- Aug 12, 2010
- Reaction score
So then would you say that even with MTM being the norm, men weren't as observant/obsessive over the minutia of fit?Prior to the mid-19th century, all clothing was made "bespoke" either by a tailor or in the home. The only "ready-to-wear" clothing was workwear made for sailors, miners, and slaves. Ready-to-wear manufacturing was really pioneered in the United States by companies such as Brooks Brothers. But even in the early days of Brooks' history, they had custom tailors just make a ton of clothes in stock sizes.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, British military dress uniforms came from Gieves and Hawkes (separate entities before their merger). Gieves tailored dress uniforms for the Navy; Hawkes for the Army.
For fit issues such as the collar gap, I suppose the "rule" comes from precise tailoring. For fit issues such as the proportion of the suit (e.g. the length of a jacket), I think the "rule" comes from generations of British upper-class tradition. Many of our suit traditions just come from British upper-class norms.