Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dieworkwear, Aug 4, 2012.
Still think she has cut the coat a bit too short for him though.
Mina's default is to cut a jacket on the short side. It's a feature, not a bug. And a feature you can remove if you like if it looks too short at fittings. Anyway, there are plenty of pictures to pore over in the NsM thread for those interested.
I gathered that from all the fuss originally. Steed / Mina are apples and oranges and both nice in their own respects but for Vox's physique/context the steed is impeccable in my eyes.
The Steed looks great too. I certainly didn't mean to imply that the comparison was "good" to "bad", just apples to oranges, as you say.
hmmm. I don't think I'd remember the takeover. It still seems pretty trad-y to me but I wouldn't know.
Random thought: Is there any picture of Ed wearing the infamous khakis + black longwings?
Black and tan is something easily written off but the contrast can be done well I think. Well, Will seems to think so anyway.
It was a bit late in the summer, but a couple of weeks ago I received my first unlined fresco suit, from Lee Baron. I've only worn it a few times in this very high heat and humidity, and have been surprised by how well it wears. It's not uncomfortable if all I'm doing is walking in the sun (for not too long). This is different from any jacket or suit I've ever worn in the summer, which make me sweaty, quickly. Of course it's never very comfortable to be wearing suits in this weather, but fresco really is not bad.
J Press sells a lot more, wilder styles in Japan than they do in the US. I recently saw a guy in a polo shirt with a popped collar that a loud "J Press" underneath. I wish I understood exactly how much editorial control Japan has over the US stores, because I know it must be there, but they seem very different.
The bespoke crowd always points to fresco as the ideal wool summer fabric. Makes sense since it has a looser weave.
I recently picked up a half lined Zegna jacket with this 100% wool fabric. It was incredible in the 95 degree heat. Very airy.
Does the fabric on this tuxedo look tacky?
At the risk of being repetitive, these are really short for you. Did you go through several rounds of commissions w Mina or were these ordered at the same time ?
That's all tans/browns as Will points out. The pic wasn't part of his black & tan thoughts
The velvet jacket, if I had it to do over again, I think I would make a bit longer. You of course get to look at it during the fittings, etc., but it's hard to get the complete sense until you see the jacket for a while. But also I think that picture makes it look like it's shorter than it actually is because there's something behind me that makes it look like the fork in my pants is a lot lower than it actually is. I like the jacket to end a little bit below the fork in my pants - this one ends at or just slightly below the pants fork, depending on what pants I'm wearing and where they're sitting at the moment. But if the velvet jacket is shorter than this jacket:
it's not by more than a half an inch. With respect to my hands, they both end between the two knuckles of my thumb. Anyway, I think there's a lot that goes into a jacket looking short besides the length, like the button stance, how open the skirt is, etc...
Regarding the DB, I don't think I'd change the length at all. I might move the buttoning point up a tad so that it's less "top heavy".
Oh, and to your other question - I ordered the blue wool jacket first (also linked in earlier post) and then ordered the velvet and the linen DB at the same time IIRC. The SB jackets I have on order now are to be a tad longer.
Just for some more points of reference for those that might be making similar decisions...the green check jacket linked in my earlier post is a little longer, and this jacket is a bit longer still:
The sum total between the shortest and longest of these jackets is maybe 1"-1.5" in BOC measurement, but I can check to be sure when I get home.
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