Mayfair man: from Will's blog

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by srivats, Dec 9, 2009.

  1. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Did you guys see this article on Will's blog? What does SF think of this suit?

    [​IMG]
     
  2. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Interesting to see but wouldn't want to wear it. Like the covered buttons, don't care for the shape of the fronts or the overall silhouette. Maybe it's just the way he's standing, but the waist shaping doesn't flatter. Maybe the chest isn't full enough? Makes him look frail. I wonder if the quarters would close entirely if he were standing still and upright, possibly remedying my concern about the waist but giving the coat a Nehru effect.

    It's a little bit Steed, but not Steedly enough.
     
  3. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    ^ In his defense, look at the sleeves - barely any creasing at all. The suit is probably new (or fresh from a pressing) and probably will look better with more wear time.

    +1 to your observations about the quarters. That was the first thing that caught my eye.

    What did you think about the (satin?) tie?
     
  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Likes Received:
    1,088
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    Steed sometimes wore satin ties, often with a pearl tie tack. (Think a light blue with the contrasting pearl.) I like them on him, but the matching square here kills it for me. The B&W photo makes the tie above look silver, which I doubt it was and wouldn't like. But I am more open to other colors. Satin's at its best when peeking out above a vest, I think. A little goes a long way.

    Satin ties must have been a trend back in the day. Maybe someone who was around then can chime in.

    What's your overall verdict, Sri?
     
  5. July

    July Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 28, 2008
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Everything about that suit is clean. Perhaps at the risk of looking too.. delicate. Not really loving the quarters either.
     
  6. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

    Messages:
    11,151
    Likes Received:
    1,567
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2008
    The tight hips on the coat bother me more than anything. Ick.
     
  7. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    What's your overall verdict, Sri?

    Lot of positives in that suit, to my eyes. Nice high armholes and a great sleeve pitch (no divots!), the cut is very military yet shaped, excellent button stance (really like the 3 buttons) and the lapel size look pleasing to my eyes. I think the quarters probably will stay closed when he is standing normally, which indicates that he wanted the jacket cut that way specifically. The besom pockets look interesting in how much farther they are from the buttons.

    Overall, I like the outfit quite a bit except maybe for the tie ... too shiny for what is probably a worsted wool fabric. He wears the suit well, imo. I wish this pic were in color.

    I am trying to think how the jacket would look with Parker's WW Chan-like quarters.
     
  8. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,456
    Likes Received:
    294
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
  9. sfnapolifan

    sfnapolifan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2009
    Divots are not a function of sleeve pitch... [​IMG]

    really depends on the divot. some are overextension of shoulders without enough sleeve fullness. other times it's the wrong sleeve pitch.
     
  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,447
    Likes Received:
    864
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    ......look at the sleeves - barely any creasing at all. The suit is probably new (or fresh from a pressing) and probably will look better with more wear time.

    Without a doubt, this is a professional model in a fashion photograph. As the text states this picture was taken for the IWS (International Wool Secretariat) with the aim to promote the use of wool.

    At that time IWS as well as the producers of Polyester fibre (then seen as the great white hope) would commission tailors and designers to work with their materials and come up with (somewhat unconventional) designs which showed the respective materials at their best.

    Some years back, I did come across the program (presented during the Cologne men's fashion fair) of a show from the early 60s, organized by the chemical firm Hoechst to promote their polyester fibre "Trevira". There were a number of famous designers of the time (I remember Hardy Amies and Pierre Cardin) who had designs in that particular show.

    The suit in the photograph would have been fitted on that particular male model, but the designer/tailor would have had freedom to design what he thought might a look that would point into the future.
     
  11. srivats

    srivats Senior member

    Messages:
    3,907
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    ^ Good points there, bengal!

    If he is indeed a model, I'd say the designers picked an extremely good one.
     
  12. 0b5cur1ty

    0b5cur1ty Senior member

    Messages:
    2,004
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2008
    Location:
    Netherlands
    I think the suit looks wonderful. It has such a clean, defined, shape and the fit is great. While I don't normally like very closed quarters, here they are clearly intentional and just seem to work. The only thing that gives me pause for thought is the covered buttons; I just can't seem to get my head round those things...
     
  13. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

    Messages:
    1,217
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2008
    Location:
    DC
    Steed sometimes wore satin ties, often with a pearl tie tack. (Think a light blue with the contrasting pearl.) I like them on him, but the matching square here kills it for me. The B&W photo makes the tie above look silver, which I doubt it was and wouldn't like. But I am more open to other colors. Satin's at its best when peeking out above a vest, I think. A little goes a long way.

    Satin ties must have been a trend back in the day. Maybe someone who was around then can chime in.

    What's your overall verdict, Sri?


    Yes. I hate matching squares. The satin tie didn't offend me on first glance, but now that its been called out I think its meh. I also don't know what to think of the covered buttons; I wouldn't wear them but somehow he pulls them off OK...

    Everything about that suit is clean. Perhaps at the risk of looking too.. delicate. Not really loving the quarters either.

    Yes. When I saw the picture on ASW my first reaction was "ugly quarters." It is clean, though, and I appreciate that.

    The tight hips on the coat bother me more than anything. Ick.

    +1. I'd like to see more flair to the skirt. I bet you anything that coat is ventless; the "tight hips" you speak of is exactly why I hate ventless coats, not simply b/c they lack vents.

    Lot of positives in that suit, to my eyes. Nice high armholes and a great sleeve pitch (no divots!), the cut is very military yet shaped, excellent button stance (really like the 3 buttons) and the lapel size look pleasing to my eyes. I think the quarters probably will stay closed when he is standing normally, which indicates that he wanted the jacket cut that way specifically. The besom pockets look interesting in how much farther they are from the buttons.

    Overall, I like the outfit quite a bit except maybe for the tie ... too shiny for what is probably a worsted wool fabric. He wears the suit well, imo. I wish this pic were in color.

    I am trying to think how the jacket would look with Parker's WW Chan-like quarters.


    And ultimately, after all of the fora-esque nit picking, I think the overall effect is superb. Like the style/detailing or not, there is no argument that the fit is excellent and appropriate for that cut. It is pictures like this that snap me back to reality sometimes when I start to get too picky about fit and detailing. We mustn't forget that the overall effect is of paramount importance.
     
  14. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

    Messages:
    5,803
    Likes Received:
    615
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    I think it makes him look like a spiv.
     
  15. rioni

    rioni Senior member

    Messages:
    3,339
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2007
    Location:
    Generica
    Spiv is a British word for a particular kind of petty criminal, who deals in stolen or black market goods of questionable authenticity, especially a slickly-dressed man offering goods at bargain prices. The goods are generally not what they seem or have been obtained illegally. It was particularly used during the Second World War and in the Post-War rationing period for black-market dealers.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by