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dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Vox strongly disagrees with me on the extended shoulder issue because of this specific trade-off. Personally, I think it happens rarely and in specific circumstances -- very specific positions and/ or very extended shoulders.

The photo you posted

d5d062772ed5387c35582f8b688f21e1.jpg


The same suit and not as collapsed

batmanwatch.jpg



And again, same suit in a normal position.

46f964753601bd96c51868a4f744cc90.jpg



Most guys benefit from a bit of extension in the shoulder because they do not naturally have a V-shaped figure. So a broader shoulder helps achieve that. Obviously, the more extended you get, the more risk you take. Huntsman is naturally extended and padded; that's just their house cut. I would argue A&S is also extended. The more artificial the shoulder, the more space between the sleevehead and your arm, and the more that will be noticeable when you pitch your shoulders forward. Otherwise, I think it looks great.
 

Nobilis Animus

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If you're comfortable, I'd be curious to see a photo.

My understanding is that this is the trade-off with an extended shoulder. You can see the space created between the sleeve and the natural arm here. A Huntsman jacket is even more pronounced. When you pitch your shoulders forward, the sleevehead collapses into this empty space.

View attachment 1502444
So these were quickly taken in the hall and obviously bad lighting, etc., whatever.

003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg

In the first I'm leaning and my hand is reaching totally forwards on my knee. The second I'm stretching to show how much padding is visible from the side, and in the third my elbow is in the same position as Bale.

Clearly the padding is visible, as it will be with any jacket from Huntsman, but that kind of collapse isn't evident unless I were to hold my arms akimbo. And it's still not as bad as Bale's.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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So these were quickly taken in the hall and obviously bad lighting, etc., whatever.

View attachment 1502503View attachment 1502504View attachment 1502505

In the first my hand is reaching totally forwards on my knee. The second I'm stretching to show how much padding is visible from the side, and in the third my elbow is in the same position as Bale.

Clearly the padding is visible, as it will be with any jacket from Huntsman, but that kind of collapse isn't evident unless I were to hold my arms akimbo. And it's still not as bad as Bale's.
Is the rest of the coat cut well for you? The jacket's midsection looks strange. I'm curious if it's just a size too small for you.

@Despos would know better than me whether it's possible to have an extended shoulder without collapsing in the sleevehead. I don't understand how it can be done.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Is the rest of the coat cut well for you? The jacket's midsection looks strange. I'm curious if it's just a size too small for you.

@Despos would know better than me whether it's possible to have an extended shoulder without collapsing in the sleevehead. I don't understand how it can be done.
It's just the way the fabric drapes, plus my small midsection (I'm a 38/27). Here's the fit standing:

001.jpg

002.jpg

Just a bit of curvature on the sides, which don't hug the body at all. The back and side, in particular, are a fantastic fit.
 

gdl203

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Vox strongly disagrees with me on the extended shoulder issue because of this specific trade-off. Personally, I think it happens rarely and in specific circumstances -- very specific positions and/ or very extended shoulders.

The photo you posted

View attachment 1502473

The same suit and not as collapsed

View attachment 1502472


And again, same suit in a normal position.

View attachment 1502485


Most guys benefit from a bit of extension in the shoulder because they do not naturally have a V-shaped figure. So a broader shoulder helps achieve that. Obviously, the more extended you get, the more risk you take. Huntsman is naturally extended and padded; that's just their house cut. I would argue A&S is also extended. The more artificial the shoulder, the more space between the sleevehead and your arm, and the more that will be noticeable when you pitch your shoulders forward. Otherwise, I think it looks great.
Weren’t those suits specifically designed by Giorgio Armani to give an 80s power suit look to Bruce Wayne? Strong shoulder, good amount of extension and you’ll always see the upper sleeve twist or collapse in a variety of positions. As you mentioned, that’s not ill-fitting, it’s a style preference.
 

Sam H

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Here’s another Christian Bale leaning forward with extended shoulders collapsing photo for posterity
61C20EBC-7ABB-45E5-B7EE-238C6474B974.png
 

Nobilis Animus

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I'll say that I largely agree on the extended shoulder conversation, by the way. An Armani suit will fit very differently - it's not necessary bad, although I still don't like the back bunching.
 

Despos

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Don't see how an extended shoulder would contribute or cause this. Precision of matching shoulder slope of the jacket to the shoulder slope of the client and craftsmanship are primary causes. This jacket doesn't sit on shoulders well. When he moves the jacket lifts off the shoulder and the shoulder construction is such that it doesn't conform to the shoulder curve.
When I can find someone to take a quick video, will show you how my jackets move when you move. The shoulder presses against the body and allows unhindered movement while staying anchored along the shoulder and at the neck. A video would show much more than a picture. You will see how the jacket flexes without pulling away. Hopefully it will show up in a video. Will try
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Don't see how an extended shoulder would contribute or cause this. Precision of matching shoulder slope of the jacket to the shoulder slope of the client and craftsmanship are primary causes. This jacket doesn't sit on shoulders well. When he moves the jacket lifts off the shoulder and the shoulder construction is such that it doesn't conform to the shoulder curve.
When I can find someone to take a quick video, will show you how my jackets move when you move. The shoulder presses against the body and allows unhindered movement while staying anchored along the shoulder and at the neck. A video would show much more than a picture. You will see how the jacket flexes without pulling away. Hopefully it will show up in a video. Will try
That would be great. Thanks, Chris. If you're able to, I'd be curious to see how a padded, extended shoulder looks when the wearer is seated with both of his shoulders pitched forward like this photo of Christian Bale below.

My understanding is that the sleevehead always collapses into the empty space formed by the extension and padding. Curious to see what you show in your video.

d5d062772ed5387c35582f8b688f21e1 (1).jpg
 

gdl203

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The combination of heavy padding, significant shoulder extension and a rather slim upper sleeve is what you see above. Less padding or less extension or a wider upper sleeve are all factors that would reduce this effect.
 

norMD

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I am looking at a pair of dark green/olive suede penny loafers. Over at derfeineherr.de Bernhard rötzel makes a case for Green beeing the new Brown, but I struggle with the usefullness of green shoes. Does anyone have examples of good outfits with green shoes?
 

Nobilis Animus

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Only way I'd do green is as a suede driving moc in the summer, white linen trousers or slim khakis.
 

bourbonbasted

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I have a pair of Belgian Shoes in Loden/moss green suede that I wear a good bit. I generally pair them with brown cords, fawn flannels or dark raw denim. A nice, subtle change of pace but also far from "the new brown."
 

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