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whorishconsumer

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Prior to the mid-19th century, all clothing was made "bespoke" either by a tailor or in the home. The only "ready-to-wear" clothing was workwear made for sailors, miners, and slaves. Ready-to-wear manufacturing was really pioneered in the United States by companies such as Brooks Brothers. But even in the early days of Brooks' history, they had custom tailors just make a ton of clothes in stock sizes.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, British military dress uniforms came from Gieves and Hawkes (separate entities before their merger). Gieves tailored dress uniforms for the Navy; Hawkes for the Army.

For fit issues such as the collar gap, I suppose the "rule" comes from precise tailoring. For fit issues such as the proportion of the suit (e.g. the length of a jacket), I think the "rule" comes from generations of British upper-class tradition. Many of our suit traditions just come from British upper-class norms.
So then would you say that even with MTM being the norm, men weren't as observant/obsessive over the minutia of fit?
 

dieworkwear

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So then would you say that even with MTM being the norm, men weren't as observant/obsessive over the minutia of fit?
For any historical period, I think most people -- men and women -- didn't care about their clothes in the way that we do. But I also think the standards for the making and wearing of tailored clothing have mostly declined.
 

clee1982

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more rtw 4x1 DB, no idea about the fit though, feels DB can’t be “loose”, especially if lapel is wide

 

GeneralEmployer

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Had me up until the part about white men must lead the way...I for one prefer to STEAL genius reinterpretations of the Ivy-Style form other cultures, like a REAL WHITE PERSON1111. While Van Jacket & Co. has long gone the way of the dodo, there's plenty of great little niche shops throughout nihon that are turning out some serious high-quality stuff, which is better than the old stuff, because that shit was for people with overly broad builds, and let's face it, the construction was shite,

I MEAN WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH PEOPLE ON OTHER FORUMS, RITE/// WHY ARE WE SF'ERS THE ONLY NORMIES IN THIS SPACE//////

1602830608944.png
 

smittycl

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Catching up on The Rake. Just finished the issue with Lewis Hamilton, the Formula One driver, on the cover. I’m beginning to change my opinion on this mag. Not sure if it’s my Covid-boredom but this mag seems a bit more interesting than it used to be and with better writing. Good for them!
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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Bit of a weird question, but does anyone happen to have good style inspiration photos of men wearing the Shaker stitch? Shaker sweaters are made with as a specific kind of stitch like this (this is a women's sweater, but it gives you an idea of what I mean)

502426_0_46.jpeg
 

UrbanComposition

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Man, those were really popular in the Northeast in the 90s. In cotton they are super comfortable, bag easily, and have great slouch. But I haven’t seen them in a long time. Maybe reach out to oxfordclothbuttondown on IG? Almost positive he has more experience with these than I do.
 

aj805

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As temps drop, has anyone made plans for cold-weather masks?

Perhaps made of cable-knit or Donegal?
 

clee1982

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would just put whatever you use to put over the mask I would say
 

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