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Matching textures with tweed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Metlin, Jan 19, 2012.

  1. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    Vox's comment above brings to mind a question I've had for some time now -- how does one match textures with tweed?

    With most tweed jackets, I can't help feeling that the shirt's texture feels out of place with the tweed jacket and wool trousers. I seem to have less of a problem with the trousers, but most shirt fabrics seem to be at odds with the "rough" look and feel of a tweed jacket.

    I looked to WAYWRN and the Tweed Appreciation Thread for inspiration. But even there, I felt that while a few looks were great, there were a good many where the shirt textures didn't seem to work well with the tweeds at all. Am I alone in feeling this way?

    Does anyone have any thoughts on what kind of materials/textures I should be looking for? Are there some shirt fabrics that work better than others? And pictures would be greatly appreciated! :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012


  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Oxford cloth and chambray are standard, I thought?
     


  3. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    That makes sense, and I usually use OCBD shirts with my tweeds. But I almost feel that some (e.g. BB's OBCDs) feel too "polished" against the rougher tweeds. I have not tried chambray, perhaps I should.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    No, chambray is not "standard" with tweed. I think this hits on Vox's eloquent tirade that nobody here knows what they're doing.

    Chambray dress shirts, for whatever their merits, are vastly more popular now than they were five or fifty years ago. They are a trend, not an indispensable wardrobe item like the OCBD. One would only get that impression by living in WAYWRN la-la land.

    When pairing shirt textures to tweed, you need not be so particular about the shirt and concern yourself much more with your tie. What's important is how all the constituent parts harmonize.

    I typically wear a blue poplin, spread collar shirt with my tweed and tweed-ish jackets. Then, I pick a rougher textured tie to finish it off.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Because they're more popular now than 5 years ago they don't go well with tweed? Sorry I should have chosen a better word than "standard", which I suppose can imply "traditional"...but anyway back to the original point...conditional on choosing apt neckwear, or no neckwear at all, what is the opinion of those who know what they're doing on the pairing of chambray and tweed?

    -someone who doesn't know what they're doing
     


  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It's not just that chambray shirts are more popular now--they have seen a meteoric rise from obscurity to absolute fashionability. That doesn't mean chambray doesn't look good with tweed, just that anyone thinking of dressing in the classic idiom should hesitate before thinking of it as a staple.
     


  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    OK - I'm not trying to argue for every man owning a chambray shirt, just trying to suggest fabrics that could go well with tweed. FWIW, I do not own anything in chambray, so again, not trying to be a chambray evangelist.

    What are opinions on tattersalls and tweeds? I do not have any tattersalls either but I was considering including one in my next shirt order to be worn with tweedy jackets.
     


  8. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Tattersall is good.

    As for shirt texture, contrast! Smooth patterned shirts are ideal, perhaps with a more textured tie. If everything in the ensemble is screaming to be noticed, it turns into a hot mess. Something has to be a supporting player in terms of texture just like something has to be a supporting player in pattern. They don't have to be the same pieces. A solid grenadine or knit tie can be a supporting piece in regards to color, but an active one with texture. A fairly smooth tattersall shirt can be active in pattern but passive with texture.

    Pinpoint oxfords are the roughest I would ever go, unless I was going for a casual look sans tie.
     


  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Tattersalls 'n' tweed are kith 'n' kin.

    I mostly wear buttondowns with tweed, both poplin and OC. Tattersall a close second.

    There's something to be said for a plain white shirt with moderate spread collar and a plain dark tie, for that '60s insouciance.
     


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