- Sep 21, 2012
- Reaction score
STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
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Vox strongly disagrees with me on the extended shoulder issue because of this specific trade-off. Personally, I think it happens rarely and in specific circumstances -- very specific positions and/ or very extended shoulders.
So these were quickly taken in the hall and obviously bad lighting, etc., whatever.If you're comfortable, I'd be curious to see a photo.
My understanding is that this is the trade-off with an extended shoulder. You can see the space created between the sleeve and the natural arm here. A Huntsman jacket is even more pronounced. When you pitch your shoulders forward, the sleevehead collapses into this empty space.
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Is the rest of the coat cut well for you? The jacket's midsection looks strange. I'm curious if it's just a size too small for you.So these were quickly taken in the hall and obviously bad lighting, etc., whatever.
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In the first my hand is reaching totally forwards on my knee. The second I'm stretching to show how much padding is visible from the side, and in the third my elbow is in the same position as Bale.
Clearly the padding is visible, as it will be with any jacket from Huntsman, but that kind of collapse isn't evident unless I were to hold my arms akimbo. And it's still not as bad as Bale's.
It's just the way the fabric drapes, plus my small midsection (I'm a 38/27). Here's the fit standing:Is the rest of the coat cut well for you? The jacket's midsection looks strange. I'm curious if it's just a size too small for you.
@Despos would know better than me whether it's possible to have an extended shoulder without collapsing in the sleevehead. I don't understand how it can be done.
Weren’t those suits specifically designed by Giorgio Armani to give an 80s power suit look to Bruce Wayne? Strong shoulder, good amount of extension and you’ll always see the upper sleeve twist or collapse in a variety of positions. As you mentioned, that’s not ill-fitting, it’s a style preference.Vox strongly disagrees with me on the extended shoulder issue because of this specific trade-off. Personally, I think it happens rarely and in specific circumstances -- very specific positions and/ or very extended shoulders.
The photo you posted
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The same suit and not as collapsed
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And again, same suit in a normal position.
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Most guys benefit from a bit of extension in the shoulder because they do not naturally have a V-shaped figure. So a broader shoulder helps achieve that. Obviously, the more extended you get, the more risk you take. Huntsman is naturally extended and padded; that's just their house cut. I would argue A&S is also extended. The more artificial the shoulder, the more space between the sleevehead and your arm, and the more that will be noticeable when you pitch your shoulders forward. Otherwise, I think it looks great.
That would be great. Thanks, Chris. If you're able to, I'd be curious to see how a padded, extended shoulder looks when the wearer is seated with both of his shoulders pitched forward like this photo of Christian Bale below.Don't see how an extended shoulder would contribute or cause this. Precision of matching shoulder slope of the jacket to the shoulder slope of the client and craftsmanship are primary causes. This jacket doesn't sit on shoulders well. When he moves the jacket lifts off the shoulder and the shoulder construction is such that it doesn't conform to the shoulder curve.
When I can find someone to take a quick video, will show you how my jackets move when you move. The shoulder presses against the body and allows unhindered movement while staying anchored along the shoulder and at the neck. A video would show much more than a picture. You will see how the jacket flexes without pulling away. Hopefully it will show up in a video. Will try