Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Aug 4, 2012.
RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's pretty clear that the lounge suit, which was the uniform for essentially *all* working men for a short period of time, is becoming something else. For a lot of men, it already occupies the same space as a dinner jacket - special occasion clothing. For some, it's as antiquated as morning dress - I'm betting that only a very small minority of men can tell you what are the differences between informal and formal morning dress (the information is here - I've discussed this several times, and I think that Doc Holliday and Manton have as well, among others), because morning dress is, for all intents and purposes, irrelevant in 2012 as anything other than a costume.
Since so few men really have to wear a suit to work, or to be considered "properly dressed', designers can play with it a lot more. A lot of designers through the years, from Yamamoto to Armani to Gianfranco Ferre, have tried to redefine the suit. Streetwear usually has less lofty, less coherent, goals. The attitude is much more playful, generally, adding alien details, changing the proportions in often haphazard ways, mixing and matching with other styles and inspirations, etc... I think that all the camo linings, pairing "suit" jackets with camo pants, etc... are just a manifestation of a new way of looking at the suit.
did you get your felt boots? you stopped the convo and tbh I didn't follow then.
no. they are excellent.
I know this is off topic, but yesterday I went shopping with a female friend and I wanted to make a pocket square out of every dress she tried on. I think I need a psychiatrist...
I never understood the style/trend of wearing pants too short and/or jacket too tight. Where I come from short pants were called "high waters" and a major no-no. Not sure why some purposely want to wear them that way. I do understand some like a slight break and some pants look fine with no break, but for the pants to not even come to the top of the shoe looks ridiculous imo.
It's for aqua alta you see.
I'll admit some of my pants can creep up a bit. It's something that I've been working with my tailor on. I default to a very slight (or often no) break. I don't have the tallest legs and the absence of a break makes my legs look a bit longer. It also aids a cleaner line on the pant. Unfortunately, when walking they often pull up a bit, making them look like flood pants. Again, something I'm trying to avoid with my pants moving forward.
The aesthetic that you are referring to is the shrunken or cropped fit. Shorter pants, jackets and sleeves and higher buttoning points with narrower lapels has a definite 1960s influence. At least from a mainstream point of view, this look's resurgence is likely traced directly to the popularity of Mad Men and Thom Browne in the mid 2000s. It's a look that somehow seems to work better for skinnier, lankier guys, which is strange because all of the characteristics of the look exaggerate their features and, therefore, should look terrible.
le perfect pents length. it is no easy feat. (feet?)
I actually like some of the military influences, be they on very MC styles (I like a lot of Borrelli mil jacket one of our members like to sport) or more streetwear or designer looks. I'm not big on camo though, it sorta gives off the whiff of military without going for what is really interesting in the style: military cuts and detailing. I've also been wearing an old pair of green/yellow Nikes and some Adidas Stan Smiths and watching streetwear styles more carefully, I guess 90s nostalgia is upon me.
"A jean jacket peeking out from under a pinstripe suit isn't the best choice for a morning meeting, but when you want to add a little panache—think a summer stroll on Via Montenapoleone—the contrast works."
GQ from what I've seen has been fixated on the short pants too. Although they may have done so due to the influences such as Mad Men, etc. But for whatever reason, it's just a bad look imo.
^^^jean jacket abomination is abominable.
Yes I'd love a nice summer stroll in Milan wearing many layers consisting of a wool suit and denim jacket as well as a shirt and tie.
It occurred to me a few years ago that although mannequins and models look nice in their stylish and plentiful combinations, they really make no account for real weather or heat. If you wore all of Ralph Lauren's summer gear in the window of one of his shops on a true summers day you'd faint about five minutes after leaving the house.
who the fuck writes these things. What world do they live in? jesus.
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