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    ^unlined sleeves are significantly harder to get in and out of though.
     
  18. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Yeah. That's what NSM said and that's why they always line the sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2012
  19. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Well-Known Member

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    I just had a navy linen safari jacket made. Completely unlined, including the sleeves. I was actually worried about the same problem, but I can get in and out of it fine. You don't even notice it.

    I don't have the garment on me right now, and am traveling for the next month, but in my head, this could be because of how the safari jacket has fuller sleeves? That might account for it, but I don't have my NSM sport coat and Ascot Chang safari jacket to compare.

    As an aside, I couldn't afford to have the safari jacket made with a full horsehair canvas, so I just had them fuse part of the fronts (lapels and along the buttons/ buttonholes). I was a bit worried when it arrived fresh out of the box, as the lapels were pressed quite flat and the whole thing looked quite two dimensional. But after some wearing, the fused sections have softened up, and even taken on quite an impressive roll. I assume this is because of the heavy linen holding its shape? I thought it was kind of interesting, and have been wondering if I could get the same effect with a heavy cotton twill or tweed (am thinking about having two more safari jackets made from these materials).
     
  20. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    I don't think that these standards necessarily apply to casualwear. A traditionally proportioned jacket, to me, looks odd with things like jeans. To me, it's nearly necessary to really mess around with proportion and/or materials, and or construction in order to get a jacket to look good worn casually. I usually go one of 2 routes - the first is a very short jacket with a boxy silhouette worn with very baggy (I'm talking Yamamoto level) pants. The second is one that is slightly longer, but still quite short by classic standards, and made from some sort of knit or boiled wool material. I stand at 5'11", and those jackets, for me, are between 28" and 29" measured in the back. Of course, those are more like cardigans in jacket form then anything else. Barena does a lot of these, and they look great worn casually. Brands like Boglioli (and especially their collaborations with the Japanese brand Kolor) and, well, Kolor, also do a terrific job. I sometimes like a longer skirt and very fitted silhouette - Dolce and Gabanna cuts these jackets incredibly well. They are much more built up than Neapolitan jackets - I think of them as the Continental fit with more sex appeal and swagger. But for those, I'll always have them in a very casual material, like a heavy flannel.

    The A.P.C. jackets are a modern take on the quite boxy, Parisian silhouette. Sort of the male equivalent of the "Jolie laide" idea, which is often more interesting in the long run than plain "jolie".
     
    2 people like this.

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