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Mariano Rubinacci - color and complexion - a case study

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mmkn, May 12, 2012.

  1. mmkn

    mmkn Well-Known Member

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    The great Rubinacci has pink beige skin with high contrast eyes and hair, and so cool colors brings forth his face while warm colors drown it.

    More specifically, cool colors that are vivid, intense icy, and true (balance of blue, yellow, black, and white) rather than cool colors that are muted, pastel, or have blue/rose/gray undertones in them . . .

    Of great importance is the color next to one's face, in this case the jacket color . . .

    Yes (I see the man on first impression) . . .

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    No (I see the jacket first, and the color drowns out his face) . . .

    From the latest Rake . . .

    [​IMG]


    The color above (golden white/ecru/cream, but not clear-yellowed white) would better bring out someone's face who has golden peach undertones and high hair/eyes contrast to to their face. For example . . .

    [​IMG]


    Also no . . . .

    [​IMG]


    - M
     
  2. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Well-Known Member

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    This will be a really great thread for those who wear Rubinacci to pull up a chair, grab a beer, and hang out for awhile.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    Something about how he ties his ties/how they look bloated in the middle and thinner up top and towards the bottom is off-putting.
     
  4. JakeLA

    JakeLA Well-Known Member

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    I agree that the yellow man with the yellow teeth shouldn't wear a yellow shirt, a yellow tie, and a yellow jacket while standing in front of a yellow wall.
     
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  5. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    I wonder... if one were to find the yellow man's pants in a thrift store, would they have yellow stains? Is Reevolving around to help?
     
  6. TheTukker

    TheTukker Well-Known Member

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  7. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    The wild and the pure.
    A bespoke zip front vest would help.
     
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  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Aargh - you beat me to it!
     
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  9. srivats

    srivats Well-Known Member

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    mmkn, while your analysis has some merit, I think that (digital) photos themselves distort the picture somewhat. None of the photos you posted above are what I'd consider showing colors anywhere close to true, be it of the man or of the clothes.

    While the elder R. gent has on occasion shown to be wearing colors that do not suit him well, I am sure that he'd look great in real life most of the time.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2012
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  10. mmkn

    mmkn Well-Known Member

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    ^ The thread was a response to the ad below in the latest Rake.

    [​IMG]

    I am not saying he couldn't wear light color to signify spring and summer, just not that golden cream color.

    A soft pure white would have worked better, like the soft white in his pocket square. The shirt, tie, and trousers colors are OK as well.

    The Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani ads at the beginning of this Rake issue, well, those models had make up and photoshop done to them. Women have the luxury of changing their make up to go with whatever they are wearing. For men it is better to get clothes in colors that complement their complexion in the first place.

    As is, many older men (and younger men who emulate "classic dressing") have imprinted the color choices of the Apparel Arts artists. If one looks closely, the artists usually painted the complexion of the wearer to go with what they were wearing.

    Here is the RL ad at the beginning of the issue with a similar color jacket and trousers. Note the model with make up making his skin with golden tones, in addition to his high contrast eyes and hair.

    Looks much better, I see the man.

    [​IMG]

    - M
     
  11. texas_jack

    texas_jack Well-Known Member

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    It's hard to say what looks good in real life from photos on a computer
     
  12. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Well-Known Member

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    C Jackson's principles outlined in Color For Men simply this.
    Yellow teeth guy is clearly a contrast complexion and should be wearing cool colors. He'd look good in simple black and white.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2012
  13. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    +1

    I've seen him in the first suit and it isn't really that color.
     
  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    The wild and the pure.
    
    Do you see the jacket or the person?
     
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  15. mmkn

    mmkn Well-Known Member

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    The only requirement for natural overcast day lighting is when looking at someone's complexion to determine what it looks like.

    Other than that, as indoor lighting or flash lighting changes both the subject's complexion and their clothes in the same way, it is possible through photographs to determine whether someone is wearing something that brings them forth or washes them out.

    - M
     
  16. davesmith

    davesmith Well-Known Member

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    I'll have what the mannequin is wearing.
     
  17. ctp120

    ctp120 Well-Known Member

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    How's this for complementary spring fabric and skin tone? I don't see the man, but fwiw, neither do I see the gluteal folds . . .

    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    I saw a person wearing a jacket.

    I am a philistine.
     
  19. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Well-Known Member

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    That isn't natural overcast day lighting though. The colors have been altered. The blue in the suit is more electric and less navy than IRL (if I could possibly be more imprecise, I would).

    But maybe you're experienced enough in the dark art of color theory to compensate for that.

    Like I said, I struggle to dehumanize jacket wearers so I'm not entitled to an opinion.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2012
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  20. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Well-Known Member

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    I apologize if this was done earlier in this thread, but it seems to me that Yellow Man is not as tonally balanced as OP suggests.

    Take a look and see if you agree.

    Yellow Man 1:

    [​IMG]


    Yellow Man 2 (balanced with biker mustache and cute, leporidae overbite):

    [​IMG]

    You may click the examples to see a larger size if you wish.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2012
    2 people like this.

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