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MC General Chat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Aug 4, 2012.

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  1. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Comes from streetwear (as in street style not the SWD forums), it comes back then leaves every few yrs. Brands like Bape, Supreme, Goodenough etc. have been going at it since the 90s. Sometimes more menswearish or fashion/SW&D brands catch up. I dunno if it is such a trend right now but I guess bloggers and their love of rap + spazzatura got really into it and started lining their stupid blazers with stupid camo.
     
  2. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    New rule: No camo in town?
     
  3. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Some pictures of summer gun clubs that I think are decent.

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  4. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    sorry to say it, but I think jodhpur boots suck balls like no other. They can not be worn without looking awkward.
     
  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I've always been particularly interested in the Streetwear/Designer overlap (different parts of SW&D fall closer to one side or the other). Like Fuuma already stated, militaria has always been a major influence on streetwear. Actually, a good part of all menswear has had military influences and inspirations, but it's probably always been more pronounced and obvious in the streetwear inspired brands. Japanese brands like Undercover, A Bathing Ape, and Goodenough (Hiroshi Fujiwara's first brand), UK brands like Griffin, 6876, and Maharishi, and US brands like Stussy, have always had camo, M65 and M66's, etc... in their collections, as have "performance" brands like Stone Island, which, as far back as I can remember, has been co-opted by street culture in the UK.

    It is a trend right now. I guess that it fits the mood of the moment, which is one that I haven't seen for a while, which is classic menswear mixing with street culture. Hard to see how far things can go. I have theories on why we're seeing this, but they aren't really that well fleshed out, so you guys are all spared, for now.

    I'm personally not a fan, though I grew up wearing a lot of drab.
     
  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Nothing says summer like a cozy roll neck sweater, a good pair of boots and a nice cup of hot cocoa... :D
     
  7. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Yeah I get it, gdl. That fabric is an 8 oz H.Lesser made for Carlo Barbera and definitely a summer fabric. I would not wear it in fall and/or winter.
     
  8. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    Thanks for the great responses. I just feel like I've been seeing it more and more and more over the past few months - pocket squares, jackets, chinos at the mall, suits on blogs - I just saw some camo double monks on tumblr yesterday. Do you find that it becomes more popular based on any particular social factors? Do you think it's crossing over into tailored menswear is an attempt to appropriate 'classic' or 'traditional' values in a way somewhat similar to the appropriation of military constructs by streetwear?
     
  9. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    I addition to clashing somewhat with the outfit's otherwise summery vibes, I think those jodphurs would benefit from being a shade or two darker. They look tan, and I think chestnut would be a more harmonious match for the rest of the outfit.
     
  10. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    :laugh:
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It's pretty clear that the lounge suit, which was the uniform for essentially *all* working men for a short period of time, is becoming something else. For a lot of men, it already occupies the same space as a dinner jacket - special occasion clothing. For some, it's as antiquated as morning dress - I'm betting that only a very small minority of men can tell you what are the differences between informal and formal morning dress (the information is here - I've discussed this several times, and I think that Doc Holliday and Manton have as well, among others), because morning dress is, for all intents and purposes, irrelevant in 2012 as anything other than a costume.

    Since so few men really have to wear a suit to work, or to be considered "properly dressed', designers can play with it a lot more. A lot of designers through the years, from Yamamoto to Armani to Gianfranco Ferre, have tried to redefine the suit. Streetwear usually has less lofty, less coherent, goals. The attitude is much more playful, generally, adding alien details, changing the proportions in often haphazard ways, mixing and matching with other styles and inspirations, etc... I think that all the camo linings, pairing "suit" jackets with camo pants, etc... are just a manifestation of a new way of looking at the suit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  12. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    did you get your felt boots? you stopped the convo and tbh I didn't follow then.
     
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    no. they are excellent.
     
  14. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I know this is off topic, but yesterday I went shopping with a female friend and I wanted to make a pocket square out of every dress she tried on. I think I need a psychiatrist...
     
  15. RockyTop

    RockyTop Well-Known Member

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    I never understood the style/trend of wearing pants too short and/or jacket too tight. Where I come from short pants were called "high waters" and a major no-no. Not sure why some purposely want to wear them that way. I do understand some like a slight break and some pants look fine with no break, but for the pants to not even come to the top of the shoe looks ridiculous imo.

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  16. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    It's for aqua alta you see.
     
  17. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    I'll admit some of my pants can creep up a bit. It's something that I've been working with my tailor on. I default to a very slight (or often no) break. I don't have the tallest legs and the absence of a break makes my legs look a bit longer. It also aids a cleaner line on the pant. Unfortunately, when walking they often pull up a bit, making them look like flood pants. Again, something I'm trying to avoid with my pants moving forward.

    The aesthetic that you are referring to is the shrunken or cropped fit. Shorter pants, jackets and sleeves and higher buttoning points with narrower lapels has a definite 1960s influence. At least from a mainstream point of view, this look's resurgence is likely traced directly to the popularity of Mad Men and Thom Browne in the mid 2000s. It's a look that somehow seems to work better for skinnier, lankier guys, which is strange because all of the characteristics of the look exaggerate their features and, therefore, should look terrible.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    le perfect pents length. it is no easy feat. (feet?)



    (shameless pun)
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012
  19. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    I actually like some of the military influences, be they on very MC styles (I like a lot of Borrelli mil jacket one of our members like to sport) or more streetwear or designer looks. I'm not big on camo though, it sorta gives off the whiff of military without going for what is really interesting in the style: military cuts and detailing. I've also been wearing an old pair of green/yellow Nikes and some Adidas Stan Smiths and watching streetwear styles more carefully, I guess 90s nostalgia is upon me.

    http://www.theonion.com/articles/us-dept-of-retro-warns-we-may-be-running-out-of-pa,873/
     

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